hi sages- you were very helpful with my recent questions on the odometer gear replacement. dont want to foul up reconnecting wires on back of cluster. car is a 92 240. know where all the wires/plugs connect except two(didnot diagram it as i was told). there are two single wires with with female blade connectors on the end. one is red and yellow and the other is red and white. there is one male blade end on the cluster back to receive one of these wires. the other wire would remain unconnected to anything. think the unconnected wire is for a tachometer which i do not have. which goes on the blade terminal. bet it is the red and yellow one. dont want to make the wrong connection and damage the cluster. thanks for your help. next time will take a dose of smart pills. oldduke

THe red/white one is for the tachometer, do not connect that to anything else or you will smoke the cluster. Red/yellow is on the lower right side as you look at the cluster installed.
Dan

hello dan pageda- thanks for the clarification on wire hookups to the backof the the 92 240 cluster. recd the odometer gear, put it in and put cluster and speedometer unit back together and put cluster back in the dash. did not connect the white and red wire to anything as you advised. this has the female end blade connector. did connect the yellow red wire to the male blade on the lower right side of the cluster(installed) as you said . there is one more wire it is pink andwhite and the end ofthis wire is a male blade end. the only thing left on the cluster is a female connector left of center and lower on the cluster back(installed). does this pink and white wire go there? or does that just hang loose like the red and white tach wire too. thanks oldduke

Yes, that is from the fuel ECU. I would put some tape on the red/white wire and label it for a tachometer.

If you post your email address I can send you a pdf wire diagram for the 92.

Dan

thanks dan for the quick reply. that pink white wire is a male blade end. some thought it was a plug into the clock. i put it into the protruding female end terminal on the back of the cluster. does that send the fuel level to the fuel gage? my email is callpaladin@aol.com for the wire diagram. thanks again oldduke

Seems to be a cluster of cluster problems lately.

The pink/white wire powers the check engine light when tripped by the ECU. It plugs onto a spade connector below the clock.

The main power to the cluster comes from the red/black wire in the three wire speedo edge connector. That red/black wire is hot when the key is in the ON - KPII - position, and powers up the warning lights in that key position. You can test for power there with a test light.

If you're not getting the warning light test before starting, and the speedo is not working, make sure that the edge connector is seated properly.

"The main power to the cluster comes from the red/black wire..."

Just a model year check. This is a '92, right?
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Art Benstein near Baltimore

A chicken crossing the road is poultry in motion.

hi art- thanks for replying. so a tester wire to the red black wire on the speedo plug which slides on to the card on the back of the wire and clip to ground with the key in kp11 should light the test bulb right. the car is a 92 240 wagon. also art - looked at your photograph of the back of the cluster on top of the the speedo cover where that flexible ribbon type fuse goes across the two screws with washers- what is the purpose of that fuse ? does it have to be in one positon end to end. should a tester wire between those two screws light up? have checked all the fuses (16) in the fuse panel- all work. which fuse there controls the power to the cluster- 8? 13? thanks oldduke

I don't believe your '92 has a red/black wire on the speedo plug. What sort of tester wire are you using? None of the fuses in the fuse panel have anything to do with gauges or warning lights in the cluster. Fuse 16 just protects the gauge illumination circuitry, but that's OK if the light in your shifter works. Fuse 8 protects the clock wiring, but that's OK if your glove box lamp works.

The flex fuse protects the warning lamp, gauge, and alternator exciter circuits. The flex fuse can be installed either direction, but you might suspect it if you had it loose, because it is delicate. Also, if you had the speedometer out, make sure its four-pin socket mates correctly with the four pins on the cluster board. Power is fed through them.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore

Show me a piano falling down a mine shaft, and I'll show you A-flat minor.

No red black - I stand corrected - I was looking at a chart for an 89.

Since the other colors on the edge connector are the same (blue and black) is it safe to assume that the green white is the KP II connection?

