The A/C in my 62 needs to be recharged. Sometime before it left California-maybe at Planetman's shop-it was converted to R134, or at least the fittings on the compressor were changed to accommodate R134.

It appears, however, that the accumulater/dryer was not changed as it says something about it's being meant for R12 on it's worn label. The brand name "Parker" is still visible as well. It is black, about 2 inches in diameter and about 6 inches high. The observation glass sits directly on top with the hose connections flanking it.

According to the local parts guy this accumulator is weird because it's hoses are attached to the system with only hose clamps and not with fittings. Hose clamps are used at the compressor as well. His suggestion was to find another, complete system at a junk yard and retrofit it. This may be an option down the long road, but before I do something totally insane I'd like to know if anyone else has encountered this problem and what they did about it.

r134 is less dense than r12 so will find a way out faster

Definitely replace it to one with fittings. Refrigerant will leak through hose clamp fittings every time.

I'd agree that fittings would be best---but back when these cars were new A/C was installed either at the port--or at the dealership (even Mercedes) and clamped connections were the norm. The clamps probably have a little arm with a hook to set the position from the end. I was flabbergasted when I worked at Honda ('80-'81) over how much more sophisticated their "kit" was (great money maker for the technician working at flat rate) compared to European cars installations. -- Dave

Hello,

The original Volvo and aftermarket A/C kits for the early cars came with bulk hose and the special hose clamps with an extra arm/hook and this configuration ALWAYS leaked.

Back when R12 was cheap and the world was ignorant to its effects on the environment, the engineers were not concerned about R12 containment.

So it was not unusual to need to have the A/C recharged every year.

As long as we have been in business(1983), we have recommended to all our customers with bulk hose and clamp style A/C lines, to convert to at least crimped hose fittings.

Or even better, covert to oring style fittings along with new hoses with crimped connections.

The early original fittings used a single flare pipe connection at the compressor and at the evaporator which do not seal very well.

And to make matters worse, the R134a molecule is even smaller that the R12 and hence will leak even more with the old style bulk hose and clamp system.

Converting both to oring fittings with crimped hoses can be expensive as the evaporator and the condenser have to be replaced or modified at the same time.

IIRC, the receiver-dryer in hairy-apples 1962, was a later style dryer that uses oring fittings that had to be converted with fittings and some tubing so the old style bulk hose could be used.


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Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502

Thanks for chiminig in Eric. I have no desire to pollute the planet anymore than I already have.

The concensus seems to be that a radical departure from what I have is in order. How about a few specifics on how I need to proceed? For instance can you suggest or supply an accumulator to start? Is it just a matter of adapting the ports for the hoses on the old condenser to the new fittings or is it more than that. How about at the compressor, there are clamps there as well. As I said the ports for the freon charging equipment have already been converted.

Sorry to be so stupid but what part exactly is the evaporator?

Is trying to convert what I have the smart way to go? I also wonder if the unit that contains the blower etc and mounts to the bottom of my dash can still be used if the other equipment is modified?

I have a cousin who is a vending machine mechanic/restoration guy and therefore has access to freon of all types and all types of refrigeration components, fittings, hoses, silver soldering equipment etc. So that part might not be so bad and I just put some new sills in his house for free.

Hello,

The evaporator is the heat exchanger like the heater core except the evaporator gets cold.

The evaporator is located inside the underdash unit and this can be removed and modified by welding on fittings.

I would suggest using a new condenser if you have the old original copper with aluminum fins, but it can also have fittings welded to the existing tubing.

You can find replacement fittings for the York compressor that are compatible with the oring fittings for the hoses from later Volvos that still used the York compressor.

Also make sure you have the correct expansion valve for R134a as they are different than valves for R12.

Now if we were doing the job for you, we would suggest that you have us install a new aftermarket underdash unit with a more efficient evaporator with the correct expansion valve.

Unless you insisted on having an original Volvo FridgeKing unit, in which case we would have your evaporator fittings changed.

We would suggest that you have a custom condenser built with higher efficiency construction for maximum heat exchanging for the refrigerant along with the largest high output electric cooling fan or a pair of high output fans.

A new Sanden rotatory style compressor along with a new mounting bracket would also be recommended along with all new custom made crimped hoses with oring fittings be fabricated and installed.

We also like to install a cut off switch, most preferably a trinary switch that will shut off the power to the compressor when the pressure is too low, too high or when the refrigerant gets too hot.

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Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502

A Sanden 507 is a better way to go. The Sanden can handle around 6000 rpm. The York does not like to go above 3000 rpm. It may whip the refrigerant around so fast that you can loose cooling effect at higher rpm. The Sanden draws less power away from the engine to operate.

The 507 is available on eBay for $154, new. However the model that supercedes this is the 508A, $185 at Nostalgic Air. But for the same money they also offer the Sanden 709 which they say is about the same size and supposedly is more efficient. Do you have any knowledge of these other 2 offerings?

Hello,

There are several ways to attach a Sanden to your B20.

If you have the set up that uses the original York compressor brackets along with a additional adapter bracket, then I would suggest you upgrade to a better compressor bracket.

The 507 has a different spacing for the mounting ears, so it will not fit a bracket for a 508.

The 709 can use the same bracket as a 508. It has a little more capacity and has 7 pistons instead of 5 pistons, so it might be more efficient.
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Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502

Do you have the right bracket for the 709? Does more efficient equal less drag on the engine? The price of the 709 is the same as the 508, at Nostalgic Air. The 508 seems to have superceded the 507. I went online to the place you suggested but, for me, the site was not as easy to use.

