Hi All,

Does anyone have a general notion of longevity for the S90 engine and drivetrain? A change of jobs 15 months ago has me putting about 25K highway miles on my 1997 annually. It has 152K on it now. I keep it reasonably well maintained and use synthetic motor oil and ATF. I plan to drive it into the ground, just wondering how far off that might be.

Thanks,
Bill

I just saw one in a junkyard with 225K on it before it got rear ended. It looked like a well maintained car before the accident. Be sure to do the timing belt (with bearings, idlers and water pump) every 70,000 miles.

I have 255k on a 1998 V90. The engine is in great shape, I use Mobile 1 synthetic. The transmission just recently began hunting for the right gear when hot in heavy traffic, feels too smooth when it shifts from 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd.

I am not sure if this is a tranny death sentence or something repairable. So I'd say the transmission is the one to watch.

My S90 manual calls for 10,000mi oil and filter change intervals if the car sees mostly highway driving and avoids trailer towing, extended idling, mostly short trips, etc. If it sees those latter conditions routinely, then 5000mi. (It holds nearly 6 litres/qts, compared to most cars' 4 litres.)

This contemplates conventional oils, as the book only mentions synthetic oil as the better choice instead of 15W40 for extreme loads or very high outside temperatures.

I use Mobil-1 5W30 year round and with ~90% highway use, I change it at the 10,000 mi interval, always with a Mann W917 filter. Mobil-1 "Euro Formula" 0W40 would be another option.

The timing belt change interval is 70k mi. in the manual, and on an official-looking Volvo sticker on the belt cover. Many recommend installing a new water pump at every second belt change, as it is driven by the belt and a pump seizure would probably break the belt.

The automatic trans is an AW 30/40 and was also used in the Lexus 400 of the day, a 4-litre, powerful V8. A fluid change every 50k mi or so wouldn't hurt, but the owner's manual does not even show how to check the level, much less specify a change interval.

If you still have the car's original radiator, it is on borrowed time.
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Bob: son's XC70, dtr's '94-940, my 81GL, 83-DL, 89-745(V8) and 98-S90. Also 77-MGB and some old motorcycles.

The S90/960 drive train is the same as a 940, more or less. The independent rear suspension is a beefy bastard on that year. Awesome like an early 1970s Mercedes design. I'll guess yours also has the Nivomat self-leveling system, yes? How's the differential fluid? The rear suspension bushings begin to go at your mileage.

The S90 front suspension front torque rod bushings are suspect to fail and should be inspected recurringly. Read the 700-900 FAQ for info. I hope and trust you have a service manual like a Volvo green service manual or a Haynes? Chilton I guess works in a pinch. You can find Volvo green service manuals on CD or DVD on ePray (eBay).

At 150,xxx miles, you may want to look at your strut mounts. How are the ball joints? A ball joint that fails at highway speeds can result in a spectacular end over end crash and roll of the vehicle.

Also consider brake fluid replacement every two years and no more. Use the brake fluid your S90 owner manual recommends. I'll guess your 1997 S90 uses those single piston sliding brake calipers front and rear. These also require some inspection and service recurringly.

You must replace the engine coolant on time. I'll guess every two years. The Porsche-Volvo white block B3204 engine is a light aluminum alloy with pressed in steel (cast iron alloy) cylinders. There may be no brass in the engine. Only ferrous based and aluminum based alloys. So, use the coolant the Volvo owner manual recommends. You may want to contact the Volvo stealership or go to the Volvo site directly and look up any TSBs (technical service bulletins) Volvo Cars has issues for your year, make, and model. It may mean some free service, possibly.

With care the later S90s can last for a very long time. With neglect they'll fail yet you'll witness the deterioration first hand.

As Uncle mcintorb states, don't ever neglect the timing components (timing belts, timing belt tensioners, and associated bits.

Also, inspect and clean your PCV flame trap. Ensure no vacuum leaks on the air intake side. At 15 years and 150,xxx miles, some vacuum lines may be getting a little brittle at the ends, at least, and may need some attention.

Just wish these came with manual transmission in North America. You can re-tune the engines to the European market spec and enjoy a very sprightly and well performing engine ala the largest I-6 and small V-8 turbo powered Mercedes and BMWs. The can travel at very high highway speeds very nicely.

The Porsche-Volvo B3204 is an awesome engine. However, I don't consider it the logical decedent of the Volvo B30. Also, it is not an all iron-alloy engine block and cylinder head the BMW still uses as with their I-6 engines. Still though, the B3204 deserves care and reverence.

Wow, thanks for the great write-up!

Yes, it does have the nivomat leveling system. I haven't checked the diff fluid myself, so I'll do that. I've been having a specialist shop handle timing belt related changes, and all driveline/suspension bushings as well. They just did the ball joints and front torsion bar bushings recently, and the timing belt on schedule about 10K ago. I've been doing most of the oil changes and ATF changes (both synthetic) myself.

I know the brake fluid has been refreshed recently, but I'll have to look into the last coolant refresh (the driver's guide says I shouldn't need to be changed).

I glad to hear that the drivetrain is so durable, thanks.

Bill

Thanks, all, that's good news. I do keep it regularly serviced, and the next passive flush with synthetic ATF is coming up soon.

Bill

Stick to the maintenance schedule and use synthetic oil and ATF and she'll be good for double the miles you have.

DEWFPO
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1998 S90 083,228 and 1995 964 154,100

I'm going look at this from a different angle. The 5 cylinder (as in the 850/S60/S70/V70) has proven to be a bulletproof engine with some folks at 400K+. It is basically the same engine as yours with a cylinder lopped off. I see no reason why the 6 cylinders can't last as long.

Let me add that the tranny should be flushed every 25-50k and keep up with those timing belt changes...:)

Change oil every 5000 miles, change timing belt AND tensioner on schedule, then check in again in another six years.

My understanding is that the I6 can still do significant high mileage...300-400K miles IF it is maintained. The I6 is an interference engine with a lot of stuff hanging on the timing belt...all of it has to stay in working order.