Have 2 240's (Bricks) in the house, an S60 and a '93 940. My impression of the 900 series is that the Swedes tried to americanize the Brick adding luxury features that fail, - many things are broken on that car - power sunroof, A/C, door hinge, cabin ducts,BUT the B230 motor and powertrain are at 265k miles and still running - my recommendation is to Stick with the Brick (240)

good luck
--
Greg Caggia '93 240, '93 940 & '04 S60

If the 240 is in good shape it is a better choice as a first car. Simple, bulletproof 4 cylinder engine and drivetrain. As suggested have it checked out by a knowledgable person.

The replies you've been getting remind me of the decision I had to make in 1966 when I needed a car to make the NY to Kansas City trip for school. Choice was between the $200 1960 T-Bird I was fixing and driving--with it's 390 engine, A/C, power everything and a $10 1960 Valiant my dad bought just as a ride back from the out of state dealer auction he attended--with its 170 slant six and 3 on the floor and no power nothin'. The Valiant made those trips practically cost free with a few paying riders. Take everyone's advice--stay away from high maintenance cars like the 960. There are plenty of 240, 740 and 940 cars available which will provide safety and reliability at not much cost. Buy the best car for your money but put 1/4 your budget away for near future repairs which ALWAYS pop up. Whatever you find--it's worth the cost to have it looked at by someone who knows the cars. Good luck---Dave

Don't buy a 960 as a starter car. You want a happy experience with your first car, and a 960 won't be it. Find a 940 if you must have a Volvo. If you decide to buy a brand other than a Volvo, buy a Camry four cylinder.

I would echo the comments of several other posters, this is a high-end luxury car that is going to be ferociously expensive to fix and maintain.

The 960's engine is an interference design. The first generation of the engine in the 1992 - 1994 model years has a well-deserved reputation for breaking timing belts and destroying the engine. By 1996 Volvo had made some engine design changes that improved the situation, but in my opinion the timing belt is still a weak area of the engine.

The climate control system of the 960 is VERY complex, and relies heavily on vacuum motors and valves to function. As the hoses and components age and develop leaks the system will begin to function erratically. Many of the components are unique to Volvo, very expensive to purchase new, difficult to find in junkyards, and buried deep in the dashboard, making repairs difficult or expensive. Unless you can verify before purchase that all the climate controls work, that air moves to the correct vents when you operate the controls and the recirculate control works correctly, budget at least $1,000 for fixing the climate control.

Since the seller has told you the A/C is inoperable, assume that you may end up spending any or all of the following to fix it:

New compressor: $400 - $800, depending on source and who made it.
New condensor: $200 - $900 (I don't know which end of the range a 96 960 falls)
New evaporator: ~$500, (plus typically 8 hours of labor to install, it's buried in the dash)

Assume a new dryer (~$100), and frequently the coolant lines in the engine bay need to be replaced (~$300). Don't forget new o-rings and a refrigerant charge, (~$200).

My personal experience is that A/C repair on ANY Volvo starts at $1,000 and can hit $3,000 for a severely deteriorated system.

I also expect when buying a car of this vintage that the brake system has been neglected. Expect to replace all main brake pads, all four rotors, and some number of calipers, as well as the parking brake cable and shoes. Budget $1,000 for parts, and at least that much for labor if you don't do the work yourself.

Last, but not least, take a hard look at the suspension, particularly the bushings. It's complex and VERY expensive to repair. If it's got Nivomat self-leveling shocks in the back, they cost $~400 EACH, and are failure-prone. If the back end is sitting low and doesn't rise up when the car is driven, be warned....$1,000 repair bill incoming.

Unless you can talk personally to the guy who recently replaced it, plan on a new timing belt, water pump and accessory belt ($600 - $900) immediately after taking delivery of the car.

Personally, I'd only pay $2,500 for a 960 with working A/C + climate control and verified good working brakes.

By way of reference, I own the following Volvo's:

1991 940SE. Paid $800 for the car, have over $6,000 in repairs/upgrades
1992 940GL. Paid $600 for the car, $5,000 in repairs, including a $2k A/C rebuild and a $1,400 complete brake system rebuild.

And I did MOST of the labor personally on both cars. Those numbers would have doubled if I had paid a mechanic to do it all.

What I hope you come out of this with is an understanding that this is NOT a $2,500 car. It's a $6,000 to $10,000 car. If you can afford it, and are willing to invest the effort, it could be a wonderful car. If what you need is to spend $2,500 on some reliable transportation, I don't think this is the right car for you.

Louis,

Are you planning on learning how to do basic DIY maintenance and repair on the car? Does your Volvo-loving uncle live nearby enough to assist you when necessary? If so, then a 240 or 940 is worth considering. Simple, over-engineered cars that are extremely forgiving.

A 960 is a luxury car, and will be expensive to maintain. Because of the complexity of the engine, it is a poor choice to learn DIY mechanic skills on.
That 960 is overpriced at $2500 with no A/C.

In general:
"needs a compressor" could indicate 2 things. (1) a refrigerant leak SOMEWHERE in the system led pressure to drop to the point where a pressure switch is cutting power to the compressor. The owner sees that they press the A/C button and the compressor doesn't turn on, they assume the compressor is broken--actually, the system is SAVING the compressor from damage by keeping it off! Just a matter of finding and fixing the leak, replacing the accumulator, and recharging the system with refrigerant. OR (2) the compressor failed and blew metal chunks into the system, in which case the A/C would cost a fortune to fix.


