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I was given a brand new Hot-Spark Electronic Ignition Conversion that will fit my specific distributor. Does anyone have experience with them and their installation? No, I'm not considering PerTronix at this point. I'd just like to try this out.
I have a spare distributor that matches the one in my car so I will will keep the one with the points mounted in it handy in the trunk if the electronic one fails while out on the road. I never go anywhere without a toolbox in the trunk, including an 11mm hand wrench, timing light, and dwell meter, so this will be tossed in there too.
Now, I have it all housed and mounted up inside the distributor, but the problem I am running into trying to hook this up is that it states the red wire connects to the positive (+) side of the coil and the black wire connects to the negative (-) of the coil. However, I do not have a modern coil, but rather the OEM coil with the armored cable coming from the ignition to the base of the coil with a negative (-) lead off the top. How would one go about hooking this up? Am I outta luck using this with the OEM coil?
Thanks in advance.
-Jared
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Before I knew how to apply diodes and such I installed a momentary switch under my clutch pedal so that with the clutch pedal down on starting, power would be sent to the ignition , was also a good theft prevention.
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The simplest way is to buy the diode wire kit from ipd, part number E106.
The second simplest way is to visit Radio Shack and duplicate the diode wire kit that ipd offers.
The least simple way - by a long shot - is to use a different ignition coil.
Best,
Cameron
Rose City
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The positive side of the coil is at the same potential (12 volts) as any circuit that
is alive with the ignition switched on. Therefore you could (for example) hook it to your
windshield wiper circuit. Just be sure that it is NOT hot with the ignition switched off!
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Oklahoma
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Yes, but: many of the circuits that are hot with the ignition switch in the "on" position are *not* hot when the ignition switch is in the "start" position.
Example: wipers. They run when the key is 'on,' but stop working when the starter is engaged. Given that, you wouldn't have power to the ignition while engaging the starter.
You could work around this with a starter button, which isn't a bad thing to have. They run about $4 at the local generic auto parts stores.
Best,
Cameron
Rose City
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Hey Cameron,
Actually, I already start my car with a starter button mounted in the same location where OEM fogs would have been, that way I don't twist my key off in the ignition, as that spring is so damned strong.
So just hook the red wire into the hot side of that? How about you come over and hook it up for me? J/K
I think I might be able to manage, if that's an easy way to do it.
-Jared
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Oem fogs? On a 122?
If you're already using a starter button, connect the 12v+ wire from the "hot spark" to a circuit that's hot only when the key is in the 'run' position and the [-] wire to the [-] side of the coil.
Turn the key, push the button, reset the timing [this is really really important and often overlooked], drive the car.
Or I'll be happy to do it for you, but I don't do this stuff gratis. Bribes or barter. Sorry.
Best,
Cameron
Rose City
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Alright, I've got is all hooked up and running great. However, I have a question:
I had a Smith's 122 optional factory dash tach hooked up to the old distributor. One white wire down to the distributor and the other white wire connected to the (-) side of the coil, no other wire between distributor and coil.
Now how can I hook this up to the new ignition? Can the tach act as a bridge between the (-) side of the ignition and (-) of coil similar to how it was hooked up to the old distributor? I ask so that I don't potentially fry my ignition while fiddling with wires.
In other words:
Black wire from ignition to white wire of tach...
Then the other white wire of tach to (-) side of coil?
Thanks!
-Jared
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Nevermind, the tach is now working. I took a risk and it worked as I thought.
Thanks all for your help on how to hook this ignition up.
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Umm, OEM/optional I suppose, but I am told that the hole in the dash (same place as storage tray light knob on opposite side) was the spot for the on/off knob for fog/driving lights...
Anyways - umm, I dunno if I have much to offer besides some cold refreshments and some BBQ. Ha, I dunno.
Anyway, I think I have it figured out based on your suggestion. And setting timing is imperitive since I'm swapping distributor bodies.
Thanks all!
-Jared
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Ok Cameron, I'll check that out. Thanks!
And George, hmm, that's the same circuit I have my driving lights connected to. Shuts off when the key turns off. So I can connect to a switched 12v source for my positive side and the black wire can connect to the top of the coil? Also, will a diode kit be used in this?
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Hello,
There are several ways to connect your aftermarket ignition.
The easiest way is to get power from the switched circuit from the fusebox.
However the original coil assembly loses switched powered when you start the car and comes back on when the ignition switch goes back to the run position.
So you need to have a supplemental power source for the aftermarket ignition when cranking the starter.
The later starter solenoids have a pole for a cold start injector that gets power only when the starter is working.
This pole has an internal diode so power from the fusebox for the aftermarket ignition will not back feed the starter solenoid.
If you do not have the later style starter solenoid, you can get power from the starter trigger wire in conjunction with a Radio Shack diode to power up the aftermarket ignition while cranking.
--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
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