Just pulled into the garage and the oil idiot light started to glow, then one of the others also. Turned car off and restarted, still glowing, then noticed mucho smoke, which I thought was coming from the engine exhaust. Turned car off again and popped hood and noticed small fire below the alternator and to the side(front) of the oil filter. Used the fire extinguisher that has been hanging on the wall forever to put it out.

I am going to guess from closer examination that the wire bundle that goes to the alternator must have warn through the insulation and started the fire.

How difficult is this wire/harness to replace and is there any splicing involved. Do you guys know if IPD sells something like this.

Thanks in advance
--
1993 240, 1992 240GL, 1985 240DL Wagon, 1983 240DL

If you have a junker set of jumper cables, just split off one side and use that.

Just make certain that it is at least the same gauge as the wire you are replacing.

There are 3 wires in the harness. Thin blk for oil, thin red for alt, thick red for alt.

Reroute the thin blk and red from the gray plug, along firewall to passenger inner fender to oil sender and alt.

Thick red, if salvageable, just re-sheath in clear vinyl tubing available from hardware stores. Even if a replacement is required, use vinyl tubing as added protection.
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont.

You are probably going to need a replacement harness. Some PnPs or a Volvo dealer may tell you which years use the same harness. Check if the ground wire for the alternator is in good condition. You could also have the alternator tested. I think these would be needed regardless of the cause. For more details about connections k-jet.org has the factory wiring manuals.

Disconnect the battery if you have not already, the hot line between the alternator-starter-battery is unswitched and unfused.
--
1989 245 233K / 1993 945 127K

Already disconnected the positive & negative cables!
--
1993 240, 1992 240GL, 1985 240DL Wagon, 1983 240DL

So, this is the '93?

You might be right about the wiring -- sounds that way, but there's no way any of us here on the internet are going to pin down the cause of the fire better than someone who can actually look at it. I suggest you thoroughly understand whatever happened before reconnecting those battery cables, especially indoors. If you don't figure it out, get some professional eyes on it.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

When the smog lifts in Los Angeles, U. C. L. A.

Art- just got done removing that harness and pulling it back. The was an area where the wires in the harness appeared to be fused together(also noticed harness clamp in this area was not fastened to the block/frame), so I can only guess that after years of chaffing!!!!!!!!!!

By the way--does anyone know where(besides the dealer) I can get another harness?

Thx
--
1993 240, 1992 240GL, 1985 240DL Wagon, 1983 240DL

Junk yards should be full of them as they don't usually go bad. Other years may also be compatible but I do not know.

In the mean time can you splice around the problems?

Dan

I probably could splice around it for the smaller wires, however the larger red wire is to big to "splice".

Does anyone know if the larger red wire from the alternator goes directly to the battery or back to the starter?
--
1993 240, 1992 240GL, 1985 240DL Wagon, 1983 240DL

Until you get it apart and know the extent of the damage we are just speculating. The alt/ starter cable may have fused all the wires together in that bundle.
Dan

Mex,


Have you actually removed the harness yet? The insulation didn’t just melt at the end, it melted the entire length of the harness. There is no way to ‘‘Splice around it’’ because the entire length of the harness is damaged.

Automotive electric fires are devastating. It took me months just to work around mine.

http://www.unm.edu/~goatman/fire.jpg


Goatman

P.S. I put my alternator B+ on the starter B+.

Harness has been removed at alternator end and cut off about a foot back. Damage seems to be limited to a 1" spot about 8" from the alternator end where engine/frame contact was made.
--
1993 240, 1992 240GL, 1985 240DL Wagon, 1983 240DL

Neat!


It should be easy to repair then. When my headlamp circuit fried, it cut (melted) through the harness all the way to the battery.


Goatman

In regards to repairing the damaged section I cut out of the harness:

1. Is it ok to use a larger diameter wire to replace the wire that goes between the alternator and the starter? I have a feeling that the only wire I am going to be able to get at the auto parts store is going to be a battery wire.

2. If not, how do I splice something this large?
--
1993 240, 1992 240GL, 1985 240DL Wagon, 1983 240DL

Hi,


I used #8. I wouldn’t go above 4. They sell those yellow ring terminals and plastic loom at NAPA too. You crimp them on with a crimper, don’t try to use pliers, it won’t work.


Goatman

Is 8 gauge the size of the stock large wire in the harness?

Looks like I'll be visiting NAPA to get what I need to build a replacement for the larger cable and I'll splice, solder and shrink tube wrap the 2 smaller wires in the harness.
--
1993 240, 1992 240GL, 1985 240DL Wagon, 1983 240DL

Found a 4 gauge wire with the correct ends at Auto zone. This isn't to thick to use, is it?
--
1993 240, 1992 240GL, 1985 240DL Wagon, 1983 240DL

HI - You are truly lucky to not have the whole car burn up!!

The fire was from a dead short between the positive battery terminal and the block/ground. That provides about the same amp current needed to start the engine (500+) or to weld something.

The wire carries the charging current from the alternator to the battery, via the starter. Again, can be a lot of amps.

The wire from NAPA will work. Better a little fatter than too thin.

With the terminals on it, splicing should be unnecessary, a good thing.
I have used butt connectors on the battery-to-starter wire, they worked OK, but no splice at all is much better.

The thin red and thin gray (black) wires can be spliced up and routed again under the engine, OR - as recommended - re-routed from that gray connector on the firewall along the fender to the engine. Anchor them lightly on the fender well, and leave a good bit of slack to allow for engine movement.

If the black wire gets grounded, you get the "oil" light on all the time. If the red wire gets grounded, you get the "alt" light on all the time and the alternator won't charge.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)

Thanks Bob, very informative...........
--
1993 240, 1992 240GL, 1985 240DL Wagon, 1983 240DL

Hi,


The thicker the better, generally, as long as it fits. You wouldn't run a battery cable to the dome lamp, although it would work.


Goatman

Thanks Goatman..........
--
1993 240, 1992 240GL, 1985 240DL Wagon, 1983 240DL

Can you get one from a junk yard?
Dan