Has anyone ever successfully glued the locking mechanism back on the wing window and had it hold? Both 142s I have owned have come to me with these already off. Searched but couldn't find any info. I have a rear view mirror repair kit I was going to try on one side and Locktite super glue on the other. Any advice?

My dad fixed his (now mine) by first roughing up the glass so the epoxy could grip. My dad was a very clean, tidy man that would fix things to look better than new, but this was a bit of a rough job (excuse the pun). I was too young when he did it, but looking at the finished product I'd say he must have tried a few times with just gluing before he went at it with a grinder or sanding paper or something. But then it lasted for at least 20 years if not 30 (I'm 39 and remember it for every as it is now).

If you want to spend money, go to a glass splashback manufacturer (for kitchens) and get them to make you a new window with holes exactly where you want them. You can even select your own colour (or "color") if you fancy that.

You will spend more than ten bucks on glue for something that will eventually fail. Pay IPD the ten bucks for their good set of vent window locks and forget it forever. They're listed in the cataloque.

I hate the inconvienence of the ipd latches, I don't like how they look, and the wind noise is very annoying. They are a permanent solution if you are ready to give up on the glued latches, which at this point I am not.

If you have wind noise, check your seals. I have no noise at all. Agree that they would be a fiddle to use but with a/c the vents are redundant and never opened. They look ok to me but I guess that's in the eye of the beholder.

"Pay IPD the ten bucks for their good set of vent window locks and forget it forever. They're listed in the cataloque."
The sliding locks will keep your windows closed--but not without a performance price. I have them on my '69 144S after failing to keep the top pivots and/or latches on by glueing (despite a rigorous cleaning regimen and using both regular mirror adhesive or an industrial product sold to dealers--and trying other pieces of glass/hardware--they just wouldn't stay--I gave up). I successfully (that is--they would stay glued for years--not months or days on my previous 144--a '68).
The sliders will leave a gap in the rubber gasket causing a wind whistle and--they are clumsy to fiddle with while driving--both for opening and closing.
If anyone is interested, I have a collection of glass (clear and tinted) and latches (old and newer style) -- for cheap.
One other thing--someone mentioned in a post about glueing the top pivot while it's on the car--that pivot slips right out of the gasket and can be glued on the bench---mark proper spot carefully.-- Dave

Another vote for thorough cleaning first, then rear view mirror adhesive. I've successfully done both windows this way, AFTER converting to the later style with the bottom screw hole so I would only have to glue 2 on each side, not 3.

I'm going on 2 years for all bonds save for one latch. I've found that leaving the car in direct sunlight accelerated failure on the latches, which are in tension. Now, if I leave the car outside in the sun, I gently unlatch both sides.

A question to others here. Is it completely unreasonable to consider finding someone whole could make a run of windows with all 3 holes? I have no idea.

I have also had success with gluing the "windwings" with mirror adhesive.

I have the one's with the lower pivot screwed on, the upper pivot glued, and the latch glued. Mark where the latch needs to mount. Take the window out. Clean thoroughly both mating surfaces. No abrasives, just clean and flat. Mount the latch. Wait 24 hours. Remount the window. Apply glue to upper hinge area. Clamp for 24 hours with the window open and unloaded.

Then just be careful when you operate the window. I always use 2 hands to minimize the forces on the glued parts. Tell your passengers you will open the window for them!

Back windows (142): easy upgrade to the screw-type latches.

Good Luck!

1970 142-S

The factory glued it; so can you. Also, an auto glass shop might have access to urethane glues that your local Ace won't be able to sell to random folks on the street... if you're desperate, you can always give them the job.

I've had mine on for several years, and I glued 'em myself. Al is right: cleanliness is absolutely essential. First you get it really, really super clean, and then you clean it. Then you clean it again. Follow it up with a good cleaning.

The latch itself just needs to be brought down to clean, bare metal. This process is well-understood and is pretty similar to the process for the glass.

My cleaning process is pretty similar to Al's, which might be why we've both had good "luck." My process: Remove the window from the car, use a razor blade to remove old glue, wash the whole window in soap/water, dry it, then use acetone to thoroughly degrease, then alcohol to remove the acetone residue. Then measure the correct location of the latch (don't guess! Putting it too close to the frame will over-stress the bond) and mark the *outside* of the window (duh) so you know where to glue your latch on. One last pass with Windex/ammonia where the latch is going, using a fresh paper towel of course. Because you don't want so much as a fingerprint on that glass. Basically, if there is *anything* on the glass it will greatly weaken the bond. So get stupid with the cleaning supplies.

