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Okay, had to do a "near emergency" passenger side engine mount swap. In short, I couldn't get the oil filter off since it was against the engine mount. In the past I have done the engine mount swap using a hoist. This time I took a more "sane?" approach. Note, engine mount was 5 years old, oil soaked and had 80K miles on it, originally came from scamtech (not bad).
Time: 45 minutes including 2 cool-down breaks
Tools: 18mm deep well socket
1/2 inch drive ratchet
17mm wrench
10mm socket
floor jack
two jack stands
Steps:
1: Use the floor jack to raise the front of the car by the engine cross member, high enough to get the jack stands under the front factory jack points.
2: Lower floor jack to let the car rest on the jack stands, tread of front tires roughly 2 inches off the ground.
3: Remove belly splash pan with 10mm socket and ratchet.
4: Remove the three 18mm nuts that hold the base of the engine mount to the cross member... 18mm deep well socket and ratchet.
5: From over the top of the passenger side fender, remove the 17mm nut using the wrench at the top of the engine mount, pick the washer off the stud as well if there is one.
6: Place the lift point of the floor jack under the front lip of the bell housing and jack the engine up.
7: Reach over the fender and remove the engine mount along with its base.
8: On the bench, unbolt the mount from the base with the 17mm wrench.
9: Bolt the new mount to the old base with the 17mm wrench.
10: Reinstall the new mount and old base back into the car, line up the three studs with the holes in the cross member. Push the top stud of the mount through the hole on the engine bracket and engage a few threads of the nut to hold it in place. All three studs on the mount base should still be in the holes of the cross member.
11: Let the floor jack down so the mount seats. Tighten up the 17mm nut at the top of the mount from above.
12: Climb underneath and install/tighten the three 18mm nuts on the bottom of the engine cross member.
13: Do your oil and filter change "finally".
14: Reinstall the belly pan using 10mm headed bolts.
15: Get the car down off the jack stands and take it for a test ride... hopefully you will no longer hear the oil pan hitting the steering rack!
For the rear shocks, well, I got sick of the lack of rebound dampening that the Bil HD shocks provided. NOTE: I'm running the 5 year old IPD lowering springs. I replaced them with KYB Gas Adjust shocks. At first, they bolted right up fine but then I realized that their maximum travel was an inch longer than the HD units. That means that the springs come up a bit short and try to leave the top spring perch but stay in place anyway due to the perch design. Beyond that, if you have an under axle exhaust, the axle may now hit it. I call that a small price to pay for proper rear suspension dampening... I just hate looking in the rear view mirror and seeing our Boxers going "weightless" for a moment!
I know the above topic of engine mount replacement has been covered, but this was a far easier way I found to do the job compared to the way I used to do it. On the rear shocks and lowering springs, this is news to me.
Hope the above helps someone out!
jorrell
14:
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92 245 313K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently taking names and kicking reputations!
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I object to your reminding me that I need to replace my engine mounts.
A few years ago, BOTH of my mounts were torn in two - something I only noticed when I went to change the oil and could not remove the filter. At the time, I had just pulled the engine from a parts 240, accessories and all, and it was hanging on the stand. The parts engine had two good motor mounts on it, so I swapped them onto my car and placed an order to Tasca. I intended to swap on brand new mounts as soon as they arrived. I have yet to do so, but I suppose that I must, now that you've reminded me, thank-you-very-much.
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Sean,
If you are so "upset" about my reminding you that you need to replace your engine mounts, please stop by not this weekend but next weekend, we'll swap volvo jobs! I'll swap out the engine mounts on your brick while you wet sand dead clear coat off the top of our 245! After all thank you so very much for reminding me of how shiny your car's paint job is! :)
jorrell
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92 245 315K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently taking names and kicking reputations!
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Lol, no I think I'll take the motor mount job, especially as hot as it has been. Lying on your back in the shade is better than bending over a hot car in the sun.
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But you would have come scrambling out from under that shade this afternoon at ten to two.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
Why do banks leave vault doors open and then chain the pens to the counters.
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Art,
It wasn't that bad down here in NC, our Boxer dog Kelly rated the seismic event at one turd, no damage... who needs a Richter scale when you have a dog!
jorrell
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92 245 315K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently taking names and kicking reputations!
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Lord! I didn't think about that. I'd hate to have been under a car when that happened. As it was, I was in the basement and felt like I was surfing the concrete.
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The oil filter leaning against the mount is Odin's way of saying you need new mounts...
I've changed engine mounts a few times over the years and did it exactly as you described. The driver's side is more of a PITA because of the AC brackets, but fundamentally the same procedure.
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I found my GearWrenches indispensable for doing this.... plus I got away without pulling the filter off.... even though I changed the oil and filter afterwards. :-)
The mount on the other side is a bear. For us rust belters, sometimes the stud in the rubber starts to spin when loosening the nut. At that point, you've got to get creatively destructive. The die-grinder was my friend. The sad thing was that mount was actually in pretty good shape, but I had a new one from Volvo, so.....
As for the rear shocks. Those KYB gas shocks aren't bad. I wish they made a front strut. Here's a tip: Compress the shock with your weight, and tie it with some rope to keep it from expanding. Then you won't have to lower the trailing arm as much to get everything together.
-Ryan
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Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 324k, Dog-hauler
1990 245 DL 142k M47, E-codes, GT Sways/Braces, Dracos, A-cam
1990 744GLE 189K 16-valve
1991 745 GL 304k
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Art the jacking point I used was just on the other side of the trans cooler lines at the front lip of the bell housing brace. I relied on the driver side mount that is in good shape to get the engine to "twist" so the passenger side came up. From your excellent pics (as usual), it appears the jacking points and the removal of the engine side mounting bracket are the only differences. I also did not have to remove the oil filter for this approach which can make for a less "messy" job.
jorrell
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92 245 315K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently taking names and kicking reputations!
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Jorrell
What brand mount was this and how long did it last?
Thanks
Dan
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Dan,
The one that failed was a scantech, roughly 5 years old with 80K miles on it. The new one is a URO, all I could get on short order so I suspect I'll have to replace it just as soon or sooner than the old one.
jorrell
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92 245 313K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently taking names and kicking reputations!
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That is not bad for a scantech.
Dan
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I wrote 18mm socket for the three nuts on the lower mounting bracket, they are actually 15mm nuts so a 15mm socket is in order.
jorrell
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92 245 313K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently taking names and kicking reputations!
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I just noticed mine the other day and ordered a couple from Tasca Volvo since my brothers is in need too. I've done this job about 3 or 4 times in the past.
One question. When your pan would hit the power steering rack was it noticeable over little bumps too. I've got a knocking sound coming from what I thought was my front bushings but since the mount got worse and slid a bit (still keeping the filter off the mount while parked) I've been noticing that sound now coming from both sides of my car. I'm hoping that this will solve it. Got my hopes ups of not having to deal with the bushings and now being able to just get the car alignment fixed so I stop burning through the passenger front tire on the outer edge.
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Yes,
You would notice the oil pan hitting when going over small bumps, unfortunately that is what you hear with bad bushings as well.
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92 245 313K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently taking names and kicking reputations!
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