Bentley says this indicates fuel injection problem, but according to an Art Benstein post I found, this can be misleading. Looking for ideas as to where to take my search to solve my rough running, poor idle and loss of power situation.

I pulled, cleaned and tested the IAC, replaced the fuel pressure regulator, new O2 sensor. Plugs are not fouled. As noted in an earlier post, it seems to run much better (quite good, in fact) for a few minutes until it warms up, then begins bucking and dies. A suggestion from a couple of you thought this might point to a bad coolant temp sensor. AMM is known to be good. I put it in my ex's 940 and it performed admirably.

Thanks for any and all help on this issue - Jim

I had a 1-1-3 with a 2-3-2 that gave me grief some time ago with a '92 245 I used to own.

I think the interesting thing here is that it runs well before the fuel system goes "closed loop" (i.e. before it is warmed up).

I see that your O2 sensor is new, but when the car is running poorly, try unplugging it and see if the running improves. Also, when the car is running poorly, pull back the cover over the 02 sensor line and measure the voltage (no need to disconnect it). I had a virtually brand new Bosch 02 sensor that was reading 1.3V steady when the car was running badly (it should swing between .15-.85VDC over about a second or so if it is working right). I guess this may have been due to voltage bleeding over from the O2 sensor heater circuit.

In any case, a new 02 sensor fixed things.

Good luck!

Okay, I got it running again - a goofy thing I forgot to plug back in. OKAY Herb, I think you're getting me closer, dude!! I followed your suggestion and unplugged the O2 sensor while she was running rough and giving me the 1-1-3 code with check engine light. It began to run tons better at that point!

Erased the code, started it back up with O2 sensor unplugged - no check engine light this time. I plugged the sensor back in and while running badly, I checked it's voltage. Over the course of about 1 1/2 minutes, it went from about 4.3v down to about 3.75v. Suppose I'm looking at a bad and also virtually new O2 sensor?

Sounds like progress! The extra voltage you're seeing on the O2 sensor has to be coming from somewhere (the sensor itself cannot produce those kinds of voltage values). Plug everything in again, and when it is running badly, disconnect the heater circuit only to the O2 sensor (the two wire connector). If the car runs well and you are measuring between 0.15-0.85VDC on the sensor, you know it is bleed-over from the heater circuit into the sensor line (if you are using a digital multimeter you may have to watch it for a while to see the voltage peaks and troughs because the meter doesn't update very quickly). Replace the sensor and you should be good to go...

Good luck!

Okay Herb, After warm up and began running badly, I disconnected the heater circuit. Running improved dramatically. Measured around 0.51v gradually down to 0.41v over the course of a couple of minutes. Guess that nails it, huh? I hope so!! I 'll report back after the new sensor gets installed - going for a Bosch direct fit this time. Thanks so much for your help! Jim

replace the fuel injection relay and cross your fingers. every 113 i've run into is the relay. it powers the injectors and when it fails to do so, the ecu sees injectors failing, not their power supply. good luck, chuck.

Hey PF, Yep, pulled the relay and found noticeable cracks. Reflowed solder and reinstalled, but the results weren't what I'd hoped. Once again, it ran fine until the engine warmed up, then choked and stalled, giving me the 1-1-3 code.

To all, sorry I've split my problem into 2 posts, but I'm really needing to solve this! Jim