Volvo RWD 120-130 Forum

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Bore size of rear wheel cylinders? 120-130

I am looking for two ring type hydraulic cylinder seals for a bore of 3/4 inch. I see an axle kit online that shows that type for mid-60's 122 Volvos rear cylinders--but they don't list the size for that item. Anyone have those figures? I recall wagons may have a different size than sedans. I am rebuilding the clutch master from a 264. thanks in advance--Dave








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Bore size of rear wheel cylinders? 120-130

Hello,

The wheel cylinders that have seals that mount on the piston are 1" and 7/8".

Any reason you can not use a 3/4" seal from a Girling clutch master or clutch slave repair kit.


--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502








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Bore size of rear wheel cylinders? 120-130

Eric, I was hoping the wheel cyl. axle kit could suffice as it would supply all the needed seals (2) at a very discounted price. My next move to secure the seals would be to purchase two 122 clutch master cylinder kits (could not find one for the 264--the slave, yes). If I was home I would have just gone to the basement and measured some stored cylinders and realized the clutch master seals will work but I'm 700 miles from my basement. I'm doing this V8 Volvo on a severe budget and not even sure going with the 260 hardware is wise--given the problem of finding parts now--what about 5 years from now? But I have these cylinders and the plumbing will be easy. I have given some thought to a clutch center push slave ala Chevy S10 along with the matching master. I am in the process of mounting the clutch to see how things will lay. Thanks for the information. -- Dave








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Bore size of rear wheel cylinders? 120-130

If you can find a good parts guy, inquire about Repco/PBR rebuild kits for 1970's era Datsun or Toyota brake master cylinders. As I recall, many had 19mm/3/4 inch cylinders, but I don't know the ID of the hole in the seals.
It's also possible that the entire master assembly could fit. I used a Toyota Landcruiser clutch slave on my 427 Cobra project, new from Toyota, for $18.00 wholesale - iron with two seals and a boot, and far cheaper than the Girling 122S one recommended for the car. So the masters are not that expensive - Datsun 240Z ones were about $30.00 a few years ago.
As a further aside, I installed a 5.0 HO with a five speed in a 240 and used the Volvo cable directly on the Ford lever. That's a pedal bracket change for you I guess, but it did work well. I'm not a fan of the bearing retainer mounted slaves. ( although I have a car now with one from the factory....)








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Bore size of rear wheel cylinders? 120-130

Rhys, thanks for the suggestions/tips. I had considered using a 240 cable system (have an '80 240 ex-diesel M46 body parts car at home). My Danish friend Gert had done the same installing a GM V6 into a British Capri--anchoring the cable beyond the fork. I may have to settle for just getting the engine dumped into the newer body, tow it back to NY and work out the details later without the deadline of losing the working space hanging over us.
Actually there's room for a bracket & slave in front of the fork but space gets limited where the tunnel narrows and a fixed bracket would be needed for the cable end. The motor is set as far back and low as it can get. The 260 slave and master are cast iron units and they are in good shape.
I'm terrible at making these decisions but once things are all said and done I've managed to make some very workable solutions--but now I remember why I put it together with the automatic the first time-although modifying the shifter and N/S switch to reflect the P-N-D-S-L-R of the Olds Roto-Hydramatic and have all the safety stops work was a challenge. BTW--the S stood for "Super" and it was--an automatic with direct mechanical drive in the intermediate gear-- but 1st and 3rd were totally shlushville. -- Dave







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