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Folks,
While on hour 9 of a day-long trip across Texas, on my way up a hill, my 1992 745T started pinging, then almost completely lost power, within about 30 seconds.
Symptoms appeared to be overheating or loss of oil, but no indication of that anywhere. Restarting the next morning resulted in very rough idle and absolutely no ability to move in gear.
No apparently loss of the rubber turbo air hoses.
Hear a slight light clatter from the front, maybe timing belt?
In the past week, I've replaced the main fuel pump and the entire internal tank sending unit.
Otherwise this car has been running like a champ.
I've combed through the posts on this type of thing and was looking for some insight.
Thanks for any advice.
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Paul Despres, 1990 240 DL 205K, Austin, Texas
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Resolved. A head gasket failure between two cylinders, not between the cylinder and coolant channels.
Next step will to pull all this apart and get a gasket kit. I'll check on recommendations for that job.
Thanks for everyone's comments.
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Paul Despres, 1990 240 DL 205K, Austin, Texas
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Dang. Well the consensus is to Not get Felpro.
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If you don't know the history of your heater hoses or the heater control valve, change them when you pull the head. It will save you some grief.
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Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.
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My first thought was AMM, but after re-reading your post.
Harmonic balancer shifted.
Timing belt jumped time
Compression, head gasket.
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Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.
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I like all these except harmonic balancer shifted...how could that effect the running of the engine? It basically is just the pulley that turn the accessories. It could effect if the water pump is pumping but beyond that, no other connection with how the motor operates.
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You are right.
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Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.
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My first thought is power stage. My car pinged a bit but ran, then had some hesitations/cut-outs. Many others have had random cut-outs solved by replacing it. I re-did the paste and it was a lot better, but a new one may be in order for me.
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Thanks for the note. What is "power stage?" I've not heard this term before.
Paul
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Paul Despres, 1990 240 DL 205K, Austin, Texas
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Hello Paul:
I live in Austin and have several good power stages in my garage stashed away. If you want one, please email me at:
elprofeglo@gmail.com
good luck,
el Raidman
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Thanks all.
The OBD gives me a 1-2-1 code for fuel system representing bad MAF signal and no codes for ignition.
However, the AMM tests OK wit 0 ohms at terminal 1 and about 2.6 at terminal 3 when "running." Makes no difference in how bad it runs when the AMM is disconnected.
Is 2.6 a bad reading? The FAQ gives me a value of 2.3 as typical, but I don't have a feel for the threshold.
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Paul Despres, 1990 240 DL 205K, Austin, Texas
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Check the connector. The pins/connector have been know to back out and make bad contact.
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Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.
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These post/pins all appear to have good contact, clean, etc. I've gone through connectors on this car not too long ago.
The cam timing marks just fine and the timing belt looks good. Not too old. No oil in belt housing area, etc.
The car will not even start and run now, it is so bad off. Very strange symptoms. The car should at least start with a bad AMM I would think, but I may work to get a used AMM cheap if I can.
Thanks for any help or advice.
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Paul Despres, 1990 240 DL 205K, Austin, Texas
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look in the oil cap and have someone turn the key, see if the cam turns.
If it does, put a timing light on it and see if the marks are close, which would indicate if the belt jumped or not. If they are;
Then, do Bruce's 'start-run sequence'.
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Pulled the belt cover and checked the condition and the cam gear timing marks at TDC.
Everything there looks OK.
The car will not start now and it seems labored when it cranks.
This car did not have any indication or intermittent failures prior to shutting down. Cold condition does not affect it right now either.
Thanks.
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Paul Despres, 1990 240 DL 205K, Austin, Texas
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oops. I didn't read through to see solution found!
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The power stage is what triggers" the coil to induce high voltage in the cable leading to the distributor.
The power stage is fastened by 2 screws to an aluminum heat sink on a layer of heat-transferring "thermal paste". The heat sink is then mounted to the inner fender sheet metal.
The Volvo part # would be 1317810-8 or the superseding # 9438228-0.
This does not include the heat sink or thermal paste.
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Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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A couple options, use the FAQ's or simple search with a simple search term "power stage 740" will give you elevety-billion results. In short, it is a little white rectangle, about 2" x 3", attached to one of your fenders with thermal paste between it and the sheet metal. When it gets warm, which pretty much any time the car is running, it transfers it heat to the fender sheet metal through the thermal paste. Thermal paste washes away...no more heat transfer and intermittent ignition issues pop up.
I am not 100% sure where it would be on your car but the FAQ's will probably tell you.
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Check your spark plug wires. If they're aged, high underhood temps can cause the wires to finally crack and break down. I've seen it happen a few times with the same symptoms. In my case, As I pulled one wire, the wire came but separated from the connector...with little force.
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