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A/C SWAP FROM 90 R12 TO 90 134A 200 1990

HOW'S EVERYONE DOING? I SURE THIS HAS BEEN DISCUSSED BEFORE. I'VE FOUNDED A 93 BRICK IN MY LOCAL PICK&PULL AND IT HAS ALL IT PARTS AND SINCE I HAVE TO PULL THE DASH OUT FOR THE FAN MOTOR I'M THINKING ABOUT TAKING THE A/C FOR MY 90. HAS ANYONE PERFORMED THIS CHANGE OUT WHAT PARTS SHOULD BE SURE TO GET AND WHAT PROBLEMS SHOULD I EXPECT. THANKS FOR ANY HELP... P.S. ANYONE NEEDS PARTS








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A/C SWAP FROM 90 R12 TO 90 134A 200 1990

hello charles,
yes, i've converted my 86 245 a/c to a 92 a/c job. it's a big undertaking, but worth it if you plan on keeping your car.

i don't know how different the 93's are to the 91/92s. i assume small differences--the 93 a dedicated r134 car only.

take everything, and you will need to disassemble the dash on both cars.

take pictures how everything is set up, best to have a second late model car available to compare.

1. use/keep your 1990 firewall. it is the only on that will allow the hoses to change from the old style to new style gm a/c system.

2. from the 93:
- a/c intake and return freon pipes.
- all rubber hoses
- take the complete heater housing and evaporator. be careful to note how the vacuum hoses are connected together on the back of the center panel for the floor, defrost and vents. label the vac hoses with paper and tape.
- take the condenser
- take the heater hose plate that fits on the firewall--screwed on to the firewall. this is the plate where the in and out heater hoses go through the firewall. this is usually rusted in the older cars.
- take the gm accumulator holder and piping connected to the accumulator.
- the a/c switch with the blue snowflake, may be faded now, you may not need this.
- take the little a/c pipe holders that connect it to the body. take all of them.

3. buy new a/c orifice, correct size o-rings, freon R134 and ester oil.

4. keep from your 90, your thermo switch.

i've wired up the my 86 a/c compressor with a toggle switch to turn the a/c on and off. i also wired the older thermo switch switch. i don't use the high and low presso switch. i wanted to control the a/c on and off using the older thermo switch, not by pressure.

i can show you how to do that and i can help with some photos and some notes i took.

for the condenser, you will need to do some simple fabbing by using a dremel and drilling some holes for screws. note how the condenser is attached on the late model car.

you will be disassembling a lot, take plenty of notes, keep everything organized and note what bolts, screws, etc goes where.

also, it is hard to put the heater box in. another small mistake i did was to pinch the vac hose to the outside air vent when i installed the big plastic heater box (not heater core). i'll get to it one day.

remember to take everything. and take the heater gate valve and note how it's installed--that's the valve that opens and closes the hot water to your heater core.

good to replace the heater core with a new one, but if not, the 93 should be good.

i think that's most of it, keep focused, and have a place where you can store your car while you work on it. i only had time on the weekends.

regards,
byron golden
86 245
92 245
94 940








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A/C SWAP FROM 90 R12 TO 90 134A 200 1990

If the A/C system is working but low on R12, look into using Duracool, available in Walmart Canada. It is a HC mix, supposed to be more efficient than R12.
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont.








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A/C SWAP FROM 90 R12 TO 90 134A 200 1990

I would take everything you can get.

Ask an AC guy - new parts for R12 will leak 134A - the molecules are much smaller.
--
'96 855R,'64 PV544 driver, '67 P1800 basket case, '12 XC70, the first three are mine, heh, heh, 525,000 miles put on 10 bricks







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