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uncle prattworks,
Your problem is not unique for your Volvo year make and model. You may want to further search through the brickboard archives for threads containing the same symptoms your 1985 240 exhibits.
With the Bosch LH-Jetronic (2.0 or, more likley, 2.2?) on your 1985 240, I do not know what a "fuel pump regulator" is. Your fuel system uses two fuel pumps. An in-tank prepump that works to keep the main pump primed. There is a mechanical control pressure regulator that uses engine air intake vacuum to vary the fuel pressure in the fuel rail that distributes fuel to the fuel injectors.
Do you have service records) See if any fuel system repairs or parts have been replaced.
I'll guess this is your 1985 Volvo wagon with 300k miles on it?
Diagnosis and repair may take a few days. You may not be able to drive your 1985 Volvo 240 during diagnosis and repair. Repair may require you open the fuel tank by removing and inspecting the in-tank-pre-pump and fuel level sensor assembly. If you have no experience working around open fuel tanks filled with fuel, or you do not have the proper non-sparking brass tools to work around the fuel tank, you may need to enlist a trusted and RWD Volvo literate mechanic.
As you live in lovely sock-in-Birkenstock sandals frumpy Portland, you have innumerable Volvo literate mechanics. Many of whom are honest. Though they may all charge up to 150$ an hour or more. These mechanics may require you buy all parts through them so they can mark up parts prices.
I'm sure you've worked with these fine folks in your neighborhood:
http://www.discountimportparts.com/
I used to live in Milwaukie and Vancouver and hope to return to civilization soon. They sell all the OEM quality parts like Boge, Bosch, and so forth. Though you can find URO and APA crap also.
The engine bay mounted 25 A fuse is for the fuel system fuel system. I'm not sure, yet I believe through that single 25 AMP fuse all loads (all fuel system power consuming items and some emissions controls) come through that fuse. That 25 AMP fuse in your engine bay is electrically "upstream" of two fuses in your drive side kick panel fuse box that each connect to one of the fuel pumps.
Remove the fuse door cover and locate any fuses that indicate fuel pump. I'll bet you money, marbles, or chalk the main fuel pump fuse may look rather wonky, like it got hot. I'll also bet that fuse position contains a fuse, for the main fuel pump, that is rated far higher than the fuse rating on the fuse description label inside the fuse box cover.
Here's a 1985 Volvo 240 wiring diagram that may help. Or not.
http://www.volvowiringdiagrams.com/volvo/240%20Wiring%20Diagrams/Volvo%20240%201985.pdf
Somewhat more helpful as the much-maligned Haynes 240 manuals.
The largest load in the fuel system is the main fuel pump located on a rack under the driver side rear seat in your 240. I guess almost all 240s. Optimally, a new Bosch fuel may consume 5-10 AMPs current when running. Volvo 240s without the prone to fail engine bay mounted fuel system fuse use a 16 AMP fuse for that fuel pump. Current consumption goes up, a lot, when a condition prevents the main fuel pump from operating optimally.
I'll guess the following problems you may have:
- Your main fuel pump is beginning to fail.
- Your in-gas-tank mounted pre-fuel pump is failing or has failed or a section of fuel line inside the gas tank, that connects the in-tank pre-fuel-pump output to the top of the in-tank (fuel line that runs from the fuel tank to the in-tank prepump assembly (that assembly includes the fuel level sensor located at the top of the gas tank). An additional symptom or this failure may be hard starting and stalling when the fuel level is below half (more pronounced on 1982-1980 and older injected 240s.)
- Your fuel filter could be quite clogged if quite old requiring the fuel pumps to work harder.
- You could have a failing fuel injector pump relay. The fuel pump draws extra current through the main fuel pump injector relay causing distress and possible solder weld fractures on the haute tension side of the fuel injector relay. Grab a few extra fuel injector and other relays from you local and many Portland, OR area auto salvage yards. Try replacement relays from the junkyard. If you know how to visually inspect disassembled electrical components and can solder, you can repair any fractured solder welds by reflowing the solder, than, where possible, add additional solder to strengthen the solder weld.
You could have other issues like electrical leaks and such. The wire harness on your 1985 240 could be a wire harness designed to biodegrade over time. Usually this Volvo design defect impacts the engine wire harness primarily. As you own a 1985 240, I'll guess your or a prior owner may have replaced the engine wiring harness. This issue is well known by the Volvo 240 community. You may wish to search the brickboard for information on what to keep in mind with the biodegrading wiring harness insulation on the 1980s Volvo 240s.
Where you can start your diagnosis:
- If not already, please purchase a Bentley or other well recommended shop repair manual for your 240.
- As you indicate the engine bay mounted 25 AMP fuel systems fuse holder is melting (and I'll guess the wiring is also getting hot - a DANGEROUS condition!), inspect the two fuel pump fuses in the fuse box. Pay particular attention to the main fuel pump fuse. On the fuse box cover, that is rated at 16 A. Verify the fuses, heck, verify all fuses in your fuse box are of the proper ampacity (amperage capacity rating). (You can collect fuses for real, real, REAL cheap if you tour your local RWD or Euro import auto equipped auto salvage yard.) Again, I'll bet you main pump fuse in the fuse box looks like, and probably smells like it is getting hot. If you have an uprated fuse for the main fuel pump (above 16 AMPS, I dunno the color for that right now), then the main fuel pump is running in a less than optimal condition. Consider these components working as a system. You main fuel pump may be perfect; perhaps a Bosch replacement a some point. A fault may reside at the in-tank pre fuel pump assembly. You want to correct the faults only; not throw hundred dollar parts in a bid something may work.
