Hello!

I'm the proud owner of a 1985 Volvo 240 DL which I purchased back in Nov. 2011. It ran well (albeit with poor gas mileage) but the engine wiring harness and the ignition wiring harness were in poor condition with a lot of bare wiring. I obtained replacement harnesses and hired a local mechanic to install them. He was unfamiliar with my Volvo 240, but he agreed to take on the job anyway. This was his first time replacing the engine and ignition harnesses in a car like mine. After the new harnesses were installed, the car would crank over, but wouldn't start up. Since the car ran ok prior to installing the new harnesses, I suspect that something is installed incorrectly. The mechanic is frustrated and says that he doesn't have the time to research this problem, so I'm trying to help out in an effort to get my car back in running condition. Are there common mistakes that a first timer might make when replacing the engine and ignition harnesses that would clue me in to where to look for the problem? Any insights would be appreciated. Thank you! :-)

Regards,

Michael Bertoni
Greeley, CO

7/3/2012 update: Still dead in the water, I read that the fuel pump relay located under the dash on the passenger side can be a common point of failure in hard start problems so I replaced it. The car still cranks over, but fails to start. I also purchased a radio suppression relay as I read that it can also cause problems like this. Unfortunately, I discovered that it was only used in 1988 and later models of the 240 and not 1985. After replacing the fuel pump relay, I switched the injector connectors on the harness between #1 and #4. The car still cranked over, but failed to start. My wife said that she smelled gas. I switched the connectors back and the car again cranked over, but failed to start. The smell of gas was gone according to my wife. With the limited funds at my disposal, I've ordered a replacement ignition control module as the old harness might have shorted it out or perhaps it has damaged in the harness replacement. I'm unsure if this will work, but I'm a bit frustrated.

Do you have spark and fuel? Check the 25 amp fuse and holder near the battery, there may be corrosion in the holder or at the connection to the battery.
Dan

July 5th, 2012 update:

The car has sat idle for over 24 hours now. I cleaned the inline fuse holder near the battery that contains the 25A fuse and replaced it with a new one. The car started up with a labored low idle. After a minute or two the idle smoothed out and I drive the car around two covered parking structures at my apartment complex without a problem. It didn't even hint at stalling out. I then parked the car in our parking space and turned her off. She cranked over but failed to start from that point forward again. The mechanic that installed my wiring harness mentioned that the connector to the ICU appeared different then in the old harness, but it does fit in the ICU. I pulled the connector out rather easily and inspected the pins on the ICU. There are eight pins that are covered with a brown residue that is inside their housing as well. I cleaned the housing and pins as best I could and reconnected the harness to the ICU. The car still cranked over, but failed to start up. I have a replacement ICU ordered and on the way. I'm open to suggestions at this point. Thank you to all who take the time to follow my thread! :-)

If it ran it is not the ICU. When you say ICU are you referring to the computer mounted by the W/Washer reservoir? If so a couple of the pins on the ICU should have sleeves on them for better connection or contact.

Make sure the 25 amp fuse holder connection at the battery is not loaded with corrosion. I would also suspect the fuel system relay in an intermittent no start. Make sure all fuses in the fuse box are good and the fuses are tight in the holder and the contacts are corrosion free. It is good practice to rotate the fuses in the holder a couple times a year to insure better contact.

Dan

July 15th, 2012 update:

The car is still dead in the water. I've now replaced the engine wiring harness, the ignition wiring harness, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, distributor rotor, fuel pump relay, all fuses with new ones, the 25 amp fuse located near the battery and the ignition control unit located near the windshield washer reservoir. While the car previously started up once, ran rough, and then wouldn't start again after being shut off, it now won't even crank over like there is a dead short somewhere. The Bosch 09232 spark plug wires have metal boots compared to the original ones. They pop on to the plugs, but don't strike me as a snug fit. I'm totally at a loss here as I seem to be rebuilding my 1985 240 DL one part at a time. Does anyone know if she has engine codes that can be read? Thank you for taking the time to read the ongoing saga of my ailing 240 DL.

Regards,

Michael

There is no codes to find in the LH 2.2.

If it won't even turn over there is a problem with the battery or starter. What voltage do you have on the battery. Maybe an overnight charge is the next thing to do.

Once it turns over again you need to see if there is spark at the plugs, the fuel pumps run, and fuel through the injectors.

Dan

July 18th, 2012 update:

I took the battery to Autozone and they charged it successfully. The car now cranks over well, but still fails to start. I confirmed that spark is getting to the plugs. I checked the fuel line that goes to the fuel pressure regulator and it was dry. I checked the fuel pump relay and I felt a click when the ignition was started. I then disconnected the fuel pump relay and jumpered terminals 87/2 and 30 with a wire while the ignition was off. The main fuel pump engaged and fuel came out strongly from the line to the fuel pressure regulator. I'd just replaced the fuel pressure relay, but given these findings I'll replace it again. I feel like I'm getting very close to a solution. Any suggestions on what to do next would be greatly appreciated. Thanks to everyone who has taken the time to read about my ailing 240. I'm glad that I didn't give into frustration and sell her for scrap over this. :-)

August 4th, 2012 update:

After replacing the fuel pump relay for the 2nd time, the car still cranks over but won't start. Although I charged the battery at AutoZone on July 18th, it seems to have lost cranking power since then. I'm unsure if recharging the battery would do any good at this point. No mechanic here in Northern Colorado knows anything about my 240 - it's too old. I'm out of ideas at this point. It's a 2.2L Jetronic ignition. I've confirmed spark to the plugs and that the fuel pump works if the relay is bypassed. I'm frustrated enough to sell her to a junk car buyer at this point and cut my losses. I guess I got a lemon.

