|
|
|
I bought a '89 Volvo 240Gl, in great shape. It's been sitting for a few years, but with a new battery, and some 91 Octane fuel, it fired up nicely. I drove it home, which is only 1/2 a mile, and got to work checking it thoroughly. I have a background in Japanese printing equipment, and I've done a timing belt change with several different cars. I'm no stranger to a set of sockets and wrenches, but this one has be a bit befuddled...
The car starts, and runs just fine. I get no check engine light, no issues other than needing to reset the service engine light. The engine gets warmed up, and it runs for maybe 10-15 mins just fine. Suddenly, the engine just dies. No sputtering, but stops. It will crank and crank, but never start. If I walk away for a few hours, or let it sit overnight, it runs like a top in the morning. I've seen info about cracking the fuel cap open a bit to prevent a vacuum, and I've made sure that the fuel pump relay is working, going as far as reflowing the solder joints.
If the engine ran rough, I'd understand some issue starting, but after a turn or two, it fires right up, even in the 30 degree weather. Someone mentioned the catalytic converter, and that it could be a possible issue, but I'd like to hear what others have done in response to an issue like this. Most of what I have read is cars that won't start, not ones that run fine then stop.
Thanks!
-Trevor
|
|
-
|
|
|
Thank you to everyone for their responses! I finally got some time to get things sorted a tad. I bought a fuel pressure gauge, and a Spark tester(I know, just hold it to the fender, but I am doing this by myself). So, here goes...
As it stands, the volvo will run for a indeterminate period of time and just STOP. No chugging, etc. This is typically done from a cold condition, but it warms up nicely, etc. I have been standing 10 feet away the last two times it did this, and it just stops like turning the key off. I put the spark tester in and made sure that it was indicating properly, and fired up the engine. It starts within a rotation or two, and is fine. Finally, once I am not paying attention, it dies. Upon trying to start it again, I get no spark. I wanted to check the fuel pressure, but cannot get the nuts apart to get the gauge in there. I would say that the pressure is good, as I see and hear the relay clicking to engage it. in the absence of verifiable proof, we'll go with it working. I plugged the diagnostic into port two, and got 1-1-1. I didn't try port 6, but assume it'll be about the same. I found the crankcase positioning sensor, and found that the insulation on it is screwed, at least the exterior. It's a three prong connector, and I could not get a reading from any combination of the pins. I would assume that depending on where it is in relation to the holes in the crank, it would give different readings, or maybe it needs 5+ to operate and give anything back. I have not been able to find anywhere on the web about how to check it, or standard readings,etc.
At this point, I believe my only solid option is to get a CPS and install it on the engine and see how she does. Outside of that, everything seems to be just fine...
Any thoughts? Thanks all!
|
|
-
|
|
|
Be gentle in your efforts to remove the sensor.
The working space is a bit more cramped on the 240 series. You will need a 10mm wrench. Spray some penetrating fluid on the old sensor. Try to gently rotate the sensor before actually pulling it out. It is important not to break it off as it will make for a very bad day. Usually it means removing the transmission to finish the job.
I always put a bit of antisieze on the sides of the new sensor in case I have to pull it at a later date.
This is just a heads up, not an effort to make you fear the task- it is normally pretty straight forward.
Good luck,
Randy
|
|
-
|
|
|
like i said, classic speed sensor. pull the trigger and replace it. good luck, chuck.
|
|
-
|
|
|
3rd person for the CPS: inspect the wire for fraying around the unit and see what color the dot on the wire is. Look in archives for info on problems, color-code, changing.
Also possible that your main fuel pump is quitting. Perhaps it overheats and shuts down.
When it quits: do you have spark? Can you jump the fuel pump?
--
240s: 2 drivers and some parts cars
|
|
-
|
|
|
classic speed sensor. easy way to tell when it doesn't start is check for spark and listen to the injectors. no spark and no clicking from the injectors means it's the speed sensor. injectors clicking and no spark means ignition stuff like amplifier or coil. spark and no injectors means it's the fuse or the fuel pump relay. good luck, chuck.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Could be the powerstage/ ignition amplifier mounted on a heat sink near the battery.
Next time it quits and won't start check for spark if no spark pull a plug. If the plug is wet and no spark it is likely the PS. You can try a fresh coating of heat sink thermal paste otherwise replace it. Used and tested is fine
Dan
|
|
-
|
|
|
this was going to be my third suggestion. I was just waiting to see if he had fixed the issue with my first two suggestions.
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/
|
|
-
|
|
|
Welcome to the Website.
#1 There is a Fuse on the Drivers side fender. It's in a white fuseholder.
Follow the smaller red wire from the battery
See if that fuse holder is burnt or really crappy. That is the main fuse to the Fuel Pump relay. If it has a bad connection to the fuse, it may heat up and cause too much resistance.
#2 When the engine is cold and running well, grab the wire going down to the Crank positioning sensor (Located pretty much on top of the Trani Bellhousing). and give it a wiggle; see if the car stalls. These wire insulation on these sensors have a habit of tearing. Over time water gets in there and makes them fincky. A warm engine might just be enough to lose the electrical connection.
Give that a shot and post back under this post.
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/
|
|
-
|
|
|
Seconded. Crank Position Sensor. My '92 did almost exactly what you're describing, more and more frequently. Replaced the sensor about 6 months ago, and it fixed it.. hasn't hiccuped since. As Tony said, the insulation wears away. I just replaced the same sensor preemptively on an '89 I'm currently working on, although the car was running fine. The sensor looked exactly like the faulty one.. cracked insulation and worn probe. Even if it's NOT the problem on your car, it's worth replacing if you haven't done it yet. Although there's writeups elsewhere on the board, let me know if you'd like some step-by-step suggestions. It's not as difficult as it looks.
Barry
|
|
-
|
|
Hi,
It could be very many things...
You need to make more observations then ‘‘It runs for 10-15 minutes and then stops’’.
Does it have spark? What is the fuel pressure?
Goatman
|
|
|
|
|