- Schedule time with your trusted Portland, OR area independent Volvo mechanic and leave the 240 with them for some days. Repair may be up to 800$ or more including parts (OEM rated parts, Bosch main fuel pump and fuel filter, the AC Delco in tank fuel pump and the in tank fuel pump intake filter), yet you'll probably not have this opportunity to pay a mechanic for this repair on your 240 again.
- If your have located and corrected the fault, you may want to perform a complete inspection of the fuel system electrics. Fuel injector relay, the noise suppression relays (though you may not have an electric fan), corroded electrical connections at connectors and system grounds.
THE FOLLOWING STEPS OPEN THE FUEL SYSTEM EXPOSING YOU TO EXPLOSIVE GASOLINE.
Either observe all proper safety precautions. If you are unable to, take your 1985 Volvo 240 to your trusted mechanic.
http://www.volvomechanics.com/volvoshops/oregon/
http://www.volvomechanics.com/near/portland-or/
Verify any listed mechanic with the Better Business Bureau.
As you are in lovely Portland, OR, also check out the:
OREGON VOLVO TUNERS
http://www.ovtuners.org
"Tuning Volvos in Oregon and Beyond!"
I plan to join OVT when returning to the Portland area. They go on Volvo fleet excursions to some diner in Astoria at the crack of dawn on the occasions Sat-Your-Day. It's crazy. It's a flotilla of all things goodly Volvo with the OVT! They also do a bunch of other stuff and much longer group excursions.
Repair descriptions:
Note: As with hydraulic system repairs, fuel system repairs require a clean work area. Clean the area around the fuel system parts you mean to service. Brake parts cleaner provide a final cleaning of fuel lines and connectors just before you open them. If you get any crap in the fuel system after the fuel filter, you'll have problems.
Note: You may want to gather a few extra copper washers that seal the fuel line fittings. Though this repair is time critical for you, a trip to the salvage yard so you can inspect these assemblies, remove the in-tank fuel pump assembly and the main pump and filter assembly may help you. Heck, you may luck out like I have and find a Volvo 240 with a shiny, newly or recently replaced fuel pump. (If you do luck out like I have, clean, cut, and seal the fuel lines on the salvage yard Volvo 240 fuel components. You'll want to limit yourself to a 1984 - 1987-89 Volvo 240 with the same Bosch LH-Jetronic injection. The fuel pumps may be the same between normally aspirated (no turbo) and turbo charged 240s at least in 1984-1985 models.
1. Remove and inspect the in-tank fuel pump/fuel level sensor assembly if the main fuel pump was replaced at some point with an OEM quality pump. If you find fault here due to a failed section of fuel line from the in-tank prepump. Remove the prepump from the in-tank fuel pump/fuel level sensor. Replace the faulty fuel line. Test the in-tank-pre-pump on a twelve volt source. Does it run and sound like a healthy little +12 VDC motor? How is the little pump sock filter? Replace faulty parts.
2. Do you know when the main fuel filter was replaced? No? Some Bosch fuel filters may have a date code on them.
3. The hassle of accessing the fuel filter may motivate you to replace the fuel pump anyhoo. When looking at the main fuel filter and pump assembly located below the driver side rear seat under the 240, do you see any indication any service was performed in this area? Replace the fuel pump with a used unit known to be good or new.
Finally, as a safety step:
Inspect the large fuel line between the top of the fuel tank to the main fuel pump and filter assembly? How is that large fuel line and how are the clamps? Replace rusted clamps. Replace the fuel line section if the fuel line hose appears swollen and soft. Reassemble.
I think that does it.
Owld Volvo ownership joy and value is best realized when you, the RWD Volvo owners, are able to perform repairs yourself.
Questions?
Hope that helps.
MacDuff and his Volvo 240s three.
(Like Marvel Comics' Thor and his Warriors Three)
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Owld Volvo MacDuff - Prolonging the Expository
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Auld, owld, old things ....
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Helluva .sig.
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Only car make and model I've ever owned: Volvo 240.
Currently owned, beloved, operating, and getting better all the time(!):
1990 240 (245) DL (B230, M47 II. No bigger heart a Volvo 245 has.)
1991 240 (244) (B230, M47 II, Moonroof. Grey Market from Germany. Beloved.)
1992 240 (244) GL (B230, M47 II, L-jet 3.1, Moonroof. Turbo 240 exhaust? Why?)
RIP, yet beloved:
1975 244 DL (B20, M40. OHV B20 FOREVER! Maroon vroom-vroom! 0-60 in 3 days!)
1976 242 DL (B21, M46, Moonroof - an SRO? Wrecked near Skywalker Ranch!)
1979 245 DL (B21, M46. Cheesy mustard yellow and a rod knock in Marin County.)
1979 242 GT (B21, M46, Moonroof - an SRO? Grey Market from Holland. Beloved.)
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Pioneer SX-1500T, Pioneer SX-3700, Allied 390 or 360, and all need rehabbing.
Hopes for the awesome Pioneer SX-9000, so long as the location has good stations.
Dynaco Dynakit PAS 3 needing the full rehab shabile. 5751, 12AX7, 12AU7, 12AT7?
Not so vintage Technics SA-290. Two EQs. And seven pairs of speakers.
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Five plants: Two cacti, one ponytail palm plant, and two pothos.
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No pets, never married, no gal pal, and no children.
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Adobe: The NEW technology company monopoly. FrameMaker forever! (I hate Adobe.)
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