Howdy, picking up a 92 740 wagon with 204K in the morning. It drives very well and I'm very excited to be getting another Volvo. My previous 3 have been 240s. Anything much different mechanically between a 240 and 740?

There is a check engine light on which the previous owner attributes to air/fuel mixture or fuel filter, performance only changes when tank is low. He replaced the in-tank prepump with an aftermarket brand, but hasn't done the fuel filter. Any other ideas? He tracks his fuel mileage and it is about 20 in town, and as stated previously, it is a good strong runner.

Thanks!

Once you pull the codes and report it back here, reset by disconnecting the battery for about 10-15 sec. Drive it and see if the code comes back. I never trust a PO to either know the truth or share it with me if they do.

The drivetrain is identical to a same year 240. The fuel injection/ignition system could be different...look for a square coil. Suspension is "simpler" and the fuses much less problematic. There is more room in the engine bay and the AC should be the copy of the GM Harrison unit (I think) which means it works.

If you notice an issue that matches the PO's complaint of stumbling, stalling or difficulty with hot starts when under 1/4 tank AND you have a Bosch 2-pump system, then he either did not replace the in-tank pump or he botched the job...assuming it is not one of the pumps Art B had noted whose lifespan can be measured in yards instead of tens of thousands of miles.

Thanks for the info, found the FAQ and read the codes. 2-4-1 which appear to be EGR related.

The PO said he replaced the pre-pump with an aftermarket kind, so it would not surprise me if it were bad. I had similar symptoms in my 240 and it was a perforated plastic pickup hose between the filter and the pump. Worked fine until fuel level got low, then it started pulling in air with the gas.

Took it to emissions today after clearing the code and passed with no problems: 55 HC loaded (220 loaded standard), 33 idle (same 220 standard), and CO was 0.43 loaded, idle was 0.07 with 1.2 loaded standard for both . Numbers look great to me.

The seats and door panels are rough, but dash is crack free and the manual sunroof works great. AC is not hooked up currently, PO said he took the belt off because of a squeal. So I don't know if the compressor is good or not, but it sounds like the AC is actually relatively easy to get worked on if it is standard GM (the 240 was nearly impossible to get somebody to look at.)

The only thing it really needs are new tires and the interior cosmetics ....

My 1990 760 turbo literally had "Harrison" stamped on some of the parts but that was a weird transition model. Still used a Sankyo or Sayden compressor (probably spelling those wrong) instead of the tried and true Delco unit.

Since you mentioned EGR I am assuming you have a Bosch fuel injection unit.

There is a thread about in here about my beater 240 that passed with amazing numbers despite not being the best running Volvo I have driven by a long shot.

I am not a fan of how the 7/9 series cars drive but that is a personal preference thing. If I ever start working on the road again a 940 turbo wagon will probably be my steed of choice so I can tow a Casita or similar small travel trailer from job to job.

Loving the 740 ... today replaced cap, rotor, wires and plugs and did an oil change (Volvo spark plugs, Bougicord wires and Bosch cap and rotor and Mann filters). Last night seafoamed it and checked the flame trap.

I am amazed at how smooth running and driving these 20+ year old cars are (all three of my 240s (an 84, 86 and 89) ran well as well).

Still have the check engine light, need to read the codes again, then clear them and see if the work I did today keeps it away.

Seats, you can put the covers and cushions from a junker passenger side onto the driver's side seat frame. Easier to find good pass sides.
9 series seats will swap in also. And, I have just been told that 850 seat covers and cushions will swap onto the frames, but I have not done this myself.

Air, if you drain the compressor oil, swap in a matching but later dryer from an R134 car like a 93, put in ester oil, vacuum and fill with R134 it'll work.

You can put in the big fuel tank from the later cars, see John Sargent's excellent writeup recently.

I found good rear and passenger seats at the pick and pull, and a better drivers side. If I can find a god seat bottom ill be good for seats, otherwise found an upholstery shop that will redo the seat bottom with vinyl for $80. Would rather keep it leather, but still cheaper than good seat covers.

Cleared the 2-4-1 code and replaced two vacuum line fittings on the EGR, both ends had cracks and so far, no codes have come back.

Next up is the timing belt, last done at 158k in 12-08. Car has 204k now.

Thanks!

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