6/27/2012 update:

My mechanic double checked all of the harness connections and re-seated several of them. With the MAF disconnected, the car now starts up but runs so rich that it floods out after a short while. With the MAF connected it's even worse. With the new harnesses now correctly in place, I suspect that the MAF was shorted out by the old harnesses since there were so many bare wires. The car is now home and I believe that the MAF is still under warranty so I'll try to RMA it for a replacement. I'm open to any insights on what else might need to be replaced to get her to run properly again. Thank you to all who took the time to read my post and help with your insights! My Volvo is my only car and I'm trying to get her running reliably enough to get re-employed after a year and a half of unemployment.

I have read where the harness was replaced, the Idle control valve and the Engine coolant temp sensor were switched upon installing. Have the same connector plug.
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Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.

It's the idle control valve and the throttle position switch connectors that can be mistakenly interchanged. The coolant sensor has a single (or is it 2?) wire - those others have three.
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Bob: son's XC70, dtr's '94-940, my 81GL, 83-DL, 89-745(V8) and 98-S90. Also 77-MGB and some old motorcycles.

Usually a failed AMM will idle fine disconnected and not run connected, so you may be onto something.
Dan

Below is a list of what's needed for starting. Basically it's spark then fuel. See how far your car is progressing, so you can focus on the right area....


Start-Run Sequence LH 2.2 Version ['85-'88 240]

1) During starter cranking, the distributor Hall sensor sends timing pulses to Ignition Control Unit (ICU) located below windshield fluid tank.

2-a) The ICU uses these Hall Sensor pulses to trigger the Ignition Coil (– terminal) to initiate timed sparks from the coil.

2-b) At the same time, the ICU also propagates the pulses to the FI ECU, to allow FI operation. [ lack of ICU pulses means no Fuel pumping]

3-a) The Fuel Injection (System) relay (previously energized at Key On) powers the AMM and ECU. The System relay lives with the Fuel (pump) relay in the same white plastic case. The LH 2.2 "pump" relay also powers the Injectors, IAC motor/valve, and the O2 sensor heater.

3-b) When ICU pulses are received by the FI ECU, it "energizes" the Fuel (pump) relay by grounding the relay coil (– side) to run the pumps.

When all these things work, the engine runs until the Ignition is switched off, which in turn shuts down the FI system.

Determining whether or not there is spark at the plugs (2a) — and whether or not the plugs are getting gas (3b) — are good no-start "starting" points.
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Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

Ok so I have a 1990 240dl wagon that was running (with a tick for about a week, could be unrelated) fine in the morning but then wouldnt start when I was heading for work.

I have already tried several things

disconnected the AMM
spark at ignition coil
replaced fuel relay (used part but could hear it functioning when replaced)
I can hear the fuel pump working at KPII

Only flag so far is that when I checked a spark plug it looked dry, what else do I need to get fuel into the engine?

I also ran thru the engine diagnostics and everything seemed to be clear. Although I did have a check engine light on from a faulty coolant temp sensor that I had not reset yet and I disconnected the positive from the battery to clean off when it wouldnt start. That probably erased any other helpful codes stored on there so I screwed myself there (wont do that again). Any direction would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks AGAIN Lucid, for the clarification that it is all done AT THE SAME TIME.

I have trouble thinking that way. Probably because I do no think I can do any TWO things at the same time unless it is a normal body function that does not require some thinking!

I'll give you two thumbs up's at the SAME time though for that explanation but you will only see one of them.(:)

Phil

Your car has to have signal go from the distributor to both the ECU in the cabin and to the ignition unit on the right fender. I do not know the order of what turns on when and how they talk to each other.

There is a warning about attempting to disconnect the connector on the unit on the right fender as they have a one-time use pins inside it. I hope he did not mess with that while redoing the harness in that direction.

I would verify spark to the distributor and plugs. Also, check to see if the fuel pump relay is closing or jumper the fuse panel into bypass. With the pumps running and spark, that would leave the Fuel Injector ECU for some sort of operational check.

You are very brave, than other older car owners, to let someone you have to pay by the hour to jump into a project like that. You must be real good friends and patient, which is a good start even though the car does not.

IMHO
Phil

I am the proud owner of 2 1985 240 DLs.
I have never replaced my wiring harness.I'm not sure if there are any "common mistakes" in replacing a wiring harness.
If it turns over, but doesnt start,I would start with checking that the plugs are sparking, and that fuel is being supplied to the injecters.There are many possible causes for the problem.If you dont already have one,buy a Bentley manual.
Best wishes......d