Just finished this on my 93 945 na. Follow all the tips suggested, especially the bag and tag. I used zip lock bags and labelled with marker. Don't disconnect anything from the intake manifold, undo nuts and tie it back a couple of inches (remove tranny dip stick) so its out of the way. Use cheater bar to undo head bolts. Use lot of penetrating oil on exhaust stud nuts over a few days, before trying to remove with socket, give each a good whack or 2 with a dull chisel and hammer to break rust bond. Clean threads on head bolts and oil thread and underside of head before install and torque. Forget the angle gauge from AutoZone as it did not work for me on this application. Mark zero spot and a 90 degree spot and turn to the 90 degree spot.

All of my exhaust nuts came undone (great), but upon retorque at assembly one broke (not great). I'd suggest biting the bullet and simply replacing all 8 studs. Soak with penetrating oil for a day or 2, double nut and spin off.

I resurfaced head and replace at least the heater hose that attaches under the intake mani (I did both) and get Volvo ones, not the A/M ones sold by everyone. The difference between a 25 buck and a 4 buck hose is real!

Good luck,

Mike

I just did this on a '93 turbo a couple of weeks ago: check my recent thread about removing the head without dropping the turbo - saves a ton of time. The key is to get as many studs out as you can from the exhaust manifold side, especially before reinstallation. And then of course making sure exhaust manifold gaskets are in place before you put everything together again.

My head was in amazing shape for 290k. Didn't send it to be re-finished, but really cleaned up the surfaces with carb cleaner and a soft rag. Also replaced all hoses/tstat/heater valve with OEM - the heater hoses are especially easy with the head off, and should be done no matter what.

Highly recommend replacing the heater hoses while you have the head off. I replaced almost everything I had access to while I was in there (aside from the knock sensor). Crank position sensor is a piece of cake with the head off :P

It was pretty straightforward work for me - hardest part was getting the block gasket surface clean. I sent the head to a machine shop, and had them do: valve seals, resurfacing (10 thou! jeez..), checked the valves and seats for wear while they were out, and two spark plug thread heli-coils. All for $220.

I guess the hardest part for me was limiting the "do it while you are in there" stuff haha. Almost pulled the pistons and did rings lol.

Mike

Spray the exhaust manifold nuts a couple days in advance with a penetrant.
To get mine off, I used a closed-end wrench of the proper size and tapped it with a hammer, broke the bond nicely, no broken studs, and reused the nuts.
i.e. use impact instead of brute force to avoid snapping a stud.

I managed to remove and re-install my head without taking off the timing belt at the lower end - so everything bottom end stayed in place. I tied it stretched with a rope and held it in place and then slid it back on after the head was reinstalled.
But that's up to you maybe you need a new timing belt and all seals while at it.

I cleaned up the surfaces with a fine steel wool. I also re-used the same top seal for the water pump where it meets the head, just put some fresh sealant over it where it meet the head.

Good idea to change the cam seal, they tend to go first and you are there. same for the rear seal-plug.

I also broke my 17mm (I think) socket taking off the head bolts. It was a quality piece. So make sure you have a good socket and rachet set. Torque to specs.

Can;t remember much more, it was almost 8 years ago...


Greg
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Greg Mustang - www.volvoclassic.bravehost.com

Ive done this recently and the biggest problem I ran into was a couple exhaust studs broke off. I happened to have tap/dyes to repair, but that was the biggest issue with the job. Other than that its really quite simple and easy to do.

Just follow the FAQ and ask questions and you will get through it. I'm almost done with my first and suggest the following:

1. Take pictures as you go so that you see where things go back.
2. Bag and tag parts and bolts as you take them off.
3. Might be worth buying an angle gage from IPD or somewhere since the head bolts and the main pulley have a torque plus angle specification.
4. Good time to renew things like hoses, thermostat, water pump, and accessory bushings.

Good luck!

Brian Mee
90 240 DL
91 240
92 945T