Bob, forget Haynes. Use the illustrated instructions in the FAQ. You will need a spring compressor for coil strut springs. No need to take apart the bottom suspension aside from the sway bar connectors. In essence, you release the nut at the top, then push the entire assembly down (your foot on the control arm), then swing it out from under the fender lip in order to compress the spring and remove the strut.
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See the 700/900 "FAQ" at the menu bar top screen left side.

I have changed the front struts on a 940 and I am sorry I did not take notes at all. I also changed struts on a Plymouth Voyager which was a little easier. Just a few comments - you have to use a pair of spring compressors to take the tension off the spring. To remove the ball joint I used a pitman arm puller, (Google it). A better name would be a ball joint pusher. Tighten it until you think it will brake and rap the bolt end with a hammer. Then tighten is some more and hammer it again. Others have use a pickle fork which would destroy the ball joint rubber seal and some have used a just a hammer. The pitman arm and the spring compressors are free to borrow at Auto Zone or Advanced.

I used Sachs Advantage from FCPG. Real nice for about two weeks and then it settled in to a medium shock.

Oh yeah, I did not use any special tools other than what was mentioned earlier. Recall - I used a pickle fork as a very dull chisel to loosen the strut cartage.

This is a photo of a pitman arm tool I used on a smaller tie rod end. Same principal.

Tom

Edit Add: I used Haynes book and the instructions in the 700/900 FAQ.

Dear robertmfranklin,

Hope you're well. If the procedure set forth in Volvo TP6003201 (Front Suspension) is correct, there's no need to remove the hub, in order to change a strut (shock absorber). Thus, the question of acquiring a 36mm socket does not arise.

Volvo has many specialized tools. They ease work and cut risk of damage to persons and/or to the car. The "C" spanner (British term for "wrench") firmly grips the nut, that secures the shock absorber. One way to ease removal, is to saturate the nut with PB Blaster, or an equivalent penetrating oil. If You have replacement nuts shock absorber nuts, You need not worry about damage done by removal, using other tools.

As to compressing the springs, it is a good idea to use three devices, i.e., to compress the spring at three points, rather than just two. The compression is best done gently, by going from one point to the next, so that the compression is evenly-done. When the spring has been replaced, the compression is released in the same way.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

The diagonal arm usually is best named the 'control arm stay', as it locates the control arm. It has nothing to do with tie rods.

The best way to do this job is to remove the strut from the car, IMO.
In addition to the spring compressor you'll need a ball joint separator, to get it off the control arm. You can take the strut off and do the ball joint after it's out of the way, which may be easier, not sure.
The Bils at $100 each or so are the HD's, which I'd not recommend for you. The ride is 'stiff' at best, and is too harsh for many.
Unfortunately many of the German made shocks that were known to be good have moved production to other countries and results have been other than stellar. Bil Touring can be good, I put some used ones in one of my cars, and they are about $100 for two. But some report fails at low miles. Boge Turbo has been good but I'd solicit other opinions re: wear.
Removal of the gland nut will usually take more than a rap with a screwdriver, but a drift and a BFH will usually do it. When replacing, be careful to not slip and damage the finish of the piston. I wrap it with cardboard so that doesn't happen.
Ball joint bolts are tighten to degree, but prolly 75 is good.
Check sway bar links while you're down there, the lollipop may be bad.

I personally would not use anything from Autozone, Advance, etc.