I just put my distributor back in my '68 with a pertronix ignition installed (had the distributor rebuilt and they installed the pertronix at the same time). My car has the single terminal coil - armored cable from ignitin switch to coil, so i bought the diode wiring kit from IPD.

To be honest, i consider myself next to hopeless when it cmes to wiring, but i was told this was an easy process. Anyhow, i did what the instructions said... was a little confused where to connect the wires from the diode kit (one being to the solenoid on the starter and the other to a 12 volt key-on power source).

I know that if I at least got the wire going to the solenoid correct the car would fire up but die when the key switched to the run position. However, i get no start at all. It cranks and sounds like it really wants to fire up but no dice.

Any thoughts or folks who have been down this path???

The reason I mentioned the tach was because a few years ago for some reason that I can't remember now, I remove the wire at the back of the tachometer and the car wouldn't run. so I assumed there was some loop involved with the coil.

I had a chance to look at the way I wired in the Pertronix..
From the distributor the red wire goes to terminal marked 15+ on the coil.. and the black wire is spliced to the white wire lead that goes through the fire wall(that I assumed went to the tach).. Now that white wire that goes through the fire wall is in the same insulation jacket as a red wire and that red wire is terminated on the neg-1 terminal.

Hope this helps and remember mine is a 71-1800e and the Pertronix ignition model I used is #1847v..

Bob

I put one in my 71 1800 a few years ago.. As I recall the leads have to loop through the tachometer in order for it to work.. I can take a look at mine to see how I wired it but I won't have a chance until Saturday..

PS the wires are already going from the tach to the silnoid it just a matter of wiring them correctly.

Bob

Bob;

I know you are trying to help, but somehow your info brings up more questions in my mind than it answers...do you mean that wires have to loop through tach pickup for Ignition to work? (impossible and just plain incorrect) or for tach to work (correct but irrelevant to the question)?

"wires are already going from the tach to the silnoid " is also of questionable help...in an injected model 1800 (so >'69, and subject vehicle is a '68)... wires do run between solenoid (Term 50) and Injection System, but none run as you suggest according to the '71E and '73ES wiring diagrams. You could explain this.

Cheers

Hey Ron, Take a look at this message above this one, (About 123 ignition)

Planetman response dated May 29 12:31 cst.. Maybe I'm not crazy after all..

Bob

97-850,92-940, 71-1800E

Jacques;

If instructions as simple as: Connect one wire to the solenoid control terminal (i.e. Term50 on IGN Sw), and one to a "12 volt key-on power source" (i.e. Term54 on Ign Sw) are a "confusing" to you, then maybe you should consider having this work done by other parties...or getting some basic training and instruction to help build your confidence...

The Pertronics kit works by taking a sensor signal and triggering a transistor as a switch to pass the coil primary current (instead of this function being performed by the points contacts). It needs power to the control electronics to do this...during running (obviously) AND also during cranking...but terminal 54 is unpowered during cranking for Load-shedding...therefore the need for the Oring diodes.

Suggested reading: http://www.sw-em.com/Ignition_Additional.htm#Discussion_of_Ballast_Resistor

I suggest you check for spark during cranking...if you have spark, check timing, if both are OK, something else may not be right...what else was changed, and or done?? Need info!

Good Hunting!