|
|
|
Hello to ALL,
Sorry been away awhile. I have a 240 wagon and its great for the most part. Just replaced the shocks and that did not help the sagging, which I kinda figured since the shocks only take care of correcting the car going over bumps and dips.
the problem: My wagon sags a little normally and a lot when theres stuff in the back. I haul stuff a fair amount. WOndering if its the coil springs sagging or if its the rear trailing arms. I don't know much about the rear trailing arms. Need to research and check it out in my Haynes manual. My friend has the bentley and he grasps that thing to his chest like the bible.
If it is the trailing arms, what needs to be replace and how easy is it or should I just get parts and take it to a trusted mechanic?
|
|
-
|
|
|
This may be of interest; David Samuels is supplying some.
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=252914
|
|
-
|
|
|
Another vote to add to the roster of TAB folks.
Replacing the TAB's on my 83 cured its sagging rear.
If yours is well down, it may be more than the TAB's at fault, such as springs or their seats, but disintegrated TAB's are easy to detect if the arm is not radially centered in the axle loops.
--
Bob: son's XC70, dtr's '94-940, my 81GL, 83-DL, 89-745(V8) and 98-S90. Also 77-MGB and some old motorcycles.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Hi Bork
I just replaced mine few weeks ago. I tried to make my own tool. In the end, I bought a tool from Kent-Moore because I didn't feel comfortable with my own tool. Now, I compare them side by side, I did pretty good. You can have my home made tool if you like as long as you're not Johnny Chan. You might have to adjust them. Shoot me an email.
Uro bushing from IPD; $9 dollar each
Home made bushing tool; $25 dollars
Kent-Moore tool; $145 dollars
Money that I saved; $600-$1000 (priced at two Volvo dealers)
Reading Tony H's (well written) step by step how to remove/install bushing after work completed; priceless
My IPD friend says, if you go poly, go poly all around for better balance. I am very new at this and it wasn't too difficult for me. It took me less than ten minutes for the second bushing;pressing out & putting new one in. However, I did sprayed a lot of PB blaster over few months and there was no rust build up on mine.
New bushings=no more sagging :+)
|
|
-
|
|
|
Hello Swedish Baklavva,
I have a sagging 240 DL '89 wagon. I am friends with bork(cubed). We do too much volvo shit together for our own good(according to our respective ladies)!
But, anyways, I was considering making the tool for the trailing arm bushing removal myself. If you would be so kind as to lend it to me, I would be greatful and pay for all the shipping and everything.
If this sounds ok to you let me know, I would greatly appreciate it.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Hi Stallison
If Bork doesn't want it, then you can have it. Someone sent me an email, need to verify that first. May be that was you or Bork.
After the verification, you can send me your name/address to my email. You DO NOT need to return it, it's yours, just pay for the shipping.
I can just send it as is.
Or
Take some photos with dimensions, upload it and have our BB members to take a look before I send it to you.
It's heavy, shipping will cost you and I want you to be happy. I suggest you should go with the second option.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Sorry for the confusion. Stallison and I are friends. I had my BB profile open on his computer. It never reset, and he posted that on my account accidently. So, my brick is in WI.. I just help him with upkeep and advice (often unsolicited) with his.. Any help with me, esentially helps him. So thanks, and you can totally send the tool to him. Really appreciate it..
--
'89 245 B230F M47
|
|
-
|
|
|
Hi Bork and Stallison
No need to be sorry. Let me post up few pictures and get some feed back from out BB members before I sent it to Stallison. Thanks.
|
|
-
|
|
|
In my opinion;I'm with the TAB theory(s).
Yes, springs can be part of the problem,especially if the car has been overloaded for extended periods, but, if the car has been overloaded, then it's almost for sure that the TABs have been mushed.
Start with the TABs,you probably need them anyway, and, dont skimp and buy cheap aftermarket bushings.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Not sure which ones.. It's the rear position rear trailing arm bushing?... I see poly IPDs,($$$) rubber Uro's (cheapo) and Febi's... I should probably go with Febi, right?
|
|
-
|
|
|
Yes,it's the rear big bushings.
Not sure what the "Febi"s are, but dont go for the cheapos!
Changing these bushings is a nasty and brutal task!If you are a seasoned and patient mechanic, then do it yourself,there is alot of info in these archives.If you can afford it, have it done by a pro.(?)
|
|
-
|
|
|
Trailing arms locate the rear axle correctly in the car, so the wheels are in the same plane as the body going down the road. They transmit the driving force, and the braking force, from the wheels to the body. If they were removed from the car, (but another way of attaching the springs were introduced) it would still sag, or not as the case may be.
The springs hold the body up.
If it's Not up, it's the springs.
|
|
-
|
|
|
I'll have to respectively disagree with jerryc. While the problem may be the springs--it could also be the TABS--here's how I see it----the bracket for the TABS is part of the rear axle so the outer shell of the TABS is at a fixed distance from the ground--determined by the height of the tire/wheel combination. The center tube of the TABS is positioned by the surrounding rubber and the crossbolts are fixed to the trailing arm through the mounting holes. If the TAB rubber is removed--or worn, the weight of the car---through the springs---is transfered to the trailing arm which pulls the crossbolts down relative to the outer shell of the TABS--resulting in a sagging body.
You will need to crawl under the rear of the car and with a flashlight try to determine where the crossbolt sits relative the the outer shell of the TAB. If it seems off center low the TAB is shot. Personally I always thought having the bushings fixed to the axle instead of the trailing arm seemed like a pretty lame idea service wise--probably not an original thought. -- Dave
|
|
-
|
|
|
Ok, trailing arm Bushings may be an issue; the OP referred to trailing arms themselves. The shock comment led me to believe there may not have been sufficient understanding of what did what.
|
|
-
|
|
|
I vote for trailing arms. Bad Bushings will give you about a 3/4" sag. Sounds like a small amount about it looks dramatic when you step away and look at the car
Look at Erling website. Check the Pics 'cause the words aren't going to help : ) http://home.lyse.net/brox/TrailingArmBushings.html
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/
|
|
-
|
|
|
I'm not understanding the install part of it... Do you use that tool to push the new one in?
|
|
-
|
|
|
Both. You set it up to press the old bushing out ( toward the Differential) and then to press the new on in
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/
|
|
-
|
|
|
I second that - TAB, but check all your rear bushings while you are at.
|
|
|
|
|
