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I'm getting set to replace the front strut cartridges on my 1990 245. After having tried to loosen the gland nut with my giant channel locks, I ordered a 2-3/16" hook spanner. That's on it's way, so we'll see if it works any better. I've heard of some people using pipe wrenches, but I don't see how that could be any better than my channel locks. It could be that the channel locks I have are too large because the handle hits the fender when I'm cranking on it. Getting at the gland nut is a pain with the spring coil in the way. Anyone got any tips?
Also, does anyone have any experience with the URO brand of upper strut bearing plates? These are considerably cheaper than the SKF ones that eEuroparts has for sale. I've heard people complain about the Scan-Tech ones, but not these. Opinions?
Do I need to order the front strut spacers when I get the Sachs/Boge touring struts?
Steve
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Channel locks are pretty wimpy. For really stuck gland nuts, here in the rust belt, I've used a pair of 24" pipe wrenches and just *barely* got the gland nuts off.
For 240 strut mounts, don't waste your money on anything but genuine Volvo mounts. Any and all aftermarket parts have been proven to be junk.
-Ryan
--
Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 324k, Dog-hauler
1990 245 DL 142k M47, E-codes, GT Sways/Braces, Dracos, A-cam
1990 744GLE 189K 16-valve
1991 745 GL 304k
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Ryan, what does Volvo get for the OEM strut bearings? No doubt they're good because mine are probably original with 250k. Please don't tell me they're over $100 each...
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Tasca charges $73 per side. p/n 1272455.
-Ryan
--
Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 324k, Dog-hauler
1990 245 DL 142k M47, E-codes, GT Sways/Braces, Dracos, A-cam
1990 744GLE 189K 16-valve
1991 745 GL 304k
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Thanks Ryan! I was just checking out their website. Their prices are very reasonable for dealer OEM parts.
I also have a Ford Focus, so Tasca will REALLY come in handy! The local Ford dealers try to savagely burn me on parts prices. The first thing I learned about the Focus is that it is "snap together, break apart." Even the clutch master cyl is made of plastic. I wouldn't object if it were good quality plastic, but everything shatters (even when the car was brand new).
Steve
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pipe wrenches are MUCH better suited for that gland nut.
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I have attached a link to a document noting some of my learnings concerning strut replacement with pictures. It shows the spanner wrenches I use and where I got those spanner wrenches. Also, a number of tips that might be helpful to you. Most tips are intended to reduce brute force, spare bodily injury and in general gain satisfaction in preparing for a job well done.
http://sitemaker.umich.edu/mdmmath.aghs/mike_s_volvo_procedures
For the fun of Volvos,
Mike
--
'83 245 GLT, '92 245DL, '90 760 GLT
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Mike,
I can't get your link to open a page...
I also removed the three _, but no page.
Joseph
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I made a change in address. This should get it. If not let me know.
http://sites.google.com/site/mdmet68/home/volvo-240-strut-notes
For the fun of Volvos,
Mike
--
'83 245 GLT, '92 245DL, '90 760 GLT
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Well guys, the 2-3/16" SKF hook spanner showed up today. I was so confident this thing was going to be a perfect fit because I measured the dia of the gland nut and that's very close to what it was (56mm). It was far too big - closer to 3-3/16". In fact the only measurement I could take of this thing to get 2-3/16 was diagonally from the tip of the tooth to the heel flat.
As far as I can tell, I measured it correctly and that's how these wrenches are sized. Mike, I used your tool number reference from McMaster-Carr to bring up their hook spanner page at, http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/117/2751/=bfnw8k
Thanks for that reference, Mike! The one you listed is a 2" to 4-3/4". I got lucky and found an adjustable 2" - 4-3/4" JH Williams #474 for $13 shipped on ebay. I hope I don't eat eBay crow again!!! Pipe wrench is next if this is a fail.
The SKF wrench is probably sized to match some kind of 2-3/16" gland nut or seal or whatnot. Otherwise a very nice quality forged piece! Definitely not a knockoff... but totally useless for this job. :(
Steve
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If you can get to the website, the document will need to be downloaded. It's a slow download though, 15 sec.
Mike
--
'83 245 GLT, '92 245DL, '90 760 GLT
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Mike,
Nice set of instructions... Thanks! What's the idea behind the two turnbuckles though? Does that just hold up the strut or does it keep it more steady than rope/wire/tie straps would?
So why does the book recommend doing front struts this way? Why couldn't I just take the whole strut assy out of the car? Is this supposed to be better for preserving the old alignment? I've separated the strut tube from the knuckle before - not a big deal.
It seems like a long way to force the control arm to rotate down - Doesn't Bentley's book recommend loosening the nuts for the bushings? On an Isuzu that I had, I needed to change the rear control arm bushings and they had a whole procedure for torquing the nuts to set the "trim height" of the car so the bushings would have zero pre-load with the weight on the wheels. It seemed like a hassle at the time, but probably extended the life of those bushings a bit.
