I don't know the "book" sequence, but I have rebuilt about a dozen engines, and this is how I do it.

First off, have you checked the clearance on the New bearings?
I use "Plastigage" and check each journal individually.
It takes the guess work out of it.

Before placing the crank, I apply a film of new motor oil to the crank journals and the new bearings, making sure that the bearing shells are firmly in place in their correct position.

Next, I gently set the crankshaft in place, and turn it a revolution or two to check for any interference. It should turn smoothly without any binding.

Next, I install all of the bearing caps,...be sure that the caps are in their respective position and turned the correct direction... and tighten the bolts finger tight.
I then start at the center of the crankshaft and "snug" the bolts.
Around 5 ft/lbs.

I again rotate the crankshaft and check for binding or resistance.

I then start tightening the bolts in sequence.
Starting at the center of the crankshaft and alternately working to each end.
The first sequence, I would tighten all the main bearing bolts to within 5 ft./lbs. of their final rated torque.

Again, check for binding or resistance of the crankshaft.

Finally, torque each bolt using the same sequence,,,,start at and torque center bolts.....torque 1st. set of bolts to right of center.....torque 1st set of bolts to left of center....torque end set of bolts to right.....torque end set of bolts to left.

Again, check the crankshaft for any binding or resistance.
You should be able to turn it by hand, and it should be smooth with small resistance caused by the oil film on the journals.

If you have or sense any problems, now is the time to correct them, not when the engine is back in the car.

Before re-installing the distributor, I would add the engine oil.
I then would make a tool (cut the handle off a long, flat screwdriver) and mount it in a drill motor.
I then use it to turn the oil pump.
If you look down in the distributor hole, you will see a slot in the oil pump shaft, this is where you turn the pump.
Turn the pump until you see oil coming out of the rocker shaft on top of the engine.
Your crankshaft is ready.

I don't have the torque specification for the B-18(?) engine.

These are not factory instructions, just the way I do it, and I've never lost a rod bearing or main bearing yet.

Hope this helps
steve

I'd start with the center pair and work out, but it doesn't really matter much. What does matter is to check for free rotation after each cap is torqued down.