I'm with Klaus: a good epoxy that claims high strength on both metal and glass, will do it. The stuff that worked for me is Devcon "2-Ton" brand epoxy. Ace carries it. Don't use just any epoxy, choose a good strong slow-acting two parter that specifically mentions on the packaging that it sticks to glass. Glass isn't easy to adhere to, and only a few things do it.

Krazy glue is a total bust. Don't bother.

I've had bad luck with rearview mirror adhesives, but that was before I got religion on the cleaning process. It might well work. Get back to us if it does.

I did not make any attempt to rough up the glass. Just cleaned.

It can't be said enough: the procedure is as important as the glue is. One of my rear wing windows ('70 145) is held with JB Weld, which, ahem, shouldn't have worked. Somehow, it still holds. Luck? It's all about cleaning, really. The cleaning was proper, so the bond is pretty good. That said, 2-Ton is the epoxy of choice for me.

I did the above-mentioned cleaning process, mixed a clean new batch of fresh epoxy per the instructions, set it properly (holding it in place requires some creativity) -- that's why you had to remove it from the car, this MUST be done on the bench -- and I use a light bulb to keep it warm if it's not a real warm night. Set it 24 hours, and if you did your cleaning it'll hold. Maybe not forever, but for long enough that you'll hardly remember the last time you did one. This process is just a part of the regular care and feeding of your 140. I've gotten it up to about 2-3 years between failures.

If you can't handle the overnight-on-the-bench thing, then try the rearview mirror adhesive which is much quicker to bond.
Keep us posted!

Maybe I'm the odd one out.
I've had good luck with rear view mirror adhesive on the vent windows.

Keep in mind that you are attempting to glue two non-porus virtually flat surfaces. That is a challenge for any adhesive.

Both surfaces must be spotless. After you've cleaned them, clean them again. I've wiped them down with mineral spirits followed by brake cleaner followed by alcohol. Let them dry thoroughly.
Follow the directions on the adhesive. It doesn't take a real lot to get good adhesion. Remember, you're not filling any pores with adhesive. That's why you don't need much. My experience is that too much will not hold. Don't clamp it too hard because you'll squeeze all the adhesive out.

Be patient. It will work eventually. It may take you a few tries - I know it did for me.

If you give up, IPD used to sell aftermarket latches that did not need any glue. They would just grasp around the edge of the glass.

Good luck.

I've been dealing with these since 1971. I've found a few things that hold them on
FOR A WHILE. But nothing that really lasts. Since it is tempered glass, you can't drill it
to put a screw through (like the lower hinge has). As soon as you get through the tempered (compressed)
layer, the residual tension in the core causes it to shatter into thousands of pieces.
A good epoxy may last several months.
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Oklahoma

Would it be possible to sandblast a hole through the window? I will have to deal with this issue when I get my 144 project on the road.
--
1966 122s, 1968 142s, 1969 144s, 1979 245dl, 1989 244gl

Sandblasting = throwing very fast sharp rocks at it on a small scale.
This would indeed shatter it as much as drilling with a diamond abrasive.
The only thing that MIGHT work would be etching it with a fluoride etch but still
the interior of the glass is under very high tension to balance the residual surface compression
that you would probably be pretty lucky to get a hole through it without damage.
Further, you would want to insulate the screw from the inner surface of the hole so
you don't initiate a fracture there, but do ALL the clamping on the inner and outer surface
of the glass where it is in compression.
I imagine the windows with holes in them had the hole there before the tempering heat treatment.
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Oklahoma

I didn't know that about tempered glass. I'm glad I read this before I tried it!
--
1966 122s, 1968 142s, 1969 144s, 1979 245dl, 1989 244gl

Wow, George. I must admit that consideration of the balanced residual stresses in heat-treated glass from a fracture mechanics perspective, is quite a surprise to find here... That's a best-ever explanation of why we can't just drill through car glass with a diamond bit. Bravo. You just took that to a whole other level of engineering, I must say :)

We learn the darnedest things by reading about people trying to glue a latch back on.

Yes, it brings new meaning to the old Volvo marketing slogan: Volvo - for people who think!
I feel smarter everytime I check in on the B'Board.

Several years ago (when I was still a member of SAE) we got a tour of Ford's mile-long
glass plant out at Broken Arrow and I asked some of the glass guys there. They confirmed what I thought.
I had tried it ONCE in Panama with a fine diamond drill and had little
"diamonds in the rough" scattered a LOT further than I thought they could go.
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Oklahoma

No. Only a good epoxy.

Klaus
--
Volvos should be saved from the junk yards, not donated.

Just as a note George -- not all vent wings had screws securing the lower pivot. The 1967 cars with the chromed metal push buttons on the door handles were glued top and bottom. I guess it didn't take Volvo long to figure out that it wasn't such a great idea.
As for the rest of what you had to offer--spot on. -- Dave