Steve
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Thanks for clearing that up, Mike. I get it now... without the coil and strut bearing up there, there isn't anything to "hold it" for you. I imagine the turnbuckles are a bit more stable than the rope was. I might have some around here - otherwise I may just try cable ties or something.
"Scope creep" - I like that! Very true for shops (and customers) that really just want the job done leaving all other systems undisturbed. I can imagine a customer saying, "but i didn't pay you to work on the brakes."
I wish I had more money to spend at the moment, because I really want a new set of front brake hoses and front/rear control arm bushings. Now would be a really nice time to do them! We'll see... if I have to crack the brake lines open maybe I'll buck up for it.
I guess you put us right, Art... we are hobbyists after all. I bought my 245 for $360 almost 3 yrs ago with an overwhelming number of problems. It was supposed to be my backup car and my model airplane hauler. It has now displaced my other hobbies! I don't really "need" to do a single thing more to it for a while, but I just have more fun working on this car!
Thanks to all for the advice!
Steve
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I attach the two turnbuckles when removing the top nut, disassembling the coil spring, bearing plate, etc. Up to this point the strut assembly is held in place outside the wheel well using anything that works for you. I had used strong cable ties attached to the coil spring and up to the tower looped around a piece of wood. The cable ties can be easily adjusted. I installed the spring compressor with light compression to ease the strut assembly out from the wheel well.
I have limited shop space, that's why I prefer to do the strut replacement on the car.
Hope this explanation helps.
For the fun of Volvos,
Mike
--
'83 245 GLT, '92 245DL, '90 760 GLT
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Hi Steve,
Doing the struts on the car is a timesaver, that's all. Nothing wrong with taking them out; I've done them both ways, depending on whether I intended to open the brake system.
You're right, a fresh bushing will resist your attempt to move the control arm that far, and when the rear one is torqued, it should be done with the arm in its loaded attitude.
The "book" method keeps the job from scope creep, which can be bad for business sometimes. For example, calling a customer to let her know it will be another couple hundred because a bleeder screw broke. But for us hobbyists, we'd rather take care of everything that is needed.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
The journey of a thousand miles begins with a broken fan belt and leaky tire.
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It sounds like your working with the spring/strut under the fender.
When I did my front struts on my 91 I had the spring/strut laying down
and I used a large screwdriver and hammer and tapped the gland nut loose.
Then it was easy to remove with just my bare hands.
I installed Bilstein Touring Front Strut Inserts but I did not get the
ride I was hoping for. I can still feel the cracks in the road, but they
are great over speed bumps.
I hope you are you using a spring compressor, you can borrow the kit at Autozone.
Good luck on the project,
Joseph in NM
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Hi
This past Dec. I did the same job on a 90 244. Channel lock pliers budged one side. The other wouldn't at all. What worked was a hammer and drift.
I installed Sachs Super Touring struts-I did have the spacers on hand but didn't need them.
As far as the strut mounts go I have heard to stay away from everything but SKF and Volvo. Either way I think the SKF ones are a lot cheaper at Pelican Parts than eEuroparts. And I think Pelican Parts also gives you free shipping over $75.
Travis
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When you use your spanner wrench (hinged?), stick a conduit pipe over the handle as a cheater bar. I went to Lowe's and found a 6" length of pipe that would fit over the spanner wrench handle and added a pipe reducer to fit a smaller diameter conduit pipe. With PB Blaster, it's like cutting through butter to loosen the gland nut. Hopefully, you have a gland nut with four slots instead of two. To get the two slot design, I got another type of "spanner" wrench (not hinged) that has a small stub at each end. Both types of wrenches were used to get the gland nut.
Another tip: I used the spring compressor with light spring compression to swing the strut tube assembly out of the wheel well. Otherwise, it may be frustrating to lay pressure on the strut assembly and control arm just to get the strut assembly out of the wheel well.
For the fun of Volvos,
Mike
--
'83 245 GLT, '92 245DL, '90 760 GLT
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I always use a pipe wrench, though it does mar the nut a bit. There's a big difference b/t a pipe wrench and channellocks: Pipe wrench tightens as you twist, which channellocks are only held by your hand's pressure.
The few things I've had that were made by URO were cheap and junky. If it were me, I'd definitely go with SKF. You get what you pay for and you replace what you don't pay for far more often. That said, I haven't tried their strut tops.
Nate
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Thanks for the advice guys! I can't get any votes on the URO bearings, so I'm going with the SKF ones. I know you can sometimes get away with cheap stuff, but I can imagine the bearings they use may not be hardened, and a few good pothole hits over time might make them fall apart sooner than I need replacement struts. Point well taken!
