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Hi. I hit a large truck with a protruding trailer hitch. Bent the front bummer into a giant V. Both head lights shot, sheet metal between front fenders tangled up. Bumper shocks bent enough to tear the metal tube/bracket. After reading several helpful posts here I managed to get every thing off the car.
My question is this:
My measurement between inner bumper support holes is 29 1/2in. not the 30in. normal measurement. The crossmember below the radiator was pushed in. Can I fix this, do I need to? Is that 1/2 in. going to make it impossible?
Any thoughts would be appreciated. Can't afford a body shop, I am carrying liability insurance only.
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I'd rent a cut torch locally, and remove the cross member that way-
the jack is a good idea, but can you tell where the frame is bent?
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All measurements are equal side to side under the car. In the engine bay, all measurements match my non running '86. It appears that just the bumper attachment, drivers side is pulled in 1/2in. Obvious only through measurement, no kinks in it. Radiator support/lower cross member is bent in (see picture). The rubber support for radiator bottom were torn off.
I just discovered that hydraulic jacks don't work hanging sideways:). Tried volvo jack but it slips off when pressure applied. I can't get the clamps to hold it.
Should I mention I'm a 50 plus woman, about 105lbs. soaking wet. Just to explain why some of the more physical aspects are difficult. Not as strong as I used to be. More stubborn though, and that is helping.
Was trying to avoid the drilling out of the cross member, here and at PNP. Seems as though I better get on it. Thank you for your replies.
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All things considered- I would suggest that you askt he people at the pnp cut the member off for you, and I am sure the welder who will come to your house has can cut the welds on the old one, take it out, and weld the new one in- saving you much sweat and tears.
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I'm about ready for the welding...I just tried the pipe for the bumper support, bent the pipe. I've been pounding the cross member, flattened it a bit but the channel is still squeezed together.
Are there more than the 4 spot welds on each side? Need to try that before I give up. All attempts to avoid that have taken more time than just doing it would have. I hope.....
appreciate the ideas. Thank's
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The jack might be low on fluid. But that's a moot point if the 1/2" movement is all on the the driver's side. I was thinking (hoping) the damage was sort of equal on each side. Now I'm thinking heavy sledge, but at 105# that's not an option.
If the bumper shock was out of the way, maybe something like a 6' or 8' length of iron pipe could be slipped in that cavity for 10" or so and used as a lever, pulling to the left. Adding another body on the end would help. Or a come-along anchored to a tree ;-)
I'm afraid sawing the radiator support wouldn't work because it would still leave the old spot-welded ends behind. And I think that would interfere with fitting a replacement. Wish I had more to offer there.
EDIT: Maybe that support doesn't need replacing, with only 1/2" of error about 12"± in front of it. Maybe a jack pushing up at low point(s) while massaging the high points with a sledge hammer??? (nobody will see it later)
--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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I like your idea about a pipe, amazes me how much extra umph my 18" pipe adds when wrestling with the bolts-invaluable removing the large bumper bolts. Perhaps I could fashion some sort of tray to slip under the radiator.
Both sound doable. Really am dreading the hrs due at the PNP, an hours drive from here. My stubborn streak wants to nap through this one.
Will try the pipe and report back. Thank you
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Several years ago I repaired an '85 240 with similar damage.
I replaced the radiator support with a JY part by drilling out the spot welds (not easy with a battery drill in JY, but doable). You might be able to spread the 29 1/2" to 30" (or close enough) with a jack.
--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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Thank you for the responses. Air bag did not deploy, was a very low speed impact. Hitch hit the top of bumper, just below lip of he cross member.
I added a picture as "240 '90", sorry don't know how to attach it to this response.
Am trying to detach my crossmember to see if I can even do it before I try at PNP. Seems to be impossible at this point...I will try drilling the spot welds as suggested.
How would I go about using a jack to attempt straightening? Am willing to do all I can to get her back. No point in buying all the parts at PNP if frame is not repairable, by me. Really can't go the body shop route. Local guy was kind enough to come to the house and is willing to on site weld in a new cross member.
Love my car, peeling clear coat but lovely charcoal interior, minor dings only before this. Never stranded me in 10 yrs.
Thank you again.
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"How would I go about using a jack to attempt straightening?"
I can't visualize the 240 front anymore, but seems like you could use a jack horizontally to push the 2 "frame" sections apart the needed 1/2". Maybe put some kind of "bars" into the bumper shock holes for the jack to work against (assuming bumper shocks were removed).
If you can rig the jack in place, work slowly and use a hammer to "unlock" any buckles you might see. (maybe more on one side than the other) Work safely and slowly. If it seems too dangerous, back off and seek help.
--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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Frame machine operators are able to fix things like that very easily. There is a very cooperative guy in town who owns one and will work with us. Try to find a similar guy. Typically $200-400 in my limited experience.
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That's a tough call without seeing picutres. Did your air bag inflate?
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