This has probably been beaten to death, but I can't seem to find the information in the files. Is there a modern equivalent to color #97? If not, does someone know what the mixture formula would be? I am detailing the engine bay, and will also be doing some spot painting on the body, which was recently painted by the PO, with whom I have been uable to get in touch.

Thanks,

Kent

You really need to get in touch with PO to find what paint system he used. How well does it seem to match the under hood colour?
#97 Gul 1967-69 Du Pont Imlar BS495
#97 Sand Yellow Ault & Wiborg 28928 Available as Gipgloss, Aultrfast, Aultraspeed 2
#97 Sand Yellow (Clean yellow shade) Ault & Wiborg 34597 Available as Gipgloss, Aultrafast
#97 Sand Yellow (Deep Yellow shade) Ault & Wiborg 29012 Available as Gipgloss, Auitrafast
Du Pont and Ault & Wiborg books both dated 1989 so actual availability unknown but there might be enough information there to cross over to some later books at a well established (old) paint supplier.
Other wise they should be able to read your new paint with a scanner to get close enough for doing under the hood.

Derek,

For some reason, your posts are "ignored" in my list. Could you email direct? waddl396-volvo@yahoo.com

Thanks,

Kent

Do you have the similar paint code info for 1966-69 colour #91 Light Green?
Thanks, Amazon66

#91 Ljusgron 1965-67 Du Pont BS144 Imlar
#91 Light Green 1964 (says in book but I think the other dates are more accurate. Possibly even later if Canadian built. as there were some 123GT's built there in that colour. I also have a friend in Holland with a late Wagon this colour and that is one with the odd split braking system, so '67ish)
A&W code 30048 Available in Gipgloss, Aultrafast. No shades listed.

I hope that helps.

There are a few avenues to try out. I probably have color formulas for what ever that color is, but, there is no cross over from super old to the new style paints. I encountered this when painting a 914-6. I called the paint co in ohio and asked the paint experts. This was the response.

You can take a sample color and have them match it. A large paint store will have a paint analyzer and can come up with a close formula.

Or, you can look through paint books to find something close. We used glasurit and they have a system of sprayed out chips with variations of every color. For example the white on a taurus has 6 variations of white you can pick from.

Or you can just go into the paint store and pick a color that is close. That was the option the 914-6 guy opted for. Having a modern code makes it much easier to get paint when you need some.

There is a possibility there is a factory pak from glasurit in europe, but that is a bit extreme. It would be enamel and it's a pain to shoot and it sticks to everything!

This is a PPG deck for mazda from the 90's. It just happened to be sitting here next to the computer.

Dinahmoe,

I spent a bit of time surfing and came up with a company that might have the paint.

http://www.tcpglobal.com/autocolorlibrary/aclchip.aspx?image=1968-volvo-pg02.jpg

I have not contacted them, but they do claim to have all colors??? I will post if I have any success...

Kent

I probably have those sheets too. PPG is the company I called. Thing is with paint, you want to use something friendly and familiar. Would you know if they just picked something close? Or they actually cross matched an old formula to new paint? Are they going to make it in lacquer or basecoat or alkyd enamel? Any shop with a mixing bench has "all colors too". While using glasurit, they updated the tints and formulas 3 times, I don't even know what they are on now. But, every time they do, the old paints don't exactly match perfect. They always assume tinting to make a "match". BTW, Ins Co's do not pay to match paint.

You have to know what kind of paint you want to use also. This subject is way too deep for discussion here. But trust me, what I wrote above is your best bet. I don't know what town you are in, but there has to be a jobber near you. I am partial to PPG, It is by far the best all around paint. I would use single stage deltron acrylic urethane on it. Reason, it is less expensive, easy to use, and does not need clear top coat, and is very durable. A pint will do engine bay. Generally $50 for the pint, add for hardener and reducer. It mixes 1:1:.5 there is a less costly version of ppg called shopline, almost half the price. I've been using the base and it's good stuff.

The last paint on earth I would ever use it dupont, it's awful stuff. Paint doesn't know what car it's on, if you pick a vw color it will look like a Volvo color. I have all my color charts and formulas put away so i can't reference anything. I do have ppg and glasurit software here, maybe diamont too, I think it's on the glasurit disc as they are all under the basf banner. Anyway, the software will reference a chip if you need to go out and match it to the car.

