Volvo RWD 120-130 Forum

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A Quick SU Question 120-130 1967

My 122S hasn't run since 2004. The reason why is because rainwater got into the tank unbeknownst to me. I tried starting the car, and obviously the car wouldn't start due to the contaminated fuel. Anyhow, fast forward to 2011 and I try to start the engine with fuel from a portable tank to pump, carb bowls fill up but still no start. How messed up are these carbs now? I took one off and with full bowl do not get any type of fuel spray. I assume these carbs need to be disassembled cleaned and put back. Any help? Thank you.
--
'67 122s '71 142E '78 245DL








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    A Quick SU Question 120-130 1967

    +1 to all of the other comments. These carbs don't "spray" fuel unless these is airflow into the engine with it running. With the float chamber full enough for the float to close the inlet needle the fuel level should be a fraction below the top of the jet when the mixture is set to normal running position. Clean everything with carb cleaner. Don't try to polish the inside of the dome, just clean with some cleaner on a rag. The dome and piston is matched to give a very tight clearance which gives a good vacuum seal. Don't mix the two up. As said the float bowl flexis are delicate. The seal isn't very high tech and is easily damaged. Water contaminated fuel left for that long in the float chambers could well have evaporated into a nasty dried sludge which has clogged up the pipe and jet.








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    A Quick SU Question 120-130 1967

    I have spark. The car is safe and sound in my driveway and as a little project I'd like to see her run again. How do I get the braided line from the bottom of the bowl off? I unscrewed it but it seems stuck.
    --
    '67 122s '71 142E '78 245DL








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      A Quick SU Question 120-130 1967

      will it run on gas dribbled into the carb throats...bout 1 teaspoon down each?
      re lines: in my experience they unscrew...but if you are rebuilding/cleaning them, take the pair off the car, unbolt the fl bowls from the carb and spin the bowl to unscrew fuel line to the jet. it was specifically these lines
      i was talking about re: breaking something...they are delicate...if you can clean everything without detaching them...safer. use carb cleaner and blow air through etc..
      --
      Patrick, '68 220 (used to drive 240s)








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    A Quick SU Question 120-130 1967

    Sure you could take it all apart and clean them up....or you could throw a little gas down the throats and see if it will start, Usually a motor running at 2000 rpm will pull some gunk out of the carbs and make it start working. BTW you do have spark? It is common for the contact points in the dizzy to get corrosion on them if they have sat for awhile, same for the rotor. Good luck, it's not rocket science, that is why i have a B18.
    --
    Patrick, '68 220 (used to drive 240s)








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    A Quick SU Question 120-130 1967

    Sure you could take it all apart and clean them up....or you could throw a little gas down the throats and see if it will start, Usually a motor running at 2000 rpm will pull some gunk out of the carbs and make it start working. BTW you do have spark? It is common for the contact points in the dizzy to get corrosion on them if they have sat for awhile, same for the rotor. Good luck, it's not rocket science, that is why i have a B18.
    --
    Patrick, '68 220 (used to drive 240s)








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    A Quick SU Question 120-130 1967

    I think you answered your own question.
    Take them off and clean them up. It will be worth it.








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      A Quick SU Question 120-130 1967

      Maybe...then again maybe you will break something during the R&R and you will be further back. It really depends on where you are in the process. If you need to move the car, get her home...whatever, maybe keep it simple......
      --
      Patrick, '68 220 (used to drive 240s)







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