Travis, thanks for the suggestion with Pelican. I had heard the name a long time ago but didn't know they also sold Volvo parts. They're about $10 cheaper per SKF strut top bearing. Joseph, thanks for the word of warning! I rented a worn-out set of spring compressors about 10yrs ago to do struts on my Mitsubishi and it almost cost me my little finger. The things didn't grab the springs, so when I was tightening them they were sliding around. I got the spring compressed very carefully, but (as always) when I installed the new strut it was shorter. I had to compress the spring more while it was off the strut. One compressor slipped and swung around to meet the other one while my little finger was in the way. I jumped and it grabbed the skin by my knuckle. That was a trip to the hospital and it took a year to get feeling back in my finger. Trust me, I know to be careful now! :)
Mike, thanks for the great tips! I do have the 4-slot nuts, but the hook wrench I got is a fixed 2-3/16" size (not hinged). It only has one tooth on it. It hasn't arrived yet so I don't know how it's going to fit. The handle seems kind of short, but I've got an assortment of steel pipe for the purpose!
Nate, in all my collection of odd tools I don't own a pipe wrench! Good point though. I should have bought one and tried it.
Steve
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Oh! To live where the roads aren't salted! :-)
With my came-from-Boston 240, heat, penetrating oil, and air tools couldn't get the gland nut off. It required the strut assembly to be removed from the car, placed on the ground in the jaws of a large pipe wrench, while I bounced my 200lbs. on another 24" pipe wrench.
The Ohio 740 required the same technique, except one gland nut came out with the threads from the inside of the strut tube. Had to visit the salvage yard for a new strut.
-Ryan
--
Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 324k, Dog-hauler
1990 245 DL 142k M47, E-codes, GT Sways/Braces, Dracos, A-cam
1990 744GLE 189K 16-valve
1991 745 GL 304k
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Agreed! Sometimes I think folks who live without road salt get bored with mere maintenance, moving on to upgrades and modifications to give them something to do on their cars. I like four seasons, but the old cars only enjoy three of them.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
Why do we leave cars worth thousands in our driveways and put our useless junk in the garage.
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Indeed!
They definitely do not enjoy that 4th season. The '90 245 pulled another fast one, when the M47 shift linkage came apart in December. So she got to sit out another salty season until I got around fixing it yesterday. :-)
-Ryan
--
Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 324k, Dog-hauler
1990 245 DL 142k M47, E-codes, GT Sways/Braces, Dracos, A-cam
1990 744GLE 189K 16-valve
1991 745 GL 304k
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Hi Art,
Ohhhhh... nice pics! I see what you mean by impact device! Yes, usually very effective. Nice hook spanner too... did you make that? The one I ordered is apparently an SKF, but it doesn't look like any other SKF tools I've seen which leads me to believe it may be a chinese copy. The seller had a 100% rating on ebay and he shipped it immediately and offered to buy it back if "he didn't represent it properly." He claims it is NOS, and he sells lots of stuff in that condition that's apparently still in original packaging. For $12 shipped, I decided to take the bait. I hope I won't be sorry, but I know I'm pushing my cheap luck.
The right tool for the job definitely makes the difference! They usually require no swear-words to work correctly. :)
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Make it? No. Cheap and "China" can be seen stamped on the jaw. This particular one was part of a set of 4 sold by Harbor Freight for $9.99, back when. I have several tools forged from melted Toyotas/Hondas/Tauruses (as my friend refers to steel in China) that continue to serve me well in this hobby. Most cost a tiny fraction of what a pro would pay the Snap-On man.
SKF brands the spanner wrench?? I was surprised to find they were making any more than bearings. Do you have an item number so we can view what you bought?
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Always keep your words soft and sweet, just in case you have to eat them.
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Art,
The one I got can be seen at:
http://cgi.ebay.com/SPANNER-WRENCH-FIXED-HEAD-HOOK-SIZE-2-3-16-SKF-/370486642479?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5642b9872f
If this doesn't work, search "hook spanner" or "skf hook spanner" and you'll see it listed. He had 3 of them when I ordered it. Google searching SKF hook spanner yields pics of tools that look much better in terms of quality, but again he claimed it was new-old-stock. We'll see.
I had a friend who had a full complement of SKF tools back in the day. He used to be an auto mechanic and I asked him about SKF. I think he told me they were like a "budget Matco." That was over 10 years ago. I know they've been making bearings for a million years, and I haven't really met anyone else who had their tools since so I kind-of forgot about them myself.
I used to work for a company that had factories in China. We wrote reports all the time trying to get them to obey the rules of alloying and heat treating. They just don't know metallurgy. My friends and I called their special brand of metal, "Chinesium." Or, if it was supposed to be titanium, "Chi-tanium."
I'll let you guys know how the "SKF" hook wrench works.
Steve
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Oh, whoops! I just remembered... It wasn't SKF my pal had, It was S&K tools. :) My flawed memory, I guess!
Steve
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