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auto to manual conversion, drilling clutch cable hole location? 200 1991

posted by  Epic2112 on  Wed Jul 11 08:00 CST 2012
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last visit: Mon Oct 20 12:15 CST 2014
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I need to drill the hole for the clutch cable. I've got the pedals in the car, but there's not enough room to drill from in there, obviously. I was thinking I could eyeball it and get it pretty damn close, will that be good enough? If not, does anyone have measurements and where I should measure from to get it perfect?








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    auto to manual conversion, drilling clutch cable hole location? 200 1991

    uid 29404's pic
    posted by  punk240 on  Wed Jul 18 21:40 CST 2012
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    http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff56/bigtahoe6/The%20Volvo/100_2375.jpg








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      auto to manual conversion, drilling clutch cable hole location? 200 1991

      posted by  Epic2112 on  Wed Jul 18 21:50 CST 2012
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      That's perfect, thank you!








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        auto to manual conversion, drilling clutch cable hole location? 200 1991

        uid 4846's pic
        posted by  JohnMc on  Thu Jul 19 08:33 CST 2012
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        My '93 240 had a sort of bump there, an embossing in the sheetmetal.

        Drilling from the inside seemed like it would involve a lot more disassembly than I wanted to do, so I got it from the engine side. I first drilled a smaller pilot hole, then enlarged it bit by bit with a step (cone) bit until the cable barely fit through.

        On the inside I pondered replacing the entire pedal box.bracket with the manual version, but in the end decided to just prune the far left piece off the manual bracket and bolt that in next to the existing auto bracket. It's as secure as it would be otherwise, and far easier to do.
        --
        '63 PV544 rat rod, '93 Classic #1141 245 (now w/16V turbo)








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    auto to manual conversion, drilling clutch cable hole location? 200 1991

    posted by  Budcoldweiser on  Wed Jul 11 22:32 CST 2012
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    There is a rounded part on the body where the panel meets it. The center of the radius of this curve is the center of the hole. There may be some foamy gasket in the way. If I recall correctly it is a 3/4" (19mm) hole. I drilled a small pilot hole first and used a hole saw bit. Both were from the engine room side and were drilled at an angle.
    --
    1966 122s, 1968 142s, 1969 144s, 1979 245dl, 1989 244gl








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      auto to manual conversion, drilling clutch cable hole location? 200 1991

      posted by  Epic2112 on  Wed Jul 11 22:51 CST 2012
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      Super helpful, thanks!

      It is 3/4 inch. I'm going to drill a pilot hole and then use a stepped bit, with a small right-angle drill that I have.








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    auto to manual conversion, drilling clutch cable hole location? 200 1991

    posted by  joekidd on  Wed Jul 11 16:12 CST 2012
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    on the 140s it was justa rubber grommet that had to be removed and i would imagine its the same on the 240 as well Both my 87 and 88 are 5 speeds cable comes through to the right of the booster,theres a small curve in the firewall metal where its nestled in








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      auto to manual conversion, drilling clutch cable hole location? 200 1991

      posted by  Volvo From Heck on  Wed Jul 11 16:27 CST 2012
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      "on the 140s it was just a rubber grommet that had to be removed and i would imagine its the same on the 240 as well"
      The firewall on the 240 series has a bolted in panel on each side of the trans tunnel to accomodate different models. On '85 and earlier cars a grommet for 4cyl and diesel cables and a bolted in cover plate (for V6 cars with a clutch master cylinder) are there. On later 240's the panel on auto trans cars is solid and that panel is a horror to change. I'm faced with the same "problem" with the V8 conversion I've done on an auto '93 245. Luckily I have an '80 244 ex-Diesel body with the cover + plug for reference. Write me at-----fastforwardphoto(AT)yahoo(DOT)com-----and I'll take some photos/measurements. -- Dave








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        auto to manual conversion, drilling clutch cable hole location? 200 1991

        posted by  Epic2112 on  Wed Jul 11 22:19 CST 2012
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        last visit: Mon Oct 20 12:15 CST 2014
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        Yup. On at least later auto 240s there's no hole at all for the clutch cable. Swapping out that bolted in panel requires removing/replacing all the pedals including the throttle pedal and cable, removing/replacing the brake booster, draining the coolant, pulling all the engine wire harness lines into the cabin and then fishing them through again (I think), removing/replacing the steering rod, not to mention all the dash parts that have to come out, and probably other stuff I'm forgetting.

        Dave, thanks for the offer, I actually have the correct panel from my parts car as well, I was being lazy and hoping someone a bit more skilled than I already had the measurements and could just post them, but it would be unfair of me to ask you to go through the work of taking them when I can do the same.

        How is that conversion coming along, anyway? Do I remember correctly that you're using the V8 out of a TR8 (or something similar)?








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          auto to manual conversion, drilling clutch cable hole location? 200 1991

          posted by  Volvo From Heck on  Thu Jul 12 04:53 CST 2012
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          "How is that conversion coming along, anyway? Do I remember correctly that you're using the V8 out of a TR8 (or something similar)? "
          Thanks for asking. I call my creation a VolvOldsmobile--the engine having come from a 1963 Olds F85 (aka Cutlass). The Triumph used the Rover V8 which is based on the Buick Special (aka Skylark) with the difference between the R/T/B and Olds being in the cylinder head configuration. The R/T/B combustion chamber is open with dished pistons--almost a "hemi" except for not having angled valves---while the Olds chamber is very similiar to a B18/B20 and uses flat top pistons. The R/T/B has the valve cover straight up and down like the old "nailhead" Buick V8's while the Olds is angled.
          I've towed the car back to NY from my son's now closed shop in NC and have the motor and Camaro T5 gearbox bolted in place in the "new" '93 245.
          What's left to do is some basic plumbing (I plan on using the tank push pump to get fuel to the carb--excess going back to the tank. My original version had no push pump--'76 265--so I had used the mechanical pump on the motor).
          I liked the simpler wiring on the '76 better--made an engine harness easy work. The '93 has basic engine wiring and FI stuff all bundled together.
          Right now--no time to work on it--but it will get done. -- Dave






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