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Noting you just had the cluster open for the bypass, I would suggest going over your work. However, if you can't see the problem, you'll need to treat it like it was a coincidence and start from scratch as below:
First thing I would do is pull the yellow wire off of the head temperature sender and ground it, to see if any gauge response. Key on, motor off. Because the gauge works by heating a bimetal element, you could do this without help, grounding the wire, and quickly returning to the cabin to observe movement on the gauge.
If that failed to move the gauge, I would grab a voltmeter, and test for +10V on that yellow wire terminal, with it removed from the sender. The gauge should pass the 10-volt stabilized source through to that point. Any break in that, including a broken gauge, and no 10V will appear.
Tracing the circuit back to the gauge will include the gray plug on the firewall, the yellow wire in the round plug on the back of the cluster, and, of course, the bypass wire you installed to the gauge itself.
You didn't mention how you did the bypass, so here's my pictorial, which includes something on checking the work with the cluster out of the car. Notes on the Temp Faker - Or That Temp Comp Board
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
Those who jump off a Paris bridge are in Seine.
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