Volvo RWD 700 Forum

INDEX FOR 10/2025(CURRENT) INDEX FOR 12/2006 700 INDEX

[<<]  [>>]


THREADED THREADED EXPANDED FLAT PRINT ALL
MESSAGES IN THIS THREAD




  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

No oil change in 2 years, low oil 700 1988

Hi,
I've owned an 88 740 gle for around 10 years now, maintained it well until I bought a replacement two years ago. It was majorly serviced right before I bought the replacement - new radiator and tires. I've been driving it recently and noticed the temp gauge fluctuate, guessed it may be low oil. Checked the oil and the dip stick was dry.
I'd like to change the oil myself but am now thinking it may need more love than I know how to provide - a thorough flush. I've never done an oil change and don't have a Volvo manual.
I'm in the San Jose CA area and usually took my car to Volpar.
I'd like to continue using this as my daily commute vehicle and eventually take over servicing it myself. I'd like to go full synthetic.
Suggestions?
Jim








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    No oil change in 2 years, low oil 700 1988

    It's not a crime to not change your oil regularly. It is not checking the level monthly. And usually if you run a car out of oil, it normally seizes before it overheats. Have you checked your coolant lately?
    --
    Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    No oil change in 2 years, low oil 700 1988

    The first thing you need to do while you're comptemplating whether to change the oil yourself or not is to ADD SOME OIL ASAP to your engine untill it comes up to the right location on the dip stick. Then worry about who's going to change it. And in the future please don't wait two years before checking the oil level. BTY the fluctuating temp gauge has nothing to do with the oil level. You may have a bad temp sensor, loose sensor connection or low coolant level. If the coolant level is low check for leaks. If you want to switch to synthetic do it a little at a time maybe half (2 qts) synthetic the first oil change and all the next.








    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

      No oil change in 2 years, low oil 700 1988

      Hi,
      I didnt know you could mix dino and synthetic. I also don't know what kind of oil was placed in it last (dino/synth, 5/10/15W) by the shop.
      If I don't get any alarms from the community, I'll top off with the Mobil 1 5W. I bought a case of it at Costco for not much more than the dino they sell.
      Jim









  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

    No oil change in 2 years, low oil 700 1988

    At first glance, this post looks like troll bait but I am going to give it the benefit of the doubt.

    Changing your oil is a simple procedure made even simpler with one $45 tool..Rhino Ramps.

    Fully warm up the car
    Drive onto ramps
    Chock rear wheel
    Raise hood
    Slide under car with wrench 10mm (?) socket, short extension and ratchet plus oil pan and shop towels
    Remove under belly tray (optional)
    Place the drain pan under the drain
    Remove the plug and allow to drain for at least 5 minutes
    Replace drain plug with new sealing washer and tighten 45 degrees past hand tight
    Relocate drain pan
    Loosen filter from top by reaching down past the alternator (if maintaned by pros, this should be able to done by hand, if not use a strap wrench)
    Fill new Mann or Volvo filter with oil
    Screw on new filter and tighten hand-tight
    Clean up the oil on the motor mount
    Fill with 4 quarts of oil
    Remove drain pan
    Replace belly pan
    Unchock wheels
    Drive around the block
    Check oil level on a level place and fill as necessary


    Parts needed:
    5-Quarts of oil appropriate to your climate and driving
    Mann of Volvo Oil filter
    Drain plug washer
    Ramps

    Tools needed:
    Large adjustable wrench
    Socket for the belly pan and socket wrench (optional)
    Strap wrench
    etc...

    Assuming this is real, you need to clean the flame trap or at least check it. If you had oil when you started and you do not now, you are either burning it or leaking it...it does not evaporate. Synthetic will not help this so figure it out first.

    Mike









    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

      No oil change in 2 years, low oil 700 1988

      Hi,
      Thanks for all the details. This is exactly what I was hoping for. No, I'm not a troll.

      I don't think it has been leaking oil, but I've certainly *heard* of old cars burning a lot of oil and it hasn't been fed in a while. I wish it had an oil gauge in the dash, but that's that.

      The car also doesnt always start easily (imagine that), and sometimes it doesnt idle well for the first few minutes after startup. Sometimes it would even seem to "go limp" briefly, like it was not firing on all cylinders, while it was warming up. I haven't started it at all since I checked the oil and found it low.
      If you don't think it'd be a disaster to top it off with Mobil 1 (not knowing what is in there now), I'll do that before starting it up again.

      I'm also wondering what sort of manual I should buy or whether the community resources are enough. I've come close several times to buying the Haynes service manual but reviews cut that short.

      I've googled the Rhino Ramps and Mann filters and found many sellers, but if you have a suggested retailer I'd like to know. Costco doesnt carry much other than batteries and motor oil.

      Thanks (to you and to the previous responder)!
      Jim









      •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

        No oil change in 2 years, low oil 700 1988

        Your reference to Mobil-1 5W, must mean 5W20, 5W30 or 5W40 or something like that...there is no single-grade Mobil-1. The 5W20 is not appropriate for your car. If you have that, return it to the seller and get some 5W30 10W30, or 5W40. Any of those is fine.

        You can get the Mann filters from FCPGroton.com at a good price. They sell a case of 10 for about $45. A single filter is still only about $5, but shipping might double that. Good filters that could be found in a decent local auto parts store are Wix and Purolator. The NAPA "Gold" filter is a top-line Wix. Avoid Fram.

        The ramps are a rather bulky item so again, shipping may push up that attractive internet price - I'd look for a good price locally.
        --
        Bob: son's XC70, dtr's '94-940, my 81GL, 83-DL, 89-745(V8) and 98-S90. Also 77-MGB and some old motorcycles.








      •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

        No oil change in 2 years, low oil 700 1988

        "If you don't think it'd be a disaster to top it off with Mobil 1 (not knowing what is in there now), I'll do that before starting it up again."
        There wouldn't be any disaster by adding the Mobil 1 you have. All oils that meet military specs--vitually all oils--can be mixed--synthetic and dino. In your situation any oil is better than none.
        I think others may have more informed opinions but 5W seems very thin unless you're in a really cold climate. For now, to get oil in the motor--ok. -- Dave








      •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

        No oil change in 2 years, low oil 700 1988

        Also note on the dipstick that the length of the textured flat part is equal to one 1 qt. of oil. When you add oil you want the oil to be at the *top* of this mark or a hair above.

        So at the moment you are well under a quart of oil! When changing the oil, the 4 quarts will fill it nicely to top of dipstick mark.







<< < > >>



©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.