Hey guys:

I'm getting a loud screetch/squeeling when press the gas, particularly when I first start the car. It goes away once it's fully warm. Unless I have the AC on; then it keeps squeeling when I gas.

The car has 225,000 miles and a new timing belt was installed at 199,000.

A new AC blower was installed at 199,000.

Thoughts?

I appreciate any help.

In sum:

Symptom: Squeel/Screetch.
Goes away when warm and AC is off.
Only screetches when I gas (and when AC is on).

Someone else may have suggested this already- I didn't have time to read through all 30 posts....

A few years back my 89 240 would make a squeeling noise, seemed to happen when I hit the accelerator. I tried what I thought was everything- changed and tensioned belts, new bushings at the mounting points, etc. After the car was totalled, I was scavenging parts and discovered that the harmonic balancer was bad- the rubber connection was slipping.

Another thing to consider if you haven't already....

Lyle

Does the AC belt feel slacker than the other belts. Adjusting the belt is not difficult if you have tools and know which bolts to loosen when you do it, look at the top/upper mounts on the AC.

If it is not the belt it might be a slipping harmonic balancer on the front of the crankshaft. Draw a line with a crayon or something across the two metal pieces start up the engine and make it squeal, if the mark separates it is the harmonic balancer.
Dan

Thank you very much for the response/info.

I'm struggling to find which belt is the AC Belt. I'm looked through the Haynes and online and must be missing something right in front of my face.

I apologize for the rookie questions, but I'm learning!

First, if you never have tighten any belts, try to find a helper.(where you located? maybe someone is close to you) It is very easy to twist off/break the belt tensioner bolt.(Can't stress this enough)Do not try to turn this bolt(around 6" long) until you loosen up the mounting nuts/bolts. This tensioner applies to all 3 belts.

When you stand at the radiator you'll see 3 belts. Counting from front to rear:
1. a/c belt
2. alternator belt
3. waterpump, powersteering pump.

Push down with your thumb in the center of the a/c belt(engine NOT running). If it deflects more than 1/4" it needs tightening or replacing. Look at all the belts closely. If they looked worn, cracks, or you can see "thread" showing through they need replacing. And since you have to remove 2 belts to get to the last one, I normally replace them all at once.

Look at the top of this page for drop down menu "more". Scroll down to 700/900. Even though you have a 200, lots of the info there applies. On that page, 3 dropdowns.

http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineSealsBeltsVent.htm#AccessoryBeltTighteningandMaintenance
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Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.

Thanks! I just went to look more closely, and I found something pretty scary.

Looking from the radiator. There's the fan.

Then two belts that run more or less horizontal in front of the exhaust manifold. The one closest to the fan is way loose. Like an inch? The second one is loose, but not as badly. Then there's a single one to the right that's pretty tight.

Then there's the belt that runs horizonally. It's tight.

But here's what's scary. I found a long thin bolt sticking out that I could "tighten" a bit with my fingers. It's underneath the two belts.

I had the fan clutch replaced a couple of weeks ago. Could this have happened from those guys?

What happens if that screw comes out?

Thanks!

I've attached an image. Looking at it from the driver's side.

It looks to me like the bolt at the bottom of the alternator is sticking out and probably missing the nut that should be at the other end.
Dan

Thanks for all the help folks!

So here's the question.

Seeing that photo: Do you think it's likely or possible or not very likely or definitely maybe or 100 percent positive that the guys who replaced my fan clutch could've screwed this up?

In other words, when you remove the fan clutch are you also removing or playing with these belts?

Secondly: Can--being a guy who can change the oil--I find the back end of this bolt in a store and fix it temporarily?

Alternately . . .

Can I drive it 8 miles to the shop as it is or should I have it towed?

I doubt these guys screwed this up. They charged you a lot for something that you could have done yourself, but I don't see any reason why they would have been monkeying around with this particular bolt.

You can fix this yourself. Go to the hardware store and get an 8mm nut (13mm wrench size).
Take the belly pan off (if you have one) by removing the 7 bolts (some might be missing) around the edge. They take a 10mm socket.
When the pan is off slide under the front of the car and find the other end of the bolt which should be sticking out of the middle of a rubber bushing. If it's not, you'll need to fuss around to get it so that it is. This may require that you loosen the clamping nut (13mm) at the top and front of the alternator and loosen the tensioner bolt (10mm) to slacken the belt so that you can get the alternator into position.
Once the bolt is sticking out of its bushing, thread your new nut on. Tighten it with a 13mm wrench while, at the same time, holding the head of the bolt (also 13mm) with another wrench. Tighten it well.
Put the belly pan back on.
If the belts are still too loose to the alternator and water pump, loosen the clamping nut mentioned above and tighten the tensioner bolt until you have reached the correct tension. (belts should deflect about a quarter of an inch when pushed)
Tighten the clamping nut.
Job done.

You might be able to do this from above without removing the belly pan if you are good with your hands.
--
1966 122s, 1968 142s, 1969 144s, 1979 245dl, 1989 244gl

If you try to repair this yourself, be sure to disconnect the battery.
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1966 122s, 1968 142s, 1969 144s, 1979 245dl, 1989 244gl

I tightened the bolt as good as I can. The squeak seems largely gone.

I'll probably go ahead and get it looked at, double checked, . . . but am I going about it the right way?

Just tighten it as much as I can? or do I need to worry about tension?

