This spring I was lucky enough to find the 242 DL below...now has a bit more than 53k. Two issues I know for sure I want to remedy now rather than later and those are 1) somehow protecting the wiring harness to keep it from disintegrating and 2) changing the gear on the odometer. Anything else I need to think about that can become problematic?

Wow, that is a clean-looking '84. My '84 has a few more miles than yours.

Along with everyone else's suggestions, I would put the car on jackstands or drive it up on some ramps and thoroughly inspect the underside for rust, especially in the wheel-wells. Also, pull the trunk lining and look for rust in both spare tire compartments behind the wheels.

Keep the insides of the rocker panels clear of debris such as leaves. Water drains into the cowl behind the engine hood and is supposed to exit from some too-small drain holes in the rockers. Pour water into the cowl and make sure that it easily drains out of the rockers. If it doesn't, it needs to be cleaned out; this is another place where rust begins if water lingers too long. You can access the insides of the rockers by pulling off the black trim that's under the doors when they are closed, and pull back the carpeting. You should see some plastic discs that can be pulled out. Use a coat hangar or vacuum hose to pull out any debris inside.

I know from experience - my original passenger rocker is long gone as is 25% of the original floor due to rust and my neglect to stop it sooner. But I live in the winter salt belt of Ohio...since you're in Texas, you shouldn't have to worry about that.

Try adding some bling with OEM gauges to give those blank dash panels something to do! You'll find them on eBay.
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Mike F - 1984 244 DL - 317,000 miles
Original engine, transmission, drive train, starter
Undergoing reconstructive surgery with POR-15

1972 142 S - The Yellow Brick - 135,000 miles
All stock except for Weber Carb. B20B engine. M40

Did you have to repair/replace your wiring harnesses. I know this was an issue until what '87 or '88 and assume it would be on the '84 if not corrected.

Yes, mine was replaced a long time ago because of the crumbling insulation. I would closely examine as much of the harness as possible. Replace it if it looks iffy. It's not cheap but it's well worth it.
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Mike F - 1984 244 DL - 317,000 miles
Original engine, transmission, drive train, starter
Undergoing reconstructive surgery with POR-15

1972 142 S - The Yellow Brick - 135,000 miles
All stock except for Weber Carb. B20B engine. M40 tranny. 0 - 60 whenever the hell it feels like it.

Thanks for the recommendations. The car was purchased by the seller's Mom, new in 1984...have to look at the paperwork to see the price but I seem to remember around $14k. She financed at the teacher's credit union and paid it off the next year. She obviously drove it very little. I think it was in '98 that her husband died and until she passed in 2008 it was maintained immaculately but her son who sold it to me. Since I bought it I have had the in tank pump replaced, along with the tie rods (shall I say inner). It was a surprise with so few miles to have to replace the tie rods. The tires were purchased in '96 and had good tread but were likely out of round, and new tires made a huge difference. $220 in R-12 made the Dallas heat survivable. Other than that I only added a up to date stereo, put speakers in the back deck and replaced the front speakers. The FM didn't work....then the belt on the casette deck snapped so I could not even use the adapter...and I hate talk radio.

I do have a set of Virgos from another 240 and will be very tempted to have them refinished and try them out, but keeping the 14 inch tires and original wheels.

Echoing other comments: change all hoses & belts; in-tank pump & hose; fuel filter; check bushings; flame trap.

This assumes you drive it daily. If not, and you don't go far, do the timing belt and in-tank pump and the rest as you go.

You don't mention service records/ history.

I have way more trouble w/ cars that have been sitting than w./ high-mile units. I'm now doing a friend's 80K mile 92 244 that sat for a bit (and for which he paid a premium price). It's a nightmare of frozen parts.

The 89 I bought 3 years ago for a different friend was a much better car - w/ 275K and needing almost nothing.
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240s: 2 drivers and some parts cars

Its beautiful. What year is it?
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1974 144GL, 1996 940 GL LPT

what a beauty!!
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/

For the exterior, I recommend Zaino or Klasse paint sealant after giving it a good polish and detail. I have two old cars - a 1982 Toyota and a 1987 Volvo. In the past, I've polished and waxed, and washed. These two high end paint sealants last much, much longer, they are shinier and protect better. It will make washing a joy instead of a chore. It's a difference you really will notice. Zaino makes a version for single stage paint (vs. clear coat), like what I think your car has.

Mechanically, I would check to see if the in-tank fuel pump is operating properly. There is a rubber hose that fails due to immersion in gasoline, and I'm guessing yours might be toast about now. Instructions at http://cleanflametrap.com/transferPump.htm .

You might want to change/flush all fluids in the car if you haven't already.

Nice car!!!!

Very nice looking car.

50k miles... I'd inspect all rubber bits. I expect belts and hoses probably haven't been changed due to mileage, and time will deteriorate those. Maybe timing belt too. And tires.

But, if all looks good... just drive it, and preserve it to your liking.

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-Matt I ♥ my ♂

I'd love to see more photos of this beautiful and well preserved car.

Just posted additional photos taken on 12/29.

I have some more exterior that I will post....and will get some interior later. Pretty much perfect inside and out.