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Temperature gauge no working 900 1992

posted by  someone claiming to be Boris on  Sun Jul 24 06:51 CST 2011 [RELATED]

Temp gauge on my 1992 940T stopped working. If I hit the dash lightly, it would some times come back. Now it appears dead for the count...What is the usual culprit, the gauge itself, the sensor under the intake manifold, or perhaps lose ground some place else?







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    Temperature gauge no working 900 1992

    posted by  trichard on  Sun Jul 24 08:42 CST 2011
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    last visit: Fri Oct 24 05:52 CST 2014
    [RELATED]

    start at the source, the circuit board film on the back.

    remove the cluster and re-flow carefully every little domed solder joint on the film circuit board.

    i say this because you wrote tapping the cluster had previously restored the functioning. this suggests to me the problem is in the cluster itself.








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      Temperature gauge no working 900 1992

      posted by  huskerdooo on  Mon Jul 25 07:17 CST 2011
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      last visit: Thu Dec 19 09:15 CST 2013
      [RELATED]

      I agree with trichard.

      Reflowing everything isn't a bad job. I took out the cluster, reflowed it, and had it back in the car in about an hour.

      One warning though.. I'd use a pencil type electronics iron with no more than 40W max on the solder joints.

      Preheat the iron. Place on a joint. You will see the joint melt because the surface of the joint will look different. Once it looks different, get the heat off the joint asap. Do this with every joint you find.

      On mine, I also retighted the gas guage screws (3 i think) and then actually soldered over them to make sure I had a permanent connection.

      Cheers, Seth








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        Temperature gauge no working 900 1992

        posted by  spook on  Mon Jul 25 07:35 CST 2011
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        last visit: Fri Oct 24 08:06 CST 2014
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        Dear Huskerdooo,

        Hope you're well. To your advice I'd add. A 25-watt soldering iron provides a margin of safety. If it necessary to add solder, use only rosin-core solder. Solder suitable for plumbing is acid-core, which should not be used on electrical/electronic items.

        When the factory-installed solder changes color from dull gray to shiny silver, it has liquefied. Any micro-cracks in the joint will then be closed-up.

        I would not solder the gas gauge screws. This will greatly complicate removal, should that ever be needed.

        Remove the gauge screws and examine the underside of each screw head and the screw head's contact area on the circuit panel. If there's corrosion (white or greenish film) there - or on the circuit panel - gently and carefully polish with very fine steel wool and re-install the screws. Tighten until snug.

        If your car lives in an area with high humidity, you can seal the connection between the gauge screws and the circuit panel. After you have snugged the gauge screws, use a cotton-tipped swab to apply a thin coating of di-electric grease around the side of the screw heads. That will keep airborne moisture from getting under the screw head, and causing corrosion.

        Hope this helps.

        Yours faithfully,

        Spook







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