I have an 82 240 (k-jet)(with white dist cap)(M46 O.D) with 355K on the clock, that almost starts, it has the symptoms of a f/p relay where it sounds like it wants to start, but isn't getting enough gas.
This problem was a sudden onset, with no apparent warning(s)

I checked the in tank pump and the connector hose, I can hear both pumps running, and when I remove the out bound fitting from the fuel filter, it spews a steady stream.
I replaced the f/p relay with a known good, there is no joy. checked the plugs and replaced the wires, looked at the dist cap, rotor.
I am thinking there is a wire come loose from somewhere i can't see or am not currently familiar with. The wiring around the starter is somewhat frightening, and has been surgically altered to compensate for a combination of the previous owner's "adaptations" (like his welding the trans cross member to the frame) and the mother of invention, my son drives the car, and is out of the house to school, and then work from 0430 til 2000 five days a week, bout 110 miles a day.
So now he has my car(86 240 M46 OD).
If someone could direct me to a decent wiring diagram, I can forage for information with some idea of what i'm talking about.
I have been looking in the FAQ's and archives but haven't narrowed the search down enough to do me any real good so far.
Your assistance is as always greatly appreciated.
Paul

Hello,

Having the same car please read my old post, it might help:

I have an 82 MPG with Chrysler ignition (white distributor cap) and it does not have a Ballest resistor. The voltage comes from fuse post 11 (hot side) to a 2 plug connector on the passenger firewall (blue wire) and then it goes to the coil term #15 (brown wire) via a 1 plug connector. I have had two occasions in the last ten years were that connectors has corroded out and blocked the 12volts to the coil. When I cleaned the connectors, the car ran great. This connector is located were the ballest used to be according to my Volvo green book. Find that connector and clean it up. It seems to be a problem unique to 82.In addition the brown wire runs to the starter terminal before it gets to the coil so might want to check that terminal also. Hope that helps.

I might add if you place a direct feed of 12volts on lug 15 of the coil and the car starts the above may be your problem. Good luck

Mario
--
82 242 DL-MPG

Last week we put a new clutch cable on the beast. Somewhere in the process we knocked off a wire from some where on the starter. Looking at what the previous owner left us to deal with in this area, I am going to need some help, identifying what wires go where, on the starter.
Any idea how different an 86 240's (w/manual trans)starter/ fuel pump relay wiring might be? I have an 82,84,two 86's and a 94 240 one of the 86's is an automatic and has become a parts donor as a result of a collision, the 84 also had a terminal affliction and can be used for donor parts and anatomical studies.
I have the green books for my current 86(came with the car) but the wiring diagrams for these details is very disappointing.
Given the condition of the wiring it would probably be a better idea to pull wire from the cabin to the motor and lose the problems the bad wiring is going to cause me in this area.
As an aside what makes the f/p relay from an 82(k-Jet) different from an 86 LH-Jetronic?
Thanks for the help so far, it is greatly appreciated.
Paul

Hello,

The wire to the coil might go through a connector on the starter. The brown wire runs from the connector on the passenger side to the coil through the starter connector. Just take a 12volt feed from the battery and connect it to the coil terminal that has the brown wire. The 82 does not use any ballast resistor, so the wire is a direct feed. If this solves the problem it means the voltage to the coil is being diminished by loose or corroded connection. You can use the car this way temporally but since this is not fused or switched on by the ignition switch it can create a hazard. This problem came on suddenly with my car and drove me crazy for a few days since it is not well defined in the green book.

As far as the FP relay, in the K-jet FP relay there is a tach sensor built in that reads ignition pulses. No pulses no relay operation. In electronic fuel injections this is done by the ECU which activates the FP relay. I believe this is a red/white wire from the ignition module on both cars. Good luck.

Mario
--
82 242 DL-MPG

found a legible wiring diagram, and it looks like the r/w white comes from the ignition switch, and goes to the cold start valve through a thermal timer.
One of the previous posts on this thread talked about the brown wire going through the coil on its way to the coil.
I will address this tomorrow, it is raining cats and dogs here, and i've got to go in early to work today.
An aside
I have the green books, for 86 240's (US) i will gladly scan anything needed til, i can get the time to scan it and put it on a photo share site.
Thanks again for all of the help so far.
Paul

this will help you

Volvo_Problem_Solver_--_Advanced_Edition(1).pdf

https://files.me.com/dustinl.c/le9rdc

no file found

that's curious.

