I was just wondering if anyone has tried this before... When removeing the front struts for cartridge replacements, would be cutting off the bracket that holds the brake lines to the strut and then tack welding it back on, make it any easier to remove the struts without having to interfer with the lines and possible brake one.

Just a thought and since I will be doing this job tomorrow I thought I would ask.
Judd

I've cut a small section out of the bracket where the brake line passes through. Turning the "O" hole into a "C" hole that allows the thinner brake line to slip out.
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont.

I've been there many times and can tell you that this is a poor plan. The heat from the welding process will ruin the lines, more than likely. What I like to do is break off the tack weld on the bracket, do the strut job, then weld a small bolt to the tube. Then, I drill a hole in the bracket, fasten it to the tube bolt with a stop nut and locking washer, et voila. Makes every successive job simpler and faster too. Elegant? No. Effective? Absolutely.

Beautiful/ I like it!

There is no need to mess with line bracket on the strut tube.

Just follow the Bentley instructions and unbolt the bracket holding the lines to the inner fender. That will allow plenty of line slack to tip the strut top out of the wheel well.




--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

I'm with Lucid. Take a look at this:

https://sites.google.com/site/mdmet68/home/volvo-240-strut-notes

It might be too late to help you. But it offers some of my lessons learned in this procedure.

For the fun of Volvos,
Mike
--
'92 245DL, '90 760 GLT

Thanks for the link! I will see if I can acquire a new gland nut before the job. I have upper strut mounts from IPD and although I did not get new bump rubber I will hope the old is okay.

I did pick up the lower spring set just in case I find they are too rusted.

Thanks
for the help.
Judd

Okay Ill try that too. thanks for the thought.

I agree with Lucid, don't remove the strut assembly. Just pull it out from under the wheel well, balance the bottom on a small trolley or floor jack and put a strong rope around the assembly and temporarily fasten (with slack) to the end of the sway bar. Spray all fasteners with Pblaster (gland nut, suspension bolts, etc.) several times a day each day before the job.

Travis

Well, that method works great if you don't need to put the tube assembly in your bench vice, which has happened for me precisely zero times in fifteen years of working on Volvos. The thing the manuals don't assume is elapsed time, AKA corrosion. If you can tip out the tube and pop out the strut from your diaper-wiped trailer queen show car, go to town. If you do things to your car such as drive it, you might want to have the welder handy. Just my two cents.