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Interesting starting problem 200 1985

1985 245 NA US spec

Problem = When started 1st time of the day or after 10-15 hours engine starts and idles perfectly at 750-800 rpm. When load is applied to start out it will stall unless engine revved to about 2000-2200 RPM. After driving for 30-60secs everything is normal (mileage great, driveability great, etc) until shut down and allowed to sit for at least 12 hours then same problem occurs again for first minute. I can be driving or just letting it idle and the problem clears in the first minute.

Background - This started just after I had a main fuel pump failure and replaced the in tank and main fuel pump (about 6 months ago). Both of those pumps are working fine. Problem is not related to fuel tank level and engine does not have time to get significantly warm during the first minute. Problem does seem slightly worse when OAT is less than 45F (where I live it never gets less than 35F) but still is present even with OAT 70+.

I did not replace the fuel pressure regulator. I have since replaced Distributor cap, rotor, ignition wires and plugs (the were due for replacement)and that did not change the problem.

Since I am used to it this is not big problem but wondered if anyone on the board had a similar problem or has any suggestions for a fix.

Thanks
Howard








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    Interesting starting problem. SOLVED 200 1985

    After thinking about it I decided not to replace the check valve.

    I cleaned (rinsed) the idle control motor and seem to have corrected the problem.

    I had the same problem removing the idle control motor as some others have had. The nuts on the back of the plate were loose and I was unable to (not small enough 10mm wrench and hands) secure them while loosening the 3 bolts. The idle control motor is (like the flame trap) not readily accessible with the intake manifold in place. After about 30 minutes I just gave up.

    Instead I removed the hose from the air filter hose (just ahead of the throttle body) and poured about 4oz of throttle body cleaner down it. I let it sit for a couple of minutes then started engine.

    Probably just a temporary fix but initial idle problem is now cured and warm idle is smoother at this time.

    Given the gum and bailing wire approach I used I expect the problem reoccur. When it does I will make a better effort at removing the ICM for workbench cleaning or replacement.

    Thanks to all for suggestions.
    Howard








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    Interesting starting problem 200 1985

    Hi Howard:

    This sounds more like a failed Fuel Pump Check Valve issue to me. I had the same issues with my car several years ago, and the problems went away when I replaced this $16 part. Available from FCP Groton, it does not take long to install.

    http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/product_id/5147/nm/Volvo_240_Fuel_Pump_Check_Valve_1985_1993_Bosch_/category_id/149

    It's easy to check the fuel pressure regulator under the hood, just remove the vacuum line, and check for gasoline or a very strong gasoline odor. If that's not the issue, then I would check the check valve on the fuel pump. Did your new fuel pump come with a new one, or did you re-use the old one?

    The check valve keeps fuel in the fuel line so that you have full pressure when you start your car. If the valve has failed, after 30-60 seconds, your system has been re-pressurized, and all is back to normal, so no stalling.

    Be sure to follow up and let us know what you find out.
    --
    If it needs to be maintained, repaired or replaced on a 1990 240, I've probably done it. '90 240DL, 323,320 miles, will she make it to 400K ?? >>You haven't really worked on a car until you draw blood<< :-}








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      Interesting starting problem 200 1985

      Yes I thought of that. The pump is OEM Bosch from FCP and came with a new check valve attached. I suppose (given current sourcing and qa) that it could have been bad out of the box.
      I didn't favor this since I thought that if the check valve was bad two things would happen.
      1. It would be a hard start (not in this case) since the line would not be pressurized
      2. The problem would not take 10-15 hours to occur.

      I imagine that if there was a minimal failure in the valve that it might take a long time for the pressure in the line to fall but that still does not explain the normal immediate start.

      I will replace the valve and let the board know if that solves the problem.

      Thanks
      Howard








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        Not likely to be a check valve fault 200 1985

        "I didn't favor this since I thought that if the check valve was bad two things would happen.
        1. It would be a hard start (not in this case) since the line would not be pressurized"


        I wish I had a good suggestion for your problem, but I don't think it's due to the check valve. Contrary to a lot of conventional wisdom here, the check valve's main purpose is to aid HOT starts—rather than to hold pressure overnight. By maintaining some pressure for a short time (the "residual pressure" spec is measured in minutes*), will prevent the vapor lock that might otherwise result from fuel boiling in the injector rail, due to heat soak from the hot engine.

        A good pump will have pressure up almost instantly, thanks to the pump's efficiency and relatively small line volume involved. I checked this on my 940, after bleeding the line down to 0 psi. It was running by the count of 2.


        * Bentley page 241-10 says:
        Residual Fuel Pressure • minimum after 20 minutes. . . .1.0-bar (14.5psi)

        On the other hand, maybe a wonky check valve might blocking fuel flow might block fuel flow for some reason (spring/check ball?) after a long rest.


        --
        Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.







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