Edit - just looked it up - it's blue.

hi boxvolvo- needed to find out whether currentwas getting to the edge board from the ignition k11 position. it was since tester bulb did light. have to find out why the clusters warning lights and repaired speedo/odo are not working. any thoughts are welcomed. thanks oldduke

hi art- thanks again. 1. youre right no red black wire in the speedo plug, rather 3 wires are blue, black, green-white. blue has power(tester bulb on) when key is turned to k11. used unpowered/no battery low voltage continuity tester. 2. flexible fuse does not look torn or blown. glad it will work in either direction. did not disturb it except to remove the washer screws at the ends of the fuse to allow the speedo to be removed from the white plastic cover. big questions: would a battery powered low voltage continuity tester work to test the flex fuses continuity at the two screws and does that fuse have to be good in order for the warning lights and speedo/odo to operate? 3. let me get something straight here- does this flex fuse protect the cluster from being fryed by mistakenly plugging the red white tach wire onto where the red yellow wire should go? i have been warned against this mistake and have not done it during this repair. 4. when i took the cluster out again after the odometer gear replacement and it speedo/odo and lights did not work, the only mistake i noticed was i had not tightened all the way one of the flex fuse screws which i then tightened- wondering if that is the problem. 5. next im going to reinstall the cluster again making all the plug ins in order and making sure the speedo 3 wire plug is snug and in correct position on the speedo board- actually there is only one way it will go. will wait to hear from you on the above questions before i reinstall. thanks tons for staying with me on this. oldduke

Hi old duke,

I will try to answer your questions as posed:

1) I'm afraid I don't know what a unpowered/no battery low voltage continuity tester is, exactly. What you want is a simple test light. A light bulb that shows you 12V power. When you use it, you ground one end of the light and probe with the other end.

2) There's no need to remove the screws holding the flex fuse when removing the speedometer gauge, but I understand it can happen by mistake. Doing that leaves the possibility the connections are disturbed and not functioning when you put it back. With the cluster powered (L-plug in and key in KP-II) check for power on either side of the fuse. Should be both places, of course.

3) The flex fuse is there to prevent fire in the wiring harness if there's a short circuit fault. It won't save the gauge from mis-wiring.

4) Very likely in my remote vision estimate. See #2.

5) Here are marked-up photos of a slightly earlier version of your cluster showing the points where you would expect to see the voltage that comes in on the green/white wire to the speedometer gauge. It was done to help someone find a similar problem as you are experiencing. One of the differences between these photos and your cluster is you have 4 pins where only 3 are shown on this 1989 unit. Remember to check as I suggested earlier-- that your speedometer gauge is properly seated in the pins that protrude from the cluster circuit board.




--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

When a clock is hungry, it goes back four seconds.

hello art- your info and pictures were very helpful. reinstalled the cluster after tightening that washer/ screw. everything now works as before, but the object of the repair- get the odometer working -still does not. at the top and bottom of the speedo are little springs. the one at the bottom is hooked up but the one at the top fell out when i tookthe speedo off the cluster. it appears that spring which was hooked to a hole on the black lever and to a rod which held a little drive wheel to gears on the odometer(not the trip meter on the bottom). problem is the little clear plastic hook end that the spring hooks to on the speedo frame is broken off. that would appear to allow the odo to operate. what might you suggest? or is it time to get a new speedo? if so where would you suggest? thanks tons again oldduke

hi art- reviewed your answers . sorry my language was a little unclear. 1. a simple testlight continuity tester was used on the blue power wire and ground with the k11 on. the light worked so that circuit worked. 2. will plug in the L-plug and test for power at both screws with the k11 on.3. since the two screws are connected by the fuse , if i use a different test light with a battery in it, i should be able to show that the fuse is functioning properly - correct? 4. will check that the two screws are contacting the pins. plan to do the checks and reinstall tomorrow. will let you know. thanks oldduke

Not fuel level, probably the differential speed sensor signal to both the ICU and ECU.
Dan