I just downloaded the entire 242 page pdf

pasting the link into a browser window pops up and Open or Download dialogue box

I'm using firefox.

http://www.volvowiringdiagrams.com
try that on for size.
i downloaded all i needed and had no problem. if needed e-mail me at darnringhtivegottheblues@gmail.com and I will send them to you

thanks, I picked that up from your other post for the Wiring Diagrams.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From the PROBLEM SOLVER Section 28 sheet 507

1981-82 Starts and Dies Problem;

A strange running problem can exist inthe 81-82 MPG Ignition System.
It can be any one or a comination of the following:
+starts and dies
+starts and poor idle
+starts and poor accel
+starts amd engine dies he you go to accel


The engine acts like it is not getting enough fuel. Actually the ingnition is not getting enough current to Terminal #15 of the coil.

The wire that supplues the current to term #15 of the coil comes from the pigtail connection on the blue wire by the right hood hinge, goes thru the engine main harness plug, to the starter ignition bypass terminal on the solenoid, then to the coil.
You can easily check this by jumping from the battery Postive term to the coil term #15

If the engine now runs normally the connections along the way for the brown wire are bad.


=========================

Fuel inj Relays

Testing 1978 - 0n K-jet

Section 11 - sheet 041

MPG computer controlled igniton Fault Tracing

Section 11 sheet 501

"As an aside what makes the f/p relay from an 82(k-Jet) different from an 86 LH-Jetronic?"

Not much similarity other than 6 terminals each

K-jet relay has one coil and powers:
pumps,
Lambda relay,
Aux Air Valve heater,
CPR/WUR heater

LH2.2 relay is really two separate relays:
ONE for:
pumps,
O2 sensor heater,
Injectors,
Idle Air Control valve

the OTHER for:
AMM (pin 5)
ECU (pin 9)


--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

first things first
found this today
http://www.volvowiringdiagrams.com/?dir=volvo/240%20Wiring%20Diagrams
Site has a bounty of 240 diagrams, including the one for the 82.
Any way no joy on the car running yet. We cleaned up the old decrepit wiring, and replaced as needed. I have spark, but the pumps don't run when the starter is engaged, when i jump he 5/7 fuses the pumps run but it won't start.
Any further ideas would be appreciated, i' back where i was last week. Wondering if i got the wrong relay?
Le me know if you have any further bright ideas.
Paul

Always more to it then seems apparent.
Thanks

Hope this helps some:

if any one has an applicable wiring diagram / schematic for an 82 240 I would be grateful.
Paul

how do you embed pictures in your posts?

the top brown wire(s) go to the coil from the connector on the firewall ?
And the blue and yellow wires go to? From?
Nice picture, thanks, i have an obstructed view, form some K-Jet intake part. y view is mostly Braille.
let you know how it goes.
Paul

Describe " Almost Starts"

Kicks and spits to let you know it has spark and some gas??

Or just cranks
Or will run horribly on it's own for a second or two before stalling
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/

the answer i gave may be misleading.
When i push the start switch, the i can hear the in tank pump start, and the motor then makes all the appropriate noises of starting w/o any untoward sounds, it just won't catch and run.
The main pump runs when voltage is applied to the terminals. I am kneeling outside the d/s door and can't hear it run when the starter is turning.
Would it be of any use to jump the harness, with the relay in place?
The car needs an intake boot as there is a small crack in it, but the car has started for six months with that particular issue.
I would gladly pay for a hard / no start algorithm /book / tattoo / web site
All help thankfully gratefully acknowledged.
Paul

Have you looked at www.k-jet.org ?

-Jesse
'82 242DL,
'73 1800ES
'96 855T

" Would it be of any use to jump the harness, with the relay in place?"
• Yes -- if it starts with the relay bypassed, you know where the problem is. The common relay bypass method is to jumper wire a connection between the LEFT side contacts of fuses 5 and 7. Fuse 7 always has battery voltage to it (left side) and fuse 5 (left side) goes two ways:
1 - Directly to the main pump, via a connector under the back seat.
2 - Thru fuse 5 (assuming it's good) to the tank pump.

