|
Yesterday, at the end of a relatively long freeway drive, as I came of the freeway, my car started dropping out of overdrive.
I arrived at my destination, and the car was able to cool.
When I returned to it for the return trip, everything went well, until after driving awhile at highway speed, it started dropping out of overdrive again. Thinking that I knew what the problem was, and what it was going to take to fix it, I continued carefully to make my way home.
However. I turned off the overdrive, thinking I would just go home in 3rd gear, rather than have it jumping in and out of gear. That worked, for awhile.
Then It started dropping to second gear, and just generally misbehaving Hmmm. Now Im in unfamilar territory, not having a clue to whats happening.
This morning, I started the car and took it for a short drive to find that the transmission is shifting flawlessly. I just went for a short drive and didnt allow it to really heat up.
Whats going on her.
Oh, the fluid level is good, but the fluid is rather dark.
I drain and replaced the fluid less than 2 years ago(about 16 months). However, during the flush I think I erred in following the flush procedure and possibly allowed it to turn for a short period without the proper amount of fluid. Now wondering if that did harm.
Any advise or observations will be greatly appreciated.
Larue
|
|
-
|
Im still trying to decide what to do about my transmission.
Presently Im trying to decide if some type of additive would improve things.
I disconnected the kickdown cable and took it for a drive. It did a little better. It pulls strong. It just takes a long time getting into overdrive, and theen it drops right back down to third again. When it really gets warmed up, it will sometimes stick in 2nd, but eventually shift up.
I like to hear some opinons about wether, or not, I should try Lucas, auto x, or some such. Something tells me this tranny is not done yet. I want to be sure before I try installing another.
Thanks brickboard.
Larue.
|
|
-
|
Miles on the car? Miles you've driven it?
Pull the pan and inspect. Look for debris; check the screen. I've heard of erratic shifting in 240s caused by clogged screens.
It's a messy job perhaps but relatively cheap and informative in your situation.
--
240s: 2 drivers & parts cars
|
|
-
|
Thanks.
I did that on sunday. Lots of fun. Plus flushed 16 quarts of mercon/dexron.
The screen was clear. There was a collection of something on the magnet, about 1/8" thick. The fluid was brown. symptoms remain.
|
|
-
|
oK. Ive flused it(16 qts). Replaced the OD relay with a known good one, and established that the kickdown cables are adjusted properly and not binding, nor fraying. Still problems persists.
Cold, the tranny pulls strong. The only indication of a problem is it takes longer to get to 4th, in fact I have to release the throttle before it will hesitantly shift. Once things warm up, tranny continues to pull strong in first, shifts to second, continues pulling strong, but remains in second, and eventually shifts hesitantly to third. From there the shifting is erratic. Back and forth between the gears.
I really need to understand what the problem is. Do I need another tranny , or is this one repairable?
Thanks Brickboard.
Larue.
|
|
-
|
A tough one. Hopefully someone with some real transmission knowledge will read this thread.
It doesn't sound like it's slipping. No slipping, correct? Sounds like it's just erratic shifting.
Since you just flushed it you probably don't want to do this because of the expense, but either of these choices are still much cheaper than another tranny.
1. Replace the ATF with synthetic ATF.
2. Get a bottle of AutoRx (www.AutoRx.com) and do a tranny cleaning with it. AutoRx is an excellent cleaner. It may be able to clean the clutch packs or whatever is causing the erratic shifting. After the cleaning you could convert to synthetic if interested. Use the rest of the bottle and clean your engine with it.
Might be worth a shot...
|
|
-
|
Hi Larue,
Drain and replace the fluid in your 1990 240 automatic transmission.
Auto transmission fluid should be pink (or red) and clear. If it smells burnt at all or is brown or darker, replace it.
(Like brake fluid in your Volvo 240 brake fluid reservoir - if brake fluid is a dark tan or darker and more than two or so years of age, replace it!)
Auto trannies that perform differently as Winter temps fluctuate tend to suggest questionable transmission fluid at the start. However, such issues can portend more serious faults with valve bodies, leaky o-rings, failing clutches, and the like. You don't mention other symptoms so probably nothing serious (we hope!!!!).
One should replace tranny fluid by I guess both age and miles. How many miles since your replaced the fluid in 16 months?
Use at least a quality mineral auto transmission fluid your 1990 Volvo 240 owner manual specifies for your auto tranny. In some instances, the two decade plus owld owner manual specifies a fluid type, like, for argument's sake, Dexron II (D or E?) in your auto tranny. So, research the brickboard and the fluid spec and use the current fluid spec that superseded by Dexron II unless you have to use Dexron II. Well, Dexron evolution is not so clear. You may not be able to use Dexron V in the AW series trannies found on your Volvo 240.
I don't know the correct auto tranny fluid your should put in your auto tranny.
Also, with warm engine and transmission sitting level in P or N with an idling engine is when you check tranny fluid level.
A more thorough fluid replacement (but you may not want to bother) includes dropping the tranny pan and cleaning the tranny pump intake screens. Be mindful of the 1990 240 auto tranny fragile fill tube. The seal inside the auto tranny to tranny body fill tube (sometimes secures to the auto tranny oil pan) is temperamental and prone to leak. A new pan gasket, of course, should you broach this step. Probably unnecessary unless you find bits and chunks in the old tranny oil. Some folks may change fluid twice with a some thousands of miles between changes to consider it a flush.
Drain fluid into clean container. If you pour the old fluid into a glass jar and look at it in bright light, any bits or chunks can suggest failing parts like bits of disk clutch.
Questions and comments?
Hope that hepkats.
Thanks,
As Yet Still Unemployed Technical Writer / Analyst.
--
|
|
-
|
Thank you.
16,400miles since the last flush.
At first I thought it was the OD acting up. But now Im describing the symptoms as: erratic shifting. When I start out cold it shifts pretty good,but takes a litle longer gettin into 4th. Then as it warms it starts to go osscilate between 3rd and 4th, but as it warms further it starts shifting erratically. At one point it wouldnt change out of 2nd.
I dropped the pan,cleaned the screen and flushed with 16 quarts of mercon 111 sunday.
The fluid was a brownish color, and there was an accumulation of something on the pan magnet. Im not sure what was on the magnet. tiny metal flakes(completely covered the magnet about 1/8" high)?
Long story short, after all I did(also re-soldered the relay), the symptoms remain.
Thanks
Larue.
|
|
-
|
I would try another new relay and also check the kickdown cable for fraying and binding.just my .02
|
|
-
|
Thanks for the tip. Thats what Im going to do.
Larue
|
|
|
|
|