Hello,

The mounting dimensions are the same as the 508.

And I do have a bracket for a B20 in stock.
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Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502

Do you have the right bracket for the 709? Does more efficient equal less drag on the engine? The price of the 709 is the same as the 508, at Nostalgic Air. I went online to the place you suggested but, for me, the site was not as easy to use. This number seems to have superceded the 507.

Who sells an aftermarket evaporator unit that will fit in a 122, and preferably be smaller than original Volvo FridgeKing unit?

Eric, what unit do you recommend and can you supply it and Sanden mount?

Hello,

You can find slightly smaller inexpensive evaporator units on ebay.

Since I have not used those on ebay, I can not say how well they will fit or to the quality.

Unless you happen to find a Vintage Air Mini Slim Line, which is a little smaller than the FridgeKing and IIRC the fan motor is located further back which gives a little more clearance for the passengers legs getting in and out of that seat.

We used the "Cool only" unit that does not have a heater option.

We always want to sell a part that is sourced through a reputable company so that if there is a problem it will be handled professionally.

Vintage Air has been in business for a long time and the evaporator we installed is still working more than 5 years later.

My only complaint with that unit is it should have a separate outlet for a hose to supply an in dash or under dash remote vent that is mounted closer to the driver.

What engine do you have, B18 or B20?

The Sanden compressor brackets we use are different for the B18 and B20.

I happen to have the B18 version in stock and I am about to order the B20 bracket next week.
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Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502

Me again, Do you think that whatever brackets I have that are holding the existing Sanden in pllace will be the same as the ones that you supply for the Sanden/B20 setup? Do you have a photo of the ones you are using? The Sanden 507 as recommended in an earlier response is available on eBay, new, for $154 w/free shipping, might not be worth trying to adapt the old Sanden with new fittings for the hoses.

The condensor size. Since I have no idea how to size a condenser correctly, can I just assume a modern condenser of similar size (wxhxthickness) or slightly larger, as long as it fits within the dimensions of the existing radiator, will have equal or better capacity?

How is the drier sized? To the compressor or to the condenser?

This car has a B20B engine. Installed c1994, as far as I know. It is a Volvo factory rebuild. There is a placque riveted on the block with some of the re-build information on it. Someone has already added a single prop electric fan (Airflow 14-111B1, cust pm 20834) forward of the condenser (copper tube w/aluminum fins) and the radiator. This fan is controlled by an aquastst mounted in the top (return?) hose of the radiator and wired thru a Bosch relay (0332204150).
I would opt for a non-heater type unit, as my heater works fine and I never use the car once the roads start getting spread with salt and sand. This past winter being an exception due to the rather warm weather and lack of any snow, or rain for that matter. The car has an alternator.

Local junk yards are not user friendly. One cannot show up with a tool box and wander around looking for spares, the insurance industry has pretty much put an end to that. So all new parts are in order.

The main component parts of the existing system seem to be the compressor (Sanden, U5742 for R12, but ports have been converted. It also boasts a Peterbilt part # 18-03536, serial # 020 801 038 71), condenser, accumulator (Parker), evaporator (no maker's name is visible), plus assorted hoses. All hoses are attached with hose clamps but not the type described with a hook.

The condenser and the electric fan are mounted to the front of the radiator. It's a close fit as the fan shroud bumps up against the sheetmetal that houses the hood catch. The fan looks to be mounted to the condenser with a pair of clips that pass thru the condenser fins and act like molly bolts do in a plaster wall. The condenser is not a pretty thing, bent fins etc. This is mostly cosmetic.

What and/or who produces custom codensers? What materials comprise a contemporary condenser?

Parts wise, what might I you expect a new system would run? If my first choice was not to replace everything in the system, what would your priorities be, starting from must do to optional? Have you enough information to go on to access that? Lets assume that all fittings and hoses will be modernized, no matter what.

I appreciate all yor help, as your experience will ultimately save me a lot of research and more importantly a lot of costly errors.

Hello,

It sounds like you have the compressor that you need, unless it is leaking, damaged or irreversibly modified to accept only push on hose with hose clamps.

If the condenser is connected with modified fittings like the accumulator/receiver dryer fittings, you might be able to reuse it as well.

So if the above are true, all you might need is a new evaporator, a new accumulator/receiver dryer and all new custom made hoses.
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Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502

Hi Eric, thanks for your reply, I lost track of the thread and only today organized, in my head, the replys/queries by date as they are not in that order on the site.

The compressor seems fine and I believe the push on fittings are replaceable. The condenser just needs the right fittings silver soldered on to solve that problem. Replacing the dryer-that's the easiest part. The existing evaporator is clunky, blocks the glove shelf and leaves veruy little room for the passengers legs. So even if it working, I think I'll look into a more contemporary model.

If I read you right, you are saying that the compresser I have, if in working order and adaptable to new hose fittings, is okay. Is there any advantage to replacing the old Sanden R12 model with a new Sanden 508 or 709? If there is, is one a better choice than the other? Do I understand you that the bracket for 508 or 709 to the B20B is the same?

Hello,

If you need to replace your old compressor, a 709 will fit the same bracket as a 508.

The 709 may be a little more efficient, but is usually more expensive.
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Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502

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