The majority of the power window issue threads i've seen on here have to do with a faulty switch (window goes down but not up), I haven't found a thread that deals with my current issue.

- All windows work with their local switch
- Driver switch operates all but rear passenger

I've swapped out the switch at the driver with a known good one, but the problem remains. Since the switch at the door works just fine, I've narrowed it down to the wiring from the driver switch to the right rear window.

If you can think of something else, let me know. If you agree with my assessment, whats the best way to troubleshoot this? Check for juice at the rear switch from drivers side?

Thanks in advance yall

I have fixed these a dozen times and I still like to see Art's excellent photos!

Hawk

Thanks Hawk,

That camera has now survived 11 years in my toolbox. Here are a few more.

























--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Q. What separates "60 Minutes," on CBS from every other TV
show?
A. No theme song.

i suggest you peel back the rubber accordion boot between the front drivers door and the frame and look for and broken wires.

in my experience this the first place took once the integrity of the switch has been verified to be good.

I think you are saying you're aware the switch in the front has to be good for the switch in the back to work. This is true, but from a logical standpoint, the switch in the back uses different contacts in the front switch than does the front switch. Sounds like gobbledygook I know -- that's why a wiring diagram makes it all clear.

So, though might not be, it is most likely to be the switch in the front. If it's gonna be a wire, I'll bet on a red one.

electrical

harness routing


--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Families are like fudge...mostly sweet, with a few nuts.

Is it common that the wire harness wears out? I've not had nearly any other electrical issues in the car, I will check with a different switch (after cleaning contacts of course). Seeing how the harness isn't subject to much back and forth motion, I'll check the door accordion pieces where the wiring travels and see if there are any splits.

Thanks!

I would do the switches like Art says. I did have a series of wires broken in my `91 inside the drivers door accordion. If you do need to get inside the accordion, slit it along the bottom so water can drain out the the now compromised accordion. Of course, if you are really ambitious you can take the door off to not slit it.

I think what the OP is saying is, he feels the switch has been eliminated by his substitution with a spare.

What I am saying, is if the symptoms are being reported accurately, the wiring in the door jamb is most assuredly not the problem. That wiring would cause a different combination of symptoms.

So, the approach to take the door jamb wiring apart and look at it is useful, in that it may be ready to go (pull hard on the wires and they'll snap), but for a strict symptom-cause diagnosis, the jamb wiring has been ruled out.

What might be easy, for the OP, is to swap right rear and left rear switches in the armrest console up front. See if the symptom moves to the other door. In doing that, the one red wire that could cause the reported symptom is easily inspected. I was checking back here to see if we heard again from the OP, given Saturday is usually a day for action following the weekday on-line speculation sessions.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Q. Most boat owners name their boats. What is the most popular boat name requested?

A. Obsession

No, that one doesn't wear out, that I've heard. None of the wires that get bent (in the door jamb) could contribute to your symptom. The only wire would be that short red one that ties the two common poles of the rear two switches in the front passenger switch console. If you're the first one in there, isn't likely. More likely, I think, is the switch contact, even though you've tried two of them.




--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Laughing is good exercise. It's like jogging on the inside..