Di,

Thanks, big time!! I have always heard that PPG is really the way to go. Yes, we do have a pretty good body shop here in town, and they usually do pretty good work. But even in this little town they charge $$$$$$$$$. I was thinking of doing all of the prep work, and having a fella I know come to my shop and shoot the paint. I don't want to belittle the project, but this is, after all under the hood, on what is going to be a daily driver and drive-and-dust fun car. I am probably spending way too much time on this, but... When I get done with it, I would like not to be ashamed when I pop the hood. As I get closer to painting, I will be in touch.

Thanks again,

Kent

This is the start of my bay. This gives a bit about undercoats. They are almost as important as the top coats. Every peeler you have seen, is a result of mismatched undercoats, someone trying to cut corners or costs.

My bay was bad, like every other bit of this car.
we spent days inside blasting and cleaning.
it got Por 15
a mist coat of kondar prime
full coats of kondar once fully dry
spot prime with diamont dp21 tintable prime
more dp21 finally some color
and clears, the first stuff was bad, I'm trying to use up stuff I've had on hand for many years.

In the ppg world, I would recommend using DP40, it's a light green epoxy prime as an undercoat. I'm pretty sure you can wet on wet it. (spray over without full dry time) Why? undercoats promote adhesion and provide a bridge from old substrates to new. They help color holdout and durability. I used deltron on my friends lawn trucks subject to a ton of chemicals, and held up for years with no issues. You can even wash it with acetone with no problems.

Well, I may have a solution - using your information the local automotive parts store may be able to have the paint made up and put into spray cans. The estimate at this point is around $15 per can, which is really not that unreasonable. I will follow your advise concering the undercoats. I started to wet sand the wheel wells last night with good success. I will, of course, have to take all of the paraphernalia off the left wheel well, but will be leaving the fan housing on the fire wall, etc. Just mask those items and paint them black at a later date.

The wet sanding took me back to the time I was about 14-15 years old when a buddy and I used to prep cars for his father, the Ford dealer. He would give us an old beater and we would rebuild the engine, and then sand out all of the chips in the paint - the local paint shop would do the paint. About the time we thought we were kings of the road, the father would get the car sold and we would have to start all over again. Cheap labor, but we loved those old cars. The last one we did was a 1958 Ford Fairlane with a 352 cu. in. police interceptor engine. We tuned that baby to a fair-thee-well, got the exterior painted in light blue and white, then added a sparkplug to the exhaust pipe. When we flipped the switch to the sparkplug, you could hear and see us coming for miles!!!! At the speeds we drove, I am lucky to still be alive...

Kent

Ahh spray cans! The bane of our industry! In order for a spray can to work, the paint has to be super thin or it will clog the nozzle. That will result in a lot of work and no film build. Base coat can be sprayed from a "can", primes and anything with any build can't. Certainly not anything hardened. They are likely talking about a pre-val, it's ok for small projects, not an engine bay.

I've been real happy with this place for tools I got a mountain prime gun from them, it's chinese but it's not bad. Hell of a lot less than a sata.

Again, types of paint. All modern paint is catalyzed to provide ease of use and durability. Factory paint is just cheap enamel, but it is baked at 400+ degrees for 20 to 30 minutes. The new stuff is also forced dried at about 175 or so for 20 to 30 minutes. (it can also be air dried with no loss of durability) There is no cheap solution for auto paint, all you can do is search out and find the best deals. There is a line of "cheap" paint, I wouldn't use, but I have a friend who does.
Autobody tool mart is another mail order jobber. Look in paints and click transpar. They are like tcp global, but they used to send out catalogs to every shop in the country.

Anyway,
Lacquer, has virtually no place in refinishing, but it is very easy to use, poor durability
enamels, almost never used except for bridges and construction equipment.
Acrylic enamels, still used, cheap, so so durability
Acrylic and polyester urethanes, are widely used but are being phased out
Basecoat, is a lacquer like color layer that must be topcoated with a hardened clear
and finally the newest is water borne and uv cured, this is to reduce solvents released into the environment.
Single stage means one application
two stage means 2 applications, such as basecoat / clearcoat
Tricoat is basecoat with a candy or pearl overcoat and clearcoat

The way I would go, prime with dp4o and top coat with single stage deltron. We would never wet sand with paper inside an engine bay, we would use a red or grey scratch pad with sanding soap. Red for prime, grey for color. Presta makes my favorite stuff, there are lots, some good and some useless. This stuff is mostly for plastic bumpers, but is really good for old substrates in good condition.

The reason I say single stage, is because it is not a metallic color. Clear adds UV protection, but not needed under hood.