I know the headlight lens pulls forward to release from the assembly, but when the lens is on there good (i'm not sure with what) what's a good method for removal? I know the grille needs to be removed, do you then start working on the seal right next to the grille? Then, carefully pry all around and off? Or, should the chrome trim be removed, and the seal released with some sort of solvent or a heated putty knife?
On my previous 245, the lens was just falling off, making it easy to scoot it all under that chrome trim on top, and take off. Cleaning and replacement is the easy part, by washing, drying, and sealing it all up again with a clear sealant. I guess I'd like some input/success stories before I start pulling and prying on 22 year old plastic parts.

On my '86 car, I pulled out the complete unit from the car using the three or four nuts, I think, on the engine side. The headlight fits into a bracket/holder that comes out as a unit. You do not have to reassemble anything or readjust the aim. The chrome top strip just screws onto it.

I then used compressed air applied where the bulb fits in. I used an air nozzle wrapped tightly with a rag and slowly turned up the pressure regulator.

I think I plugged the atmospheric relief vent on the top side with my thumb to make it work quicker. Watch how you take it apart as it acts as a bleed valve. Failure to assemble it back correctly will cause the front lens to deform inwards when you travel up and down in altitudes. That was a nice surprise for me to see them caved in slightly from a casual side view shortly there after.

When you apply the air, the lens will go pop when it breaks loose from the seal and the pressure is over in a blink. It may seem scary but it works slick and not a whole lot of pounds per square inches are used. The lens is about a couple square feet of surface area where the seal is a few linear inches.

The neat thing is the front lens receives force evenly from the inside and releases the weakest side first from the sealing groove.

I stayed away from RTV or silicone sealants, as they are hydroscopic in nature when I put it back together. Volvo caulking dries out and cracks. Therefore, I tried clear sealant adhesive products. So far, they have stayed dry inside.

Phil

Not sure if I have access to compressed air. I'll have to check on that. Good idea, though. Thank you.

Just had another thought. You could use the air out of a spare tire from your car and then refill it at a station. VW bugs used that idea for a windshield washer pump!

Phil

I never thought that someone would not have an air compressor. Just shows you what assuming can do.

You do not need a lot of volume if you can seal up the openings good. You might just use the vent opening and leave the bulb in the back with the retainer clip attached. You only have to make up enough volume to replace the amount that escapes the seal edge around the lens until it pops open.

If you have a bicycle pump or any other way to push an inert gas, say, from a welding bottle will work. Heck, I do not know that water pressure from a hose would work but it would be a lot messier! In addition, it may not do the sliver of the reflector any good. You do not want to touch the coating with anything or it is good-bye! Forget the water idea.

Sure wish the DOT never allowed the use of plastic headlights to begin with. The only plus I can see for using them was for the manufacturers.

I see so many cloudy headlights parked on the streets, it is sad our cars have to have cataracts as they age so little too!

The whole idea about aerodynamics goes out the window when you continually build 200 to 550 horsepower engines to go into passenger cars that should only go up to 70 mph with everyone else.

Guess I had better take my soapbox and the water idea, out of here.
Good luck in your endeavors and thanks for the reply.
Phil

Be careful not to touch the reflective surface.

Bork
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

The journey of a thousand miles begins with a broken fan belt and leaky tire.