So, 1st gear is a pain... Rev is kinda grinding. I'm going to inspect the clutch cable play and try changing the transmission oil. It's an M47.. Question is: If this doesn't work, how difficult is replacing the transmission? At that point, either a rebuild or just replacing with a used properly working tran might be the way to go. A used one can go anywhere from 300-700. A rebuild, probably the same. Anyone have any opinions?

Someone recently corrected me about NOT using standard oil in M47 transmissions. M46's use ATF or 10w-30 or 20w-50, but the M47's require some special factory synthetic lube.

Just thought I'd share. If you want to look, it was on a thread I did not start where I chimed in and someone else said hold up, m46=/=m47.

Bork,


I thought the M47 fill is $150/qt, dealer only. It was said that using the wrong fluid will destroy the transmission quickly, and was shown from experience.

I would say that the difficulty of removing and installing a different gearbox would be a 7 of 10.

If you were to find a core transmission, you could start rebuilding it yourself, and see how it goes.


Goatman

So I shouldn't rely on the 700/900 faq about transmission fluid replacement?... 150 a qt?... Geez, what about redline MTL?

Bork,


I may have been thinking of the M56 for the FWD Volvos.

If you live in a hot climate, Mobil 1 10w-30 should work well. If it has ATF now, I would use Redline. Any additive clash could exacerbate any worn bearings.

I would wait still, I can't find the post I was thinking about.
Goatman

Bork,


I may have been thinking of the M56 for the FWD Volvos.

If you live in a hot climate, Mobil 1 10w-30 should work well. If it has ATF now, I would use Redline. Any additive clash could exacerbate any worn bearings.


Goatman

Redline Racing ATF (type F)?.. or Redline MTL? I was planning to do a flush and fill with ATF (type F) (generic brand) and the final fill with Redline, either MTL or ATF (type F) I live in NYC, so no super hot weather here.

A used one can go anywhere from 300-700. A rebuild, probably the same. Anyone have any opinions?

I don't have any experience with the M47's but when you price a rebuilt unit you will want to be seated when the price is quoted...

Randy

Have you ever pulled a manual Trani on any other car?? I say it is on Parr with basic old school American Manual Tranis.
People have complained about the toughness to get to the Bellhousing bolts. With 2' of extension and attacking it from under the car, I didn't think it was a problem.

On every make trani I have put back in the car I always have a tough time getting the shaft to find teh Pilot Bearing.
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html

i got at that dreaded top bellhousing bolt with 2 feet of extension through the shifter hole. you need two people; one to line it up and keep the socket on the bolt and the other to break.

I figured it's a two person job w/a good floor jack.. I believe I've seen it done by one person before, but it never hurts to have another set of hands. Especially if you run into trouble. But, I was wondering the success rate of do-it-yourselfer jobs like this. Or, how many other things should be replaced for a proper job. I hate getting down to an expensive job, only to find some other parts are needed.

Transmission swap is pretty simple, its just a bit of a grunt. You should be able to do it in a day, two tops. If you are doing it under the car, make sure you have it jacked up and blocked as high as you can (maybe 30 inches). It helps to have someone to assist you to remove the old one and slide the new one back in, but I have done it on my own. I used winch straps through the trans tunnel from inside the car to support it when I was lining it up. Take the opportunity to replace the clutch assembly, throw out bearing and engine rear seal.
JD