It is a 1988 240 with 140k miles. Died while driving -- just like I cut the key off. All lights work and it turns over fine, just no start.

Now, I am second guessing myself and what I should have done.

I was by myself and when it died, being on the side of the road, I couldn't hear the pump running because of the traffic noise. I replaced the FP relay (keep an extra with me), no good. Then jumped between fuse 4 and 6 -- no good. Checked 25 amp fuse under hood -- looked good. Unplugged the AMM and tried to start -- no good. So, I check fuses in the cab and all were also good.

Didn't see anything obvious under the hood and in the fuse box, so my question is: Being by myself and not able to check fire and that fuel pump was working, what else should I have done?

Sad to see it on the back of a flatbed -- I feel like I am forgetting something and there was more for me to do. Any suggestions will go to the memory bank!

Thanks guys;

randyB

timing belt

thanks for the response!

I don't think so because I have had them break before and the engine turns over faster than normal and this one didn't.

Again, thanks

randyB

Replace fuses 4 and 6 and make sure they are tight in the holder. Make sure the connections for the 25 amp fuse at the battery and the fuse holder are corrosion free, clean, and tight.

Check for fuel and spark.
Dan

Thanks for the response.

That is what I am second guessing myself on ... how to check fuel and spark when by yourself and on the side of the road...really frustrating. I feel like there was a way, but I just didn't know how, or didn't remember.

thanks again;

randyB

Hi Randy,

There are two things I learned that helped me a lot.

First, long ago, before ever hearing of Volvos, I learned fuses can't be verified by looking at them. The notion we can do this comes from seeing one wide open and blackened. Applying that lesson to the car means I have a test light in the glove box. The only way you can verify a fuse is to see that it passes the juice under load.

Second, I learned seven or eight years ago, right here on this forum, 240's with B230 engines (85-) until 91 can be driven across town with no fuses at all in the interior panel. The caveat is you'll get a ticket for no brake/tail/indicator lamps. In 91, the one critical engine fuse got moved inside to #6, which previously did absolutely nothing.

I've added a couple glove box items. Along with the test light, is a short jumper that might be useful to, say, bypass the fuel relay, and a long jumper wire, useful for cranking from the starter test socket while under the hood. Junkyard finds. To that, I've added a spark plug, so I don't have to pull one to check for spark.

So using that kit and your roadside symptoms, I think I would proceed like this:

1) pop the hood, remove the oil cap, and check the cam is turning.
2) pop the cover from the fuel relay to observe the system relay engages with key on and the fuel relay engages with cranking.
3) pull the center distributor wire, put a plug on it, and check for spark.

By now I know what is missing, In all but a few rare cases.

But, keeping your wits about you when cars are whizzing by, is more about safety, than efficient diagnosis. 95% of your brainpower should be focused on the safest thing to do, which in many cases, is getting well clear of that crash magnet, and on the phone.


--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

If you lend someone $20 and never see that person again, it was probably worth it.

Hey Art;

It turns out I did the right thing by calling a wrecker. Turns out it was the FI control box (I think that is what it is called)on the passenger side front (next to the windshield washer bottle).


I had another unit I had taken out a junkyard car. Question is, do you know the different numbers and which were the latest, or does it matter?

The one that came out had a number of 3517641 (red plug) and the one he put back in there was 1346107 (white plug). I have another here at home that is a 1357308 (white plug). Is this number a version number (Means anything?)or just an ID number for the car it is installed in??

Which is the latest and/or more desirable??? Also, this will keep it from having fire and fuel, correct??? Because that is what he said was going on.

Anyway, thanks as always!

Thanks again;

randyB

Great outline, Art, and the emphasis on safety is paramount! Sometimes it's safer just to "make the call" and get the car off of the road.
--
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid

Thanks Art for the information!

You said something that hits home and I have also slept on it now ... I think I did do the right thing after all by using my phone and getting help. Hard for me to realize that I can't do something, but I am safe and the car is in good hands.

I guess I was just riding along with the attitude "it could never happen to me". Well, I got my wake up call and heard it loud and clear. So nothing in the trunk or glove box that could help (except for a short piece of wire to jumper between fuse 4 and 6).

Great ideas for the glovebox emergency kit! I had never given the spark plug a thought ... brilliant idea... and like most brilliant ideas, simple to do.

As always, thanks Art. I read your posts with interest and find your approach to be as simple as a spark plug in the glovebox (LOL) to as complex as explaining the workings of the 240 electrical system in great detail. Good to have your sage advice as close as here on the board. It is a comfort to us all.

randyB

You can pull a plug and see if it is wet and then with the plug wire attached lay it against the engine so the case is grounded. Place the plug so you can see it when trying to start it.
Dan