Hello All,

Car is getting body work and paint....

I was surprised that there was a lot of filler under the paint, so it's all getting stripped and blasted with the wet look.
My question is should I have my glass taken out and redo seals all around or wait till after paint?

Any other suggestions before the paint goes on?

Thanks
greendread

Do yourself a favor and remove all of the glass and outside trim. Yes, it is a pain to put back in, but the rubber is old and in need of replacement anyway.

Also, remove the panels on the inside top of the doors. They are probably scratched and could use a new coat.

If you are repainting the engine bay, take off the hood, clean the underside and paint that to match.

I wish my 'funds' bucket was as deep as yours...

Klaus
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My name is Klaus and I am a V ♂ lv ♂ holic

Klaus,

I can't tell you how broke I am :) But I've been saving every other nickle and dime to get the car to a reasonable point. I found hard working body guy to do some body work and "wet look" paint job for $1,500. paying it off a hundred a week is slow going but nearly there. in the 8 years I've owned the 120 I've spent more on parking tickets than I have in total cost of ownership of the car.

After losing my beloved golden brick 855 I decided it was time to get the 120 the respect its due. Body and paint is a start. Then appraisal for classic tags and insurance. So the next time a jerk bashes into my parked car insurance will actually cover it. It's been three long years, and I can't wait to drive it again!

cheers,
greendread

You'll definitely get better results if you have the glass, interior, and engine, wiring, etc. out of the vehicle before you have it repainted. Blue tape to protect everything during reassembly will become your friend. Glad to see another 122 being resurrected!

The better the prep, the better the paint job.

Personally I'd want to pull it all prior to paint.

It'll give you a more thorough paint job AND if there happens to be anything hiding under those seals (around my area it would be rust) then you'll catch it ahead of time.

I agree to spend the time and take out your windows and renew the rubber seals. If your Amazon was exposed to winter salt (Philadelphia?) the chances are the rust has already started and you'll see the rust form around the front cowl. If you do wait, I think you'll find rust and it will be more difficult to match to your paint job. You also run the risk of damaging the body when you remove the old seals. Here's a link to my 1960 Amazon-S restoration. I changed the color of my Amazon-S inside and out, so the extra work to mask off the windshields might have been better spent looking after the rust and hardened seals.







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Cam a.k.a. CVOLVO.COM

Hello All,

Yes, I am in Philadelphia... the photo was surely helpful!

Is that parts box a stock item?

No, the original owner, from Moose Jaw, Saskatchewan built and added it himself. It's made from a cheese box, with dove tailed joints, an aluminum latching cover and uses a bicycle spoke to hold the lid open. That's where I keep my 6 volt spare lights, my original Floyd Clymer repair manual and some basic tools.

I wondered if it was original as well, since the space above the clutch/brake pedal housing is otherwise wasted. The previous owner tracked this 1960 122-S Swedish assembly to April of 1960. My restoration remained stock, except for the bumperettes, the dash grab bar, tachometer and changing the colour from California White to the two-tone 46 red with the light gray roof. I was fortunate that the interior matched my new colour scheme.
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Cam a.k.a. CVOLVO.COM