My daughter came home from collage last week a stated that (VINNEY) her 87 wagon was acting up. (Vinny should not be confused with vonney my 92 wagon that has a 5 speed)
It was starting off in 2ng gear and wating way too long to go to 3rd.
I lubed the kickdown cable and did a fluid change as described in this fourm.
BIG! improvement on the shifting but it still will not go to first when stopped
at a redlight.
you can pull it down to 1st and back to drive and it will do just fine untill you stop again

what now
Thanks
halbo

Out of curiousity did you do a ATF fluid change or a complete flush? I'm not clear on this point.

If you haven't done a thorough flush you might try doing that. Buy the cheapest fluid you can find and run at least 10-15 quarts through it and then refill with a quality ATF. I would consider using synthetic ATF for the refill. IMHO - it's worth the extra money and it might solve your problem. It's certainly a lot cheaper than tranny work.

Another option to consider is treating your tranny with AutoRx (AutoRx.com). Another poster on this board was having problems with his AW70. He did a flush and used AutoRx and that fixed his problem. Your problem might simply be gunk in the tranny that is affecting shifting. Using synthetic ATF and/or AutoRx might clean it out.

Check out this URL for more info.

http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1520232/220/240/260/280/1990240_transmission_update_autorx.html

yes did a flush by pumping it out the rad. return line went through 3 gal.
may try the additive next

Thanks

jwalker-

I remember that post too.

I wonder if Larue's trans is still working well?

Travis

Hello Bricksters,
My tranny is doing good. The 3rd to 4th shift problem is gone completly. It is shifting very smootly and predictably. I did the drain and refill recently.
Im using dyno fluid. I just couldnt justify spending over 100 bucks for the synth. Just cheap.

Larue

Larue,

As it long as it's working well that's great!

I still wonder if it was the AutoRX or the flush that fixed it? Or maybe it was the combination of the two?

Jim

i would have just replaced the kickdown cable before doing the flush. they are cheap and easy enough to replace, but you have to drop the tranny pan which is why i would've done it with the flush. once the kickdown starts to stick, in my opinion it's best to simply replace it. i got mine for under 30 dollars and car shifts perfectly now, even though i lubed and adjusted the hell out of the old one to no avail.

No offense meant, really, but does your car have a tach? I'm asking because it can be hard to tell if you're starting in 2nd gear or first (given the torque multiplication of the Torque Converter) unless you're either checking your tach (at a high enough speed to get any useful or meaningful reading to compare to your speedometer, given the slippage in the TC).

I have a tack in one of my 240,s just not this one.
the reason i know It satrts of on second when i come to a stop if i pull the lever into low i feel it go into first.
I can then put it back into drive 3 take off and it will shift out perfect.
This has to be done after each stop,
Also when It is cold It dosent want to come out of first .
After it goes a mile or so it will shift great with the exception of not going to first when I stop.
If you put it in reverse and then in drive 3 it will go to first
most of all I want to know what Im up against if i have to take it to a shop
Thanks

Probably not it, but on my 93 940 it started acting up in a similar fashion ..especially the "waiting way too long to go to 3rd".

I adjusted the kickdown cable as I thought was right ...some improvement ...drove it that way for weeks.

Finally carried into an indie shop close by. He adjusted the cable properly and it was back to normal.

For me I have been at the place where the simple fix was the answer ...and I just missed it.

I messed it up ..yes, but I have no idea what got it out of kilter to start with.

I wish you well. OH ..one day I plan to get my 10 year old into a 240 (when she is of age, of course). Slower and solid..best way for a new driver!

:)




--
"Do you think that's air you're breathing now'? (The Matrix 1999) '89 764 (retired), '94 940T (319K), 92 245 (207K)

Thanks Andwew :
Not sure If its the Cable or not
Might try it next,just dont trust tranny shops.
never had a good experence with one.
By the way I live in Grand bay

I agree about auto trans shops. This was a local indie shop.

There is directions for this in the 700/900 FAQs. I thought I followed them when I made the attempt myself. The tech said I had it it so tight it could have snapped.

He was right. Me ...padawan ...realized still much to learn!

:)
--
"Do you think that's air you're breathing now'? (The Matrix 1999) '89 764 (retired), '94 940T (319K), 92 245 (207K)

Wrong posting ...sorry.


--
"Do you think that's air you're breathing now'? (The Matrix 1999) '89 764 (retired), '94 940T (319K), 92 245 (207K)

hi sages- read this thread and thought it would be a good opportunity for a discussion on modern automotive shysterism. a while back in my weekend shadetree mechanic garage with a few friends, one asked what were the best opportunities for clip joint dealers or independent mechanics to take you to the cleaners. without hesitation i said automatic trans malfunctions and welding. while many problems with the auto trans can be remedied with a cheap fix, the complexity of this toy offers a superior opportunity for a crumb to pull a scam. it goes something like this- hmmmm leaking trans must be seals ,have to take the trans out to replace them trans has to come apart, while in there might as well replace every gear, clutch , snap ring, etc, , will give you a good price , only $3000, will run like a champ for 100k. most fall for this because the operation and repair of the auto trans is a mystery for all. welders can be just as bad although my uncle moe says they are worse. once a welder soaked me for $150 for an arc weld that took 6 minutes .heres another, crook service manager once told me it would take $2k to repair my slow shifting plymouth torqueflite. got under there myself, saw an external part called a modulator was dripping atf. replaced it for $8, end of problem. when i question these jockies i get the standard spiel on how big and difficult the job is or their machine to do it costs $300k.. given volvo dealer reputations for phat homeruns with phat paychecks ill bet they are the worst. would love to hear you chime in on your expriences and whether i have a bad tude or just have seen too much. thanks tons oldduke

I think you are on to something.
Thats the reason I ask lots of questions

My AW70 that's in my GT is doing the same thing. Will be watching this to see if there is a good solution to this.