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Replacing Control Arms 200

posted by  jwheli on  Wed Jun 27 22:19 CST 2012
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last visit: Wed Mar 12 11:19 CST 2014
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I will be replacing both control arms and would like to know about the two outer bolts that hold the ball joint to the control arms.

Mine are flat on top and pressed in like a wheel studs. Should I be removing those to use in the new control arms? Or will the standard bolts that come with a new set of ball joints fit and not interfere with the strut housing?

If I do remove them, what is the suggestion as to how. I was thinking of a using a nut screwed part way and then tapping it out with a hammer.

Thanks
JW








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    Replacing Control Arms 200

    uid 27's pic
    posted by  Art Benstein on  Thu Jun 28 05:42 CST 2012
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    last visit: Fri Oct 17 20:10 CST 2014
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    I think you'll find that little plate is separate from your control arm. Maybe rust has joined them a bit and it will need a tap.


    --
    Art Benstein near Baltimore

    After a waitress asked if Yogi wanted his pizza cut into four or eight slices: "Four, I don't think I can eat eight."








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      Replacing Control Arms 200

      posted by  jwheli on  Thu Jun 28 06:21 CST 2012
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      last visit: Wed Mar 12 11:19 CST 2014
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      Ahh yes! I see now what I have and should have looked at it a bit more before jumping to conclusions.

      Thansk for the response.
      JW







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    I don't remember their being an issue ... 200

    posted by  Ken C on  Wed Jun 27 22:46 CST 2012
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    last visit: Fri Oct 24 11:39 CST 2014
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    When I replaced my control arms (bought new ones*), I don't remember their being an issue -- it's been a few years, but I seem to remember that I just wrenched off the nuts (socket wrench) and pulled off the ball joint's piece. I didn't have to hammer anything, but I did have to wiggle the parts around a little because they go back on only if the holes are perfectly aligned with the bolts -- not much tolerance.

    The reason I bought new ones was that I wanted to upgrade the front bushing to poly (along with all the other front end bushings) and my local shop couldn't press out the old ones -- they said it was an awkward angle to press on.


    * here's what I paid for new ones at the Volvo dealer's parts counter:
    Left: 1205680-0
    Right: 1205686-7, list $117.58, and $105.82 with VCoA discount








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      I don't remember their being an issue ... 200

      uid 46171's pic
      posted by  kittysgreyvolvo on  Fri Jun 29 09:03 CST 2012
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      last visit: Sat Oct 18 15:23 CST 2014
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      You have regular duty and heavy duty Volvo 240 control arms.

      I guess regular dooty is what we have, mostly?

      Anyone ever work with or compare heavy doody to regular duty Volvo 240 control arms?

      Just wondering.

      cheers,

      dud.
      --
      I said, "doody."








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        I was told that they were for taxis .... 200

        posted by  Ken C on  Fri Jun 29 11:44 CST 2012
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        I heard that the heavy-duty arms were in taxis, when I asked about them to my dealer (where I bought my new regular arms) -- they told me that they weren't available here in the states because Volvo didn't offer the taxi package here. Just hearsay from the parts counter, though.






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