I am currently working on a 1989 volvo 244 dl, I am trying to replace the lower u-joint where it meets the steering rack. I took both bolts, (top and bottom) out, sprayed a lot of wd-40 and pb blast and I cannot get the darn thing to move! I have tried pry bars, hammering a flathead screwdriver into the splines, and wedging it loose, b ut it will not move! Any help is very welcome!
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1989 244 DL first Volvo

Try loosening the upper u-joint. Knock it upward or even remove it so that you can work on the lower one.
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1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont.

You did remove the bolts from the steering rack, yes?

My procedure:

1) remove bolts
2) soak w/ penetrant
3) drive a slotted screwdriver into the split.
- gently, I've broken 2 - cracked at the other side
- I sometimes use two screwdrivers, one to start and a fatter one after
4) drop the steering rack - leaving it attached at the ball joints
5) gently hammer on the u-joint, rotating now and then. Small taps, not whacks.

I've gotten everyone I've tried but some require much patience.
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240s: 2 drivers and some parts cars

Ok, well... one thing is from the looks of things I will not be able to remove the steering rack... I have been trying at it for about three hours and have about lost all patience and cutting it to bits is seeming like a good idea
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1989 244 DL first Volvo

It's 4 nuts - 2 U-bolts. Usually they're covered in grease and easy to remove. You don't have to pull it. Just loosen it and drop it down.

If you've been hitting the u-joint w/ the rack in place you've got me. I don't think the U-joint comes out w/ the shaft in place.

If you cut the u-joint you've still got to lower the rack to install a new one.

Unless you're pulling the steering shaft somehow. Which would be pretty extreme.
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240s: 2 drivers and some parts cars

well with the "collapsible" steering shaft, my plan was to move the bottom u-joint up the shaft until it came loose from the rack and then pull it down and off... I worked on it for four hours and didn't geti it to budge a centimeter... I am lost, and scared to drive it with the cutting I have been doing. I don't know what else to do with it...
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1989 244 DL first Volvo

I hope someone else chimes in on this because I'm lost.

It's never occurred to me to pull the u-joint without dropping the rack. I still don't get why you haven't done that. What am I missing? Do you think the steering shaft will slide up towards the steering wheel?

I'm going to do one on a 1991 wagon this morning. It's a 1-hour job I think. We'll see.
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240s: 2 drivers and some parts cars

"What am I missing? Do you think the steering shaft will slide up towards the steering wheel?"

No, but the u-joint will, when loose enough and splines are clean.

IMO our poster has the right idea: push u-joint up the shaft till it clears the pinion splines, then swing shaft aside to drive u-joint down and off. Don't know why it's not working for him, unless the splines are corroded or the joints aren't opened enough.


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Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

OK, I see now. I've never done it that way: I didn't know you there was enough room to slide the joint up that much. This means tapping upwards if the joint is tight.

It's a tough job the 1st couple of times. There isn't much room to swing a hammer and I've had several frozen solid. I rarely get one to slide.
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240s: 2 drivers and some parts cars

Ok... I tried taking off the rack now and have physically pulled on it to try to work the joint loose... no go. I sprayed it with pb blast overnight, and it won't budge a single bit... I had hoped this would smiple, of course... far from it. I would prefer to find a way to do this myself but from the looks of it I may need a shop...

I've never been able to pull a joint off.

Drop the rack, drive a screwdriver in a little to release tension, tap gently.

Sorry my instructions weren't clear.
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240s: 2 drivers and some parts cars

Keep soaking with PB Blaster, tapping with a hammer and trying to spread the outer hosing with a hammer and chisel. Persistence will eventually pay off you just need to penetrate the rust bond.
Dan

I had a similar predicament. Let the PB Blast work for a day (get in there and soak into the splines every few hours). After a day of that, use a heat gun or a torch to heat up the aluminum yoke. One side of it is going to free itself up first (either on the rack side or the steering shaft side) and you may want to consider removing the steering rack to get it out of the way and make more room for yourself.

Also, if you're removing and junking that steering universal joint, you may consider cutting a slot 180 degrees from the existing slot. Use a Dremel tool with a small cutoff wheel attachment. Don't go all the way through and damage the splines on the shaft, just part of the way through will be enough to weaken the grip so you can drive a wedge into the slotted side and spread it. Also, do be sure to fully remove the clamping bolt since it will prevent the yoke from spreading far enough (with a typically corroded 20+y/o car). The idea is to loosen it up without pounding too hard and damaging everything else.

Steve