Well, the heater core is in, the car runs, but I still have some work under the hood to replace heater hoses and the control valve.

For anyone contemplating this job, fear not. It's really not that bad. Working under the dash of a 940 is cake compared to a 240. The fact that the fan is off to the side makes it much easier.

Here's what I learned:

- You need to properly light your work area. I used three different lights: a flood, a spot, and a little LED gooseneck for those troublesome screws at the top of the heater box. All lights could be affixed and focused, leaving both hands free;

- You will need 12" or more of 1/4 socket extensions to access those top screws. You will need to tape the extensions together, tape the socket to the extensions, and use tape or putty to keep the screw in the socket. If you don't, you will suffer. With this method, and proper lighting, the hidden screws aren't that tough;

- There are some wires and vacuum hoses that run BEHIND the heater core and come out at the top left. There is a notch in the heater box for them to live in. After the core is in and you're replacing the front of the heater box, move it into place laterally, but with the bottom kicked out, then slide it up and into place. Otherwise, you risk pinching those wires and vacuum tubes (which I may have done).

- This may be noted in the FAQ, but: the duct to the driver's side face vent can stay in place. It looks like it would be a bear to remove. There's no need to.

Lastly, thanks to Spook, J. Sargent and others for the help.

Monty
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Past: '79 245, '91 240, '88 245. Current: '90 245, '83 245, '95 940