If you don't intend to "fix it yourself" but rather take it to a mechanic for everything, buy whatever you want. But realize that ANY older car will bleed your wallet dry if you take it to the professionals for everything.

john




--
1989 245 233K / 1993 945 127K

Hello, I have a 95 960, and it is in solid shape. The 960 is a very comfortable luxurious ride, but it needs to have scheduled maintenance done by the book. You will need to have access to some used 960's in a wrecker, and to a good independent Volvo mechanic to help save on the cost of maintenance. Dealers know very little at times, and replace whole series of expensive parts that could have had one part as a fix.

The 960 has an interference engine, so it is important to know if the timing belt has ever broken. If yes, might not be a good purchase. If you do buy it, consider doing everything in point 1, below.

The compressor is expensive, but you will need it for a/c. It costs about $400, plus installation. I bought mine new from Sanden through Carquest. I hear that after market compressors are a risky choice, and new is a better way in my view.

Good luck, and let us know.


What to do With a New To You Volvo 960 $1469

1. Timing Belt, tensioner, idler pully, spring damper, water pump ($550)

2. Replace Flame trap & seal ($10)

3. Replace serpentine belt ($35)

4. Clean throttle body, IAC with throttle body cleaner ($10)

5. Check codes, record, clear all

6. Test/replace battery ($130)

7. Replace oil filler cap gasket ($4.00)

8. Replace brake pads, slider pin boots, clean & lube slider pins, calipers ($100)

9. Spark plugs ($38)

10. Air filter ($40)

11. Vacuum elbows ($2.00 each)

12. Oil, filter, 10w30 ($40)

13. Replace fuel filter ($25)

14. Flush transmission fluid using rad line, Dexron III atf ($70)

15. Flush coolant, use Volvo blue, 50/50, water/coolant ($40)

16. Silicone spray rubber door, hood, trunk seals ($5)

17. Consider getting car completely detailed, esp engine shampoo. Makes it easier to see leaks, preserves hoses, vacuum elbows, easier to work on ($220)

18. After above, consider getting car appraised. It is an older car, and an appraisal will help preserve it’s value in the eyes of insurers ($150 1st time, $65 after that)

19. Check: engine mounts, control arm bushings, sway bars, rad hoses, upper rad neck, brake flex lines, parking brake condition, tie rod assembly

don't even consider a 960 volvo. the list of why not is too long.
buy a sound 240 or 940 and you'll be much much happier.

Yeah! A 1990 Volvo 420 DL! How Haight-Ashbury! Or you mean the Mercedes model? (Hope not.)

No, really, you mean a 1990 240 DL, of course!

For the 960 you are looking at, see right here at brickboard's own Volvo 700-900 series FAQ: (http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/)

Refer to any information in the FAQ of what to look for in a Volvo before buying. You have the purchase price, yet, with any used Volvo, you have wear items requiring repair or replacement, prior owner neglect and abuse, condition issues caused by environment and age (like rust caused by Wintertime road salt on Midwestern and Northeastern city roads and maritime environment salt spray).

Also, please consider your electro-mechanical understanding and ability, your tool set, how much you are willing to spend to care for your used, (new to you) Volvo, and where you can perform repairs safely, and so on.

The 1996 960 sedan looks nice. Shiny! The 960/S90/V90 series, I believe, all come with the rear independent rear suspension with the Nivamat self-leveling rear shock absorbers. I think by 1996, yet am not sure, the Porsche-Volvo white block inline six cylinder, double overhead cam, and usually turbo charged engine, does not have engine block porosity issues. Some block had small pinholes that could eventually leak coolant through the aluminum alloy casted block (with steel cylinders). AC compressor failure happens. Consider the entire AC system suspect (seals, condenser, and the like) and verify the entire system in good condition. Usually, an AC system refrigerant leak forms, and the prior owner chooses not to repair it, causing the unused compressor to seize from non use. If so, you have the drier to replace, all seals, and the leaking component (seals, hoses, evaporator in the dash, condenser, drier, or ????).

The 1990 Volvo 240 look nice in the images. Nice color. Again, the information of what you need to look for with a used (new to you) Volvo in the 700-900 FAQ can help as the 700-900 series use the same engine; the four cylinder non-turbo B230. Point by point in the ad:
- You can by the plastic odometer gears from sources other than IPD for a little less to replace the broken gears preventing the odometer from counting up miles. Taking the speedo-odo to a shop for repair is very expensive.
- Seems like some wear items have been replaced. Research brickboard for wear items that typically fail.
- Ask the owner why they are selling it>
- Compare prices on like makes/models on completed eBay auctions, NADA, Kelley Blue Book, and the like. You can look at craigslist sites for other cities to price out similar 1990 Volvos. 1990 is a good year.
- Caveat emptor, as with any used auto. Verify the auto is in a condition you can afford.

I'm unsure which to advocate. Caveat emptor (buyer beware)! Exhaustively research and make an informed choice.

Thanks,

MacDuff.
--
I've owned only ever Volvo 240s since 1985.
RIP, yet beloved:
1975 244 DL (B20, M40, OHV B20F RULES!)
1976 242 DL (B21, M46, Moonroof - an SRO?)
1979 245 DL (B21, M46, From Midwest to West Coast)
1979 242 GT (B21, M46, Moonroof - an SRO? Grey Market from Holland-
-Failed West Coast Dreams, RIP, Taylors Junkyard,
St. Louis, MO, June 2001)
........................................................................
Currently owned, beloved, operating, and getting better all the time(!):
1990 240 DL (245, B230, M47 II)
1991 240 (B230, M47 II, Moonroof. Grey Market from Germany)
1992 240 GL (B230, M47 II, L-jet 3.1, Moonroof)
........................................................................