I need to do a pair of rear lower control arm bushings. I haven't checked them yet, but I've been down that road enough to be able to tell by the sound the front end makes going over bumps that it's time.

Anyway, over the many years I've dealt with this job, I have always replaced BOTH front and rear control arm bushings when I needed rear ones. The rears are always obviously worn out, but the dozens of times I've had them in my hands, I never remember any front bushings appearing to be worn out.

I guess you can see where this is headed. More than once I have read on this forum of guys saying that the front bushings last forever. I know THAT's not true, but, trying to make quick work of the bushing job, I am thinking of just doing the rear control arm bushings if the fronts APPEAR to be good.

The subject car is a '93 Wagon with 145 Kmi.

Any thoughts?

Thanks, one and all,
Rich

Hi RicoS,

Agreed with Art.

The front suspension control arm (A-arm) assembly will usually require the rear (large) control arm bushings replaced every 100k miles or so, usually, as component (part) duty cycle varies by application, as you read.

The front (small) control arm bushing (anchors control arm assembly to engine support member sub-frame) rarely fails on 240s. The bushing rubber material seems quite durable and securely adhered to the outer shell and crush tube. A few I've replaced show separation from the center crush tube (sometimes rust at work). Inspect these bushings to verify condition.

The front (small) control arm bushing can be difficult for the tire-suspension shop and even a well-armed machine shop to press out. So, shop around for good machine shops. On most newer cars, bad bushings are met with replacement control arm assemblies with new bushings.

Before considering using a urethane bushings, exhaustively research the anecdotal information on urethane bushing use on RWD Volvo 240s here and turbobricks. Verify you have good quality. If using urethane bushings with outer shells pressed into the rear (large) control arm bushings, verify your auto tire-suspension or machine shop can press these in for you. The thin bearing shells used on some urethane bushings can irreparably bend when improperly pressed in. Or you can get the bushing kits where you burn out the remaining outer shell rubber matter and press in with a vice (kits come with new center crush tube as that is where urethane bushings pivot). Urethane acts like a low compliant pivot joint or bearing with bearing actions and sliding surfaces. Well grease bushings using a silicon-based synthetic grease (Synco Chemical Corporation "Super Lube" NGLI grade 2 from Ace Hardware www.super-lube.com). Service requires regular inspections and re-greasing. Some urethane bushings, once installed and a short time under torque load, can become damaged if dissembling suspension components.

Review the argument between use of rubber bushings or urethane (or polyurethane). The debate has lasted for over a decade on brickboard. Turbobricks may provide more detailed urethane issues info.

If the control arms are corroded with rust, if your 240 is worth it, you may want to remove the rust using wire wheels and treat with POR-15 or like rust-curing process and like paint (or sandblast and powder-coat at more $).

You have many brands from which to choose. All will advocate Volvo brand purchased from Tasca. Tasca charges only a 10% mark-up from their wholesale (apparently) Volvo USA vendor. Else, Boge was the OEM manufacturer of these bushings per Volvo spec. I'm not sure if buying a Boge (Boge is now owned by ZF like Lemforder) is the same or better version of the same control arm bushing. I installed Meyle (made in China) rear (large) control arm bushings a few months ago on my 1992 240 GL and so far so good.

The two rear large control arm bushings are unique if from Volvo. Left is PN 1359812. Right is PN 1273378. (The front small control arm bushings are the same left and right and is PN 1205825). One of the two rear large control arm bushings is "more HD (heavy duty)" than the other if buying Volvo OEM. I forget which one. I'm not sure. Get the two of the HD bushings.

Some will "double-nut" the retaining hardware that secures the rear (large) control arm bushing assembly (the bushing securely pressed into the metal box-like housing that secures to the uni-body using three bolts).

Rubber bushings flex during suspension articulation as the car moves. Urethane bushings operate like a joint or bearings.

The suspension works as a system in concert with the springs, certainly the strut cartridges (shock absorbers - as they dampen movement sharing forces with the bushings), and strut mounts.

So, you may need to consider what other suspension parts require replacement.

Or, if your Volvo 240 is a beater, you can remove a control assembly from a junkyard Volvo 240 and replace the assembly complete to treat a separated control arm bushing. I did this on my 1990 240 DL wagon last week for the driver side. As the bushings were already pressed in and operated under proper loading in the donor car, I applied torqued to the front (small) control bushings by approximating proper load by eye as the car was on jack stands.

Hee-hee! I'll do it wrighte as it gets warm again for the 1990 240 DL (li'l red) wagon. Horribly abused by prior owners, yet the li'l red wagon has heart.

Finally, pay particular attention when applying torque to the rubber bushing retaining hardware with the vehicle under load, and that means the car sits at rest on a level surface with properly inflated tires. In the awesome U.S. PacNW-West, we have tire and suspension shops like Les Schwab. Their outstanding suspension and alignment mechanics are able to loosen and re-tighten (torque) the bushing hardware on the front AND rear bushings BEFORE performing an alignment while the car rests on the alignment rack. This single step ensures a much longer life for your car and the components you spent so much money and time on to replace.

Questions?

Hope that helps.

kittysgreyvolvo.
--
Current:
1990 240 DL Wagon
1991 240 Sedan
1992 240 GL Sedan
All with M47II; both sedans with moon roof.
The 1992 GL has the dealer option locking rear diff.

Past in Volvo Asgard with Assar Gabrielsson and Gustav Larson:
1975 244 DL (B20F, K-jet, M40)
1979 245 DL (B21F, K-jet, M46)
1976 242 DL (B21F, K-jet, M46, moon roof)
1979 242 GT (B21F, K-jet, M46, moon roof)

"There will always be a moon Over Marin, tonight"
From the Dead Kennedys' album Plastic Surgery Disasters, 1982

Terminology is a bear. Obviously some folks think you're talking about bushings holding up the rear of the car, and others, the front of the car. I think you are working on the front of your car.

I'm not one to say anything lasts forever, but those tiny bushings at the front of both the front control arms and the rear trailing arms, have never presented themselves to me with a reason to change them. Yes, I have them on the shelf, so the spares in the bag must be nearly 12 years old now. Stories of 20-ton presses failing to get them out do not encourage me to replace them just "because."

So, each time I replace the big one on the front control arm there's a point at which the control arm is hanging from the front bushing. The arm itself is a large enough lever to move it by hand through its expected motion and determine for yourself if the bushing is there, doing its job. Is every time I check.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Two antennas met on a rooftop--, The wedding was O.K., but the reception was great!

I am with Art, I have replaced 5 sets of rear position control arm bushings (big ones) and none of the front (small ones). The job is much easier if you use poly at this location.
Dan

You mus drive very rough roads or with lots of salt. My 1990 244 with a turbo instalation and 173,000 miles still has the original bushings , and yes they are still in very good shape. I have been driving 240's since 1975 (I bought a new B20 75 in 75) and I have never replaced the front trailing arm bushings on any 240 in the last 30 plus years. Salt will attack the metal in the bushings but other than that I would leave them alone.

the front bushings are a bear to take out and replace and appear to last almost the life of the car. The rear are another story. I have always just replaced the rear ones on my 240's ( I've owned 5 different ones). I'd suggest just doing the rear ones and then when this new pair goes out, replace both front and rear and get a new arm,as the rear opening seems to splay out with ongoing replacements. This then needs to have some tack welds to hold the new bushing in place. Not a good set up.
Hope this helps,
el raidman

Rear are at axle; front are front of the trailing arm - correct?

I'm not sure I've ever replaced fronts, except for trauma - then I just replace the whole arm.
--
240s: 2 drivers and some parts cars

The front ones realy do last almost forever.
--
Rene