But before you do the jumper, turn the Key On and see that the warning lamps are on. If they aren't check fuse 13 and it's contacts. Fuse 13 powers those warning lights and (drum roll) the Pump relay coil. That could be your problem. I've seen it more than once. If the warning lights are on, try the 7 to 5 jumper and see what happens.

"The car needs an intake boot as there is a small crack in it, but the car has started for six months with that particular issue."
• Maybe it's gotten worse. I wouldn't drive it with an air leak there. I think I have a couple around, but since my son filled the garage with Suzuki bikes, it's hard to find anything.


From Tasca Volvo...

Part Number 1357088
Part Name CONNECTION PIPE
MSRP $26.27
Core $0.00
Online Price $16.92 [plus probably $10 shipping]



--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

on the 82 there is a black rubber plenum,connector, boot that has had the crack in it.
I was thinking about jumping the wires on the relay, from behind.
I don't hear the main pimp running but it will run when power is applied to it.
Don't hear the pump run when i jump 12v to the #7 fuse..
Gotta go to work, thanks for everything so far

"Don't hear the pump run when i jump 12v to the #7 fuse.."

That might be because I didn't say to "jump 12v to the #7 fuse".
I meant for you to jumper 12V FROM fuse 7 (as 12V source) TO fuse 5,
which should make both pumps run (if applied to the LEFT side, and
fuse 5 was good).

My suggestions for by passing the relay as a test were...

... to jumper wire a connection between the LEFT side contacts of fuses 5 and 7. Fuse 7 always has battery voltage to it (left side) and [voltage applied to] fuse 5 (left side) goes two ways:
1 - Directly to the main pump, via a connector under the back seat.
2 - Thru fuse 5 (assuming it's good) to the tank pump.

But before you do the jumper, turn the Key On and see that the warning lamps are on. If they aren't check fuse 13 and it's contacts. Fuse 13 powers those warning lights and (drum roll) the Pump relay coil. That could be your problem. I've seen it more than once. If the warning lights are on, try the 7 to 5 jumper and see what happens.
[ did this even get read?]



--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

"on the 82 there is a black rubber plenum,connector, boot that has had the crack in it."
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
K-Jet manual
http://www.scribd.com/doc/3299223/Bosch-KJetronic-Fuel-Injection-Manual-?page=40


if you are talking about the "bulbous" rubber part that connects the air flow sensor/device to the intake/throttle body. Then any air entering here will def cause starting problems...esp if the hole is large enough. It allows non measured air to enter the intake manifold.

Clean off the crack and seal it with a silicone sealer. let dry and try again.

too much unmeasured air is my first guess.

Also, what you might try to do is jump the Cold Start valve. If it acts more like it is trying to start than before than, you're deff not getting enough fuel to start. My cold start valve temp sensor went bad and it would not start unless cranking for a long time.

The big rubber part of the air intake MUST be sealed well. As air travels into the engine it lifts the plate on the fuel dist. If there is a big enough crack, it won't like the plate enough to run.

Good luck! Oh, also go to www.k-jet.org! I've found lots of good information by looking over the green books. K-jet is a nice system once it is all working properly!

The patient is off life support, and running well.
The f/p relay i bought from NAPA was not turning the pumps on, (i though about taking the cover off and seeing why but decided not so i can get a refund) . So I took the original relay out, reheated all of the solder points on the back of the board.
Well better too much than not enough I always say, When the relay is plugged in the pumps turn on, but the motor does runs, and fairly nicely i'd say.
I am going from here to IPD and buy a 25$ relay then go out and see what I an find in the local pick a parts tomorrow.
in case anyone missed my previous post I fell over a place that has PDF copies of a bunch of 240's and some 740's
http://www.volvowiringdiagrams.com
There is also a place called SCRIBD.com which has all kinds of stuff, not the lest of which is service manuals for 240's and lord only knows what.
Thanks again for the support.
Paul in Norwalk

kicks and spits