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Radio problem 200

Working on the radio/cassette deck from a 1991 240 sedan.

My radio works great on the AM but when I change it to the FM band it gets extremely quiet. If you turn the volume all the way up you can hear it but not very well.

I pulled the radio out and and if I wiggle the round plug around the volume will return but why would the round plug (I assume its the speaker input plug) work great with AM and not FM?

Is there a way to replace the plug if there is a short inside somewhere? I started to split the wire and see how many wires were inside and there are several but they are all individually wrapped with copper strands....Is it possible to re wire this? Or is it best to just replace the whole wire?

If I need to replace the whole wire/plug combo where does it lead to from the back of the radio?

Otherwise AM is fine but sometimes I get sick of hearing Rush whenever I get in the car.....LOL.








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Radio problem 200

Hi Indy452,

Do you mean the stock radio that came in your fabulous, if awesome, 1991 240?

Do you mean the Alpine built TD-613 with the remote 4x20 amp mounted to the aft of the lower courtesy (or accessory) cubby?

The round plug around the volume? Do you mean you have pulled the TD-613 (if that is the model) from the dash, while it remains plugged in, and what exactly are you wiggling that changes the FM volume? Yet the AM volume is strong no matter what?

I've read and it seems, as I had the (kittys) grey 1991 240 (volvo) "came in the car" TD-613 croak a miserable death. Like yours, FM went first, so no radio KDHX FM88.1 (www.kdhx.com) while motoring to and from Speedway Salvage (http://www.speedway.ws/) in East St. Louis as well as hitting a few other yunkyards on Some Sat-Your-Days.

The AM went next. No St. Louis KMOX clear channel AM 1120.

It may be broken solder welds someplace. At some point, diodes or (less likely) capacitors in the antennae circuit fail. Your wiggling, however, suggests intermittent continuity. I still have my TD-613 yet it is boxed up. If you are up to it, you may need to move the covers, use a strong magnifying glass or jeweler's loupe and give a good look under strong light of the board to which the aerial (or antenna) plug is solder to.

You can switch from the AM to FM tuner using the faceplate controls. The preamp receives the signal from the AM tuner, or FM tuner, or cassette player. From the preamp, the then line level audio signal is routed through the tone controls and then the volume, balance, fader control. The audio signal, then, leaves your Volvo Radio TD-613 and travels out the six pin DIN connector through the black cable to the little 4x20 amp located in the lower dash, behind the lower glove cubby (or accessory compartment), and then out through the speakers.

So, if I interpret you meaning, the AM signal audio is fine and all is well through all for speakers. You can control AM audio tone, volume, balance, and fader through all four speakers, yes? Yet FM is the problem and if you wiggle something, it seems to work until you move it again.

If you understand component level printed circuit design, you may be able to look really close and find a broken solder weld at some diode, or at some junction where wires terminating at a connector connect one PC board to another (you have I think two PC board in a TD-613).

If this is too much a bother for you, it may be time for a replacement. The TD-613 is not well made and fraught with problems as it ages; certainly in hot weather areas.

If you are unable to repair your TD-613, you can go to a local junkyard and may get lucky to find of of the newer Alpine Volvo single DIN radios from a RWD Volvo like a 700 or 900 that would about drop right in. CR-816 is a model that comes to mind, yet you may need some hardware from a car stereo dealer to secure the CD-814 to the front face plate. A TD-6141 may also work, though front faceplate is more integrated to the 700 series dash front and require modification.

Crutchfield is an online outlet many brickboarders advocate. If you go after market, please use the extant Volvo wire harness that came in your Volvo. Crutchfield and others, as well as eBay vendors, provide wire harness adapters to connect the 1991 Volvo 240 wire harness to an after market radio. The Volvo wire harness, certainly on a 1991 and newer, is durable, a heavier gauge higher quality stranded copper than most after market speaker wire you may use. You can use solder-less crimps to secure the wire harness adapters to the Volvo stereo wire harness. You can also rid yourself of the small lower accessory cubby that barely holds a pair of glove or sunglasses for the older style and deeper radio cage you find on, perhaps, 1988 and older 240. Or you can mount yoru stereo in the lower compartment and install a high mount accessory that is deeper.

If your front doors still have the HT-204 speakers, you can reuse the mounts and the covers. You may need to re-secure the metal mesh to the covers using an adhesive like Goop Marin or RV (UV resistant). I successfully installed a used Coustic model HS-522a 5.25" (5 1/4") speakers in the HS-204 speaker mounts on my 1990 Volvo 240. If you find an image of these speakers, like many Pioneer car speakers, you'll note the speaker frame securing mounts are open. You sort of have to mount them off-center a bit and care fully bend the open anchors a bit and are then able to secure them into the HT-204 Volvo front door speaker mounts. If you remove the HT-204 speaker mounts, your only option is a 4" speaker secured to the press board inner door material. The small the speaker, the less the resonance, and less full range.

If in your 1991 240 your rear speakers are rear door mounted (like my 1991 240 sedan) or rear hat shelf mounted (like my 1992 240 GL sedan), you have some different options. The rear door speaker cut outs are scored at the factory in the press board. While your 1991 240 came with the same speakers that come mounted in the Volvo factory OEM HT-204 front door speaker mounts, the rear speaker mounts come with a plastic grille through. The mounting hardware centers on the Volvo speaker dimensions. You are limited to four inch speakers unless you enlarge the rear door speaker whole. The rear door power window regulator hardware (if equipped, and I'll bet you have power windows in your 1991 240) limits rear door speaker depth and position.

If you have rear speakers mounted to the rear hat shelf, these are the same speakers in the front door factory equipped HT-204 speaker mounts. These 1991 240 Volvo factory rear hat shelf speakers are also, for your purpose, the same plastic speaker grilles used on the rear 240 door factory speaker mounted grilles. However, as the rear hat shelf speaker secure to the press fiber board rear hat shelf, you can install much larger speakers through you'll need to reposition and enlarge the the whole to accommodate the speakers. After you complete rear hatch shelf speaker hole position and size, use butyl rubber, sound dampening mat with adhesive on both sides, and perhaps use some hardware to better secure the rear hat shelf to the metal underneath so you eliminate any unwanted vibration and harmonics when you use your stereo.

Hope that helps. Questions?

Sorry to go on so. I was rejected for a contract technical writer job, and then contacted for an interview, and when I made replied to the HR person making mention I received an automated rejection notice a day prior, she said she'd get back to me as to whether the hiring manger wanted me or not. So, here we are, 24 hours later, and no word. Oh, I got a reply. Well, hold on for the drama, folks. At least I shaved a few dayze ago.

cheers,

MacDuff and his jobless go no place and ride with no one Volvo 240s.
--
.sig. No more clever .sig guy on brickboard than Uncle Art B. near Baltimore.







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