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My 240 DL 1989 just this weekend started giving me starting problems. This wknd started extremely roughly and actually died once at a stoplight. Now today, it wouldn't start at all. Thought it might be a dead fuel sensor, as my fuel gauge read above empty not by much(I feel it performs best with the least weight, aka I'm cheap).
So, put 1.5 gallons in the tank and tried again.
It still wouldn't start at first. After 3-4 more tries and pumping the gas pedal, it finally started, but extremely roughly again. It was wierd, too, it started kinda on the keys being rotated back to the initial position. Once started, it ran extremely roughly. I did not drive it anywhere as I didn't want to get stuck and have to call AAA.
That's the events today and here's the background info:
About a month ago:
-replaced the fuel filter(told it wasn't prob necessary but its been 3 yrs having car and I dont know last time it was done)
-Cleaned out air mass meter(gently) and air intake manifold and gasket
-new air filter
-replaced 02 sensor
Was running noticeably better after this work, more power and no hesitation upon starting(was hesitating for a month or two before doing the repairs)
I personally think its the fuel pump. I hope its the external one and not the internal one. External I could change pretty easily as doing fuel filter wasn't too bad. Don't ask why I didn't replace both at the same time.
Anyways, thanks for reading my long messsage and any assessments are appreciated.
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Hi,
For a quick check of things turn the key and verify that you hear the main pump make it's quick 2 second hiss under the car.
Start the car and listen at the fuel filler to make sure your tank pump is making it's steady humming sound.
I would guess that you have put too much stress on the pumps from running gas too low. Its important to remember that fuel lubricates the pumps.
Travis
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Will do. Also, Im going to do the little black box code check tonight.
Thanks
Marc
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Disconnect the electrical connector to the AMM (key off), if it starts and idles fine the AMM has failed.
Dan
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If the AMM is toast, what would you recommend? A rebuilt one?.... A used eBay one?.... If rebuilt, I see there are some generic cheaper ones, or the flat-out Bosch, that are quite pricy.
I believe my friend tried disconnecting the AMM and it still wouldn't start. I suspect the fuel pressure regulator (is there a test for that?) Or one of the fuel pumps.. But he's going to have to listen for that one..
Kind of an emergency situation, as his car won't start at all.
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If you are saving money, buy a used one from JY. I did that several years ago on my 744, still is fine.
Not sure though that it points to AMM, should start if it is disconnected.
Check the basics, got compression? got spark? got fuel (in the chamber!).
You can bypass pump relay to run pump, look it up in the archives.
Car will start with bad in tank pump, unless line is plugged, but then again, you smelled fuel at the FPR (which a failure of will not cause a no start).
--
245 Classic M47, 245SE AW IPD bars, 84 1/2 242 Tic IPDbars & Springs, 89 745 16v M46, IPD bars, 89 744 16v M46 IPDbars
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Thanks!... Is there any way to start the car with a bad fuel pressure regulator?... The car has to be moved from one side of the street to the other, while figuring this out. So, it's kind of an Emergency to figure it out... And know which parts to buy... Again, thanks for all the advice.
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Hi,
Go here and scroll down to Effects of FPR Failure:
http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/FuelSystem.htm#Fuel_Pressure_Regulator
On the AMM it is best to get a used Bosch unit-a used one on Ebay (with a return option if it doesn't work) is probably your safest bet.
Hope that helps,
Travis
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Thanks for the advice on the AMM. Thankfully it was only a spark plug issue and possibly the fuel pressure regulator , both of which are going to be replaced, soon. Glad I don't have to get a new AMM yet, I wasn't planning on shelling out that kinda dough right now.
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Glad you got things sorted out.
Pick up a used spare when you can (should be around $40/$50) you'll be glad you did when it comes time either to replace a failed AMM or switch out a suspected failure AMM during troubleshooting.
Travis
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What's the deal with keeping the pre-heat hose off? Some people swear by it, others say you need the hose only in Winter as long as your thermostat is working.. That every 2 years the thermostat should be replaced? Was the dead horse beaten a while ago with that topic, or what?
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Well, its not a bright picture right now, but I'm sorting thru the information.
Did the black box diagnostic check and only got a code for the #2 terminal. Unfortunately, it was 1-2-1 which I believe signifies air mass sensor failure or fault.
But, upon disconnecting the electrical connection to the AMM the car would still not start.
I pulled the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator and it smelled of fuel which I've been told is a bad sign for the regulator as its not suppose to smell like fuel at all.
In the #6 terminal the code that I kept getting was 1-1-1 which signifies nothing.
Haven't gotten a chance to listen for the fuel pump upon turning the ignition key. Might get a hand tomorrow for that.
I will say that I will be one unhappy camper if it is the AMM. I plan on buying some AMM cleaner and spraying the thing out hoping that might be a cheap fix.
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Clean the contacts in the connector to the AMM and make sure they are not pushed into the connector and not making contact. Cleaning the AMM with a spray most likely won't do anything.
Jumper the left side of fuses 4 and 6, if it starts the fuel system relay is bad.
Does the oil smell like gas?
Dan
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The AMM connector seems fine inside, everything was in order, the female terminals. Mine only has five, while there are 6 male ends coming out of the AMM unit.
But, once I put the spark plugs in order it started up alright, but the vacuum hose from the intake to the fuel pressure regulator does smell like gasoline and I suspect the condition of the spark plugs must be the sign of some other problem. Let me know what ya think.
Again, thanks for the advice.
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Well I'm officially an amateur! In a good way. Turns out the #1 and #2 spark plug were not fully connected to the wires from the distributor cap. I left the AMM connector off and got it to start, but it was running really roughly still. Re-attached AMM and then checked the spark plugs and wa-lah! Hooked them up better than they were and it started up normally and idled pretty well.
Upon examining the tops of the spark plugs(plan on taking them out tomorrow morning in the daylight and seeing how they are inside) they seemed a little chewed up, but not rusted or anything. They were changed about a year or so ago. But the cords, which I believe are boogi, were not seating onto them that well. Spark plug #2 particularly, it was hard to get that suction-pop feeling when pushing on the boot.
So, I'm definitely getting some new spark plugs soon and also considering getting a new fuel pressure regulator, as this might have something to do with the condition of the spark plugs.
Just want to say thanks to everybody for the advice and assessments and also apologize for not fully checking out my car's situation properly. I'm learning still. Thanks to my friend Bork's help and knowledge, the big replacement jobs have been pretty doable, but the troubleshooting of more complicated service things I'm still learning.
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