I have the head off my b18, and I have a choice. I have 3 heads. All will need some shop work. Which would you use?

Head X is a B18B, 4.425" thick with all the exhaust valves burned. This is the one I just took off. It has big intake valves, about 1.670" diameter, and some porting. It has b20 style valve seals, and maybe b20 valves.

Head Y is a B18D, I think. 3.452" thick. Intakes 1.58" across. Has the old standard b18 stem seals, needs a valve job but not as bad as X. May be the original head that came with this engine, it was on there when I got the car.

Head Z is a B20B. 3.414" thick. No injector pads. Intake valves 1.670". Two exhaust valves have sunk into their seats by about 1/16".

the bottom end is so-so, burns oil but cheaper to just run it for now, I think. I plan on a Delta regrind cam and lifters, and a new cam gear and spacer.

Stellite seats?

What cam, should I get a "C" grind?

Head Y. Is the cam in it toast? You don't want to be throwing good money after bad on an oil burner. Just fix it to keep the car going & get another B20 to build up at your leisure.

With Twin SU's & stock springs, nothing is better than a K cam.

--
Three 164's, Two 144's, One 142 & a partridge in a pear tree.

Paul, Change of plan. I have a B20 block in a shop now, and I plan to replace the B18 rather than do anything to it. If you read on down the thread you'll see. Thanks for replying.

I see you favor a K cam...others recommend a D. This is a B20B which will be pretty much stock (although at some point I may install my dual downpipe and replace the Weber with the SU's that are also on the shelf). A question that comes to mind is, how are these cams at startup? Is either one better on low end torque?

K cam works great with stock springs, D cam doesn't. D needs good springs, so if you fit them, you can get an aftermarket grind with higher lift rather than more duration.



--
Three 164's, Two 144's, One 142 & a partridge in a pear tree.

I can relate my personal experience with the K cam---have had one in my '69 144 warmed over B20B for many years. I have also installed many D cams in stock motors while working at a Volvo indy--road tested them but never "lived" with a D cam equipped car. My motor has the original bore (with select fit "G" pistons and NOS Volvo rings), later 44mm intake head (with hardened exhaust seats installed), high (about 11:1) compression ratio, exhaust port matching and some cleaning up in the pockets, '75 Bosch electronic distributor and SU carbs. It is at least as quick as any (stock) B20E I've driven--has gobs of low end torque. You could get the car rolling at idle speed in 3rd gear and drive off without a hitch as soon as the clutch is fully engaged (I don't do this often--but have done it to demonstrate). If you are running a single down pipe now you will be amazed at the performance you'll get after a new cam and the twin downpipe exhaust. -- Dave

It so happens that I'm in need of a B18 bottom end to rebuild, and I see you're not too far from me (I'm on the south end of Whidbey Island). It's important for this particular project that the block is new enough to have the mounting ear for an alternator -- if yours has that, I'd be interested in buying it.

Please let me know...

editor [AT] vclassics [DOT] com

Thanks!

If you are just going to "run it for now" I would put on the Y head.
When you buy a cam get a "D" or a VV71/IPD7001 and NEW lifters.
You probably don't want to run a B20 head with B18 bores.
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Oklahoma

If you are just going to "run it for now" I would put on the Y head.
When you buy a cam get a "D" or a VV71/IPD7001 and NEW lifters.
You probably don't want to run a B20 head with B18 bores.
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Oklahoma

This morning I took the B20B block and crank (which came with the head) to a shop and they will "jet wash" and hone it. This engine has less wear on the cylinders than my B18. So I can keep the same pistons. I ordered rings, gaskets, cam bearings from IPD. I will get crank bearings after the block comes back.

So far, so good. About the head, if some springs are weak (resulting in sunken valves) can I take used springs off another head? Like a B18?

I would plastigage the bearings before buying new ones. They may be good.
The sunken valves are NOT from weak springs - they are from valve seat recession.
You should get hard valve seats installed in those places or in all the exhaust valve seats.
You can test the springs - a good shop should have a spring tester.
But you can pretty well tell if any are collapsed-they will be shorter than the rest.
(free length)
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Oklahoma

So, it's a change in plans, you didn't say you had a B20 block. As George said inserts for lead free running is the way to go. Valve springs aren't expensive and if you have to have new valves, maybe just exhaust ones, fitting new ones will bring your head back to near new condition. A new D or K cam and followers along with the hone and new bearings will bring it back to life. It's a good idea to check the oil pump while its easy to get at. Rear oil seal too but the list could go on!

"you didn't say you had a B20 block"

When the car finally just would not start, and I pulled the head and all the exhaust valves were burnt, I was thinking it would be more economical and quicker to fix the B18. But after a day or so I did change my mind about that. My other vehicle is getting me around okay, so that gives me time. As for money, I decided the B20 (having okay cylinder walls) lets me do top and bottom both. Without buying pistons. And I now own an engine hoist and engine stand from craigs list for $200. So there's no stopping me now. Until I run out of money. That's coming fast.


"Valve springs aren't expensive"

"Expensive" is a relative term. $16 each at IPD. Got another source?


"It's a good idea to check the oil pump while its easy to get at"

Green book for B18 (1966) says, "check that the tooth flank clearance is .006-.014 inch." Mine is about .012. The book also says "the driving shaft with gear is sold as a single unit". Is anybody selling such a unit these days?


"Rear oil seal too but the list could go on!"

I got hold of the new type of timing cover. I probably will seek out a back seal holder...or are the felt ones so bad?