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The B21F in my '80 242DL is ready for major work. Uses qt. of oil every 1K miles; about 20K ago a good tablespoonful of metal chips came out with the oil drain. Doesn't use any coolant but a compression test shows major deviations. Idles with very sharp vibrations; slowly getting worse. Fuel delivery & ignition check out very well. So I want a major rebuild, whatever it needs. Question is: Can my local mechanic & machine whop do the work or should I look for a Volvo expert? He is good, competent w/lots of experience but not on red blocks. What, if anything, is unique about a red block w/the aluminum head? What would you recommend be done if I just want everything brought back to std. specs, nothing special.....just to run forever. Thanks very much.
Cal
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http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1530694/220/240/260/280/1982_b21f_red_block_given_away.html
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Considering the long life of redblocks , thus plentifull in wrecking yards or in parts cars a used engine would seem amuch more economical ,and reliable alternative.
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Rene
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Economical in the short run I agree, but in the long run? And reliable? Don't know how that could be.
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VERY reliable in the long run. Consider that if you can find a low milage B21 you are getting genuine OEM Volvo parts, not some ScanTech parts made in Cheapistan. I would do an eBay, Craigslist, etc search for a used engine and swap it out myself (to make sure it was done correctly).
But that's just me.
el Raidman
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I also firmly believe a good used unopened engine will be less risky than a rebuilt.
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Rene
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If you can perform an engine teardown and inspection on your own of your current B21F engine in poor condition, You may want to search for running replacement B21F engines.
As you are in Florida, you may have some luck finding a B21F engine of worth. Perhaps an engine someone can run for you, demonstrate good compression, and other items that perhaps confidently suggest
Could you please indicate how many miles you have on your 1980 242 DL? Is the auto body worth the cost and aggravation or an engine replacement.
"about 20K ago a good tablespoonful of metal chips came out with the oil drain." Could you describe these metal chips? An image of thee chips?
And you are losing one engine oil quart every 1000 miles. Does your 1980 B21F lose the oil in leaks or does it burn oil. I'll bet the PCV valve on your B21 F was clogged, forcing enough oil out of the sump causing a dry engine condition. Your engine is already damaged, so ....
Depending on your budget and other factors, I'd advise against performing any configuration changes on the engine. Unless required in an engine rebuild, don't bore to 2.3 liter on your B21 engine as the large displacement may require other factors (maybe higher flow injectors to start and other mods). I'm guessing a 1980 Volvo 242 DL does not need to pass an emissions inspection in Florida-state. Making changes cost more $$$ when rebuilding.
Caveat emptor in finding replacement B21 F engines of worth.
You may wish to ask your independent Volvo repair facilities in your area what machine shops of engine rebuilding service they use. Investigate whether the machine shop or engine rebuild service is honest and of quality; verify that the shop service estimates are about the same as what is actually paid.
http://www.volvomechanics.com/volvoshops/florida/
Perform your research, exhaustively.
Or you can install TransWarp drive as my green 1976 Volvo 242 DL has here in this illustration, below.
I really love the 2x2 body (242/262 DL,262 GL, not the 262 C Bertone). My fave body style is the 242 with a normally aspirated four cylinder, manual tranny with five speed or overdrive, and a moon roof. I've owned two yet don't have any, now. So, I feel your pain in wanting to keep your 1980 Volvo 242 DL. The Volvo 2x2 body is one of the truest coupes you'll find.
Hope that helps. Questions?
Expository Writer
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You said, "Volvo." Huh-huh. Huh-huh-huh.
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I bought the car in PA a little over 4 yrs. ago with 32K miles on it M45, no PS or AC; now it has 130K. Bought it because of the excellent body. My mistake was not thoroughly checking the coarseness of the engine at higher speeds. As I said the coolant was almost like mud when I ret'd. to Fla.Always used a qt of oil every 1000-1300 mis. Always suspected overheating. But it went almost 100K without any major change in performance. But now the harsh, hard idle plus all other symptons says there's a real problem somewhere. Wished I had analyzed the metal chips but didn't. Always keep the PCV valve clean; so easy to do on this one - right on top of the engine. There's no state emissions tests in Fla. My indie has a lot of trust in the rebuilding shop in Clearwater. 50 years in business.
Unless I can find a brand new B21 long block (highly unlikely)I'm going to go with the rebuild. What would be your opinion of staying with a rebuild but replacing the K-jet sym. with a Canadian B21A single carb setup? Seems it would be a lot simpler; all mechanical fuel pump & carb. Not interested in power, just decent MPG & longevity. But where would I find such a thing? Thanks very much for all your comments.
Cal
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My '79 242GT developed a bad, strange vibration at idle. We suspected a distributor shaft at first and later a major bearing problem. Swapped in a B21FT motor to make the GT what it always should have been, fast. I am not sure why the B21F's degrade, but the B21FT in my experience hardly wear at all. My 85 still had hone marks and no cylinder ridge FWIW at 150-200K.
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Hm, consider the following: if the car needs an OH, how's the rest of it? Because an OH is expensive, say around minimum a grand, probably much more and the car you got is worth, well, in the three figures (unless other sentimental reasons exist). You can acquire a fresher 240, or throw a used motor in it for much less.
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Are you thinking of a full service job like drive-in/drive-out? Or do you have the space, time, and tools to remove and disassemble yourself? There is a lot of satisfaction in assembling a new engine if you’re the type.
I agree any competent shop can do a good job. The red blocks are simple designs.
One party here or on TB said their rebuilder was having trouble finding pistons. You might want to ask about availability of parts so your car is not tied up wanting for orders to come in. Also, consider having the engine rebuilt to 2.3 liters. It is a standard configuration for the red block and should not cost any more. IPD used to offer a kit of parts for this.
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There's probably nothing about the B21 that a good mechanic and machine shop can't handle. I would first get a price quote from him and a list of what you get for your money. I would also get the same from a Volvo specialty shop and compare the two. If the Volvo shop can give you the same product for the same price, or not too much more money, I'd probably lean that way simply because they've seen a lot more Volvo engines and they're going to be a bit more savvy in terms of what parts suppliers deliver quality parts and which ones are questionable. For instance, the Chevy-Ford-Dodge mechanic is going to know where to go for quality Chevy-Ford-Dodge parts, but he may go to the same parts house and get a bunch of Scantech junk for your engine.
As far as workmanship, my guess is that either mechanic is capable of a top notch rebuild, and at the same time, either one is capable of a total screw up - maybe a little less chance with the Volvo mechanic.
Which ever way you go, be ready to spend some serious dough.
Just my opinion.....
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Any competent mechanic/technician/machinist will appreciate the simplicity and robustness of a red block motor be it the OHV or OHC type. -- Dave
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