Did you put the nut on?
Tighten it by hand. I don't think there is a specific torque requirement for this nut.
The belts should be tightened until they deflect about a 1/4 inch when you push on them.
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1966 122s, 1968 142s, 1969 144s, 1979 245dl, 1989 244gl

They did this job a couple of weeks ago.


"They replied--well, we're authorized Volvo people and we're pros and we do it so it doesn't screw up. "

They owe him.
Dan

You are probably right. They do owe him just for their charging him $400 for a fan clutch. However, what kind of response do you think he is going to get from these guys when he brings his 20 year old car back complaining about a missing nut that has absolutely nothing to do with the fan clutch?
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1966 122s, 1968 142s, 1969 144s, 1979 245dl, 1989 244gl

Just their arrogant attitude.

"They replied--well, we're authorized Volvo people and we're pros and we do it so it doesn't screw up. "

Hard to tell, the bolt sticking out may have already been coming out? THey probably could replace the fan clutch w/o removing the alternator belts but if they did they left the alternator belts poorly adjusted with the bottom of the alternator about to come off.

See if you can at least push or tap the bolt back into the mount. You will need the nut to fix this and probably loosen the belts to get the bottom mount attached. Then the alternator belts can be adjusted.
Dan

Thanks, Dan.

I was able to tap it flush with a hammer.

Definitely missing the nut. I wonder what size nut it takes?

The guys who replaced the fan clutch--and charged a crap ton for it--is


Mercedes & Volvo Motor Cars

Category: Auto Repair [Edit]
1525 15th Street NW
Washington, DC 20005
Neighborhood: Logan Circle

They're usually reputable, but man they charge a crap ton and don't give much in the way of estimates and the like.

I ordered and paid for the fan clutch myself and they still charged me 400 bucks. I was like, man, I could've fixed it myself (I think I could have) if I'd known they'd charge that much. They replied--well, we're authorized Volvo people and we're pros and we do it so it doesn't screw up.

I'm not going back.

I'm gonna take it this time to a guy in Silver Spring. I hear he's great.

Thanks for the input.

I'm gonna take it this time to a guy in Silver Spring. I hear he's great.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Don't know what your circumstances are...but if you think that owning an "old" Volvo is going to save you $$$ and yet you have to take your Volvo to a Volvo Mechanic $65 to $100 per hour. then be prepared to spend mucho dinero....Esp in DC and surrounds.

If you don't/can't work on the car yourself, for whatever reason. Sell it while 240's are hot and buy a new car.

$400 for a fan clutch replacement---labor only if I read your post right.
will get you into a NEW Volvo or and Audi on a per/month payment.

Other vehicles more months...but you get my drift. and these would be all cover by XXXXXXXX00000 mile warrenty......parts and labor covered.

CB: I was going to do the fan replacement myself, but after they had me order the part, I figured, well, it will only take a pro--what? 30 minutes--to replace the fan clutch?

So I figured it wasn't gonna be much to do. I was shocked when I got the bill.

I would be very surprised if it took more than 30 minutes.
Dan

I was low....and not even DC rates


Volvo dealer here in Cincinnati $120/hr,

They are crooks, they should know what they are doing, they should have noticed the alternator and belts were not correct and they should have fixed it for $400. Take it back and make them do it right. And then never go back!!!
Dan

It appears as if the bolt that is sticking out is the pivot for the alternator. If it is sticking out that far, the nut that holds it in place is no longer on the other end. If it comes all the way out, the alternator falls off. You need to fix this or have it fixed immediately.
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1966 122s, 1968 142s, 1969 144s, 1979 245dl, 1989 244gl

Whoever did the work likely does not know how these belts are adjusted and it sounds like they screwed up.
Dan

It's the one with the Orange writing that's incredibly loose: like an inch.

That screw at the top is concerning!

There are no pictures but it sounds like the adjusting bolt that once you have the belts correctly tensioned is locked down to the front of the alternator mount.
Dan

All mine have 2 alternator belts and the PS belt goes to the A/C compressor.
Dan

The one attached to the A/C compressor, the belt goes from the harmonic balancer to the A/C compressor.
Dan

AC belt tension. Either old or just not tight enough.
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Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.

I should add that the AC works just fine.

Thanks for response.

AC Fan belt is tied to the accelerator?

How hard/expensive is this to fix, do you think?

Thanks.

Although the drive belts are not directly connected to the accelerator, when you accelerate the speed of the engine, you also cause the accessories. (alternator, water pump, power steering pump, and A/C compressor) If the belts are loose, they cannot provide enough friction to produce that acceleration and they slip causing the squeal. Since rubber tends to shrink when it gets hot, the belts, if slightly loose, will tighten after the have slipped a little. The A/C compressor puts a lot of load on the engine. When the A/C is on, the amount of tightening that results from the belts getting hot is not enough to stop them from slipping.
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1966 122s, 1968 142s, 1969 144s, 1979 245dl, 1989 244gl

The belt runs the alternator, power steering (if any) and any other accessories.
The alternator has to recharge the battery after starting so puts a heavier load on then.
Also running faster makes the alternator require more torque.\
Rapid steering likewise with power steering.
Just tighten the belt!
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George Downs Bartlesville, Oklahoma

The alternator has to recharge the battery every time you start it so the load is greater on startup, also greater at higher speeds.
It's not a function of the accelerator, it is a function of load, engine speed and acceleration.
If you have power steering it might squeal when you steer rapidly also.
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George Downs Bartlesville, Oklahoma

Thanks! How hard is it to tighten the belt?