Replaced my oil trap this weekend and my oil leaks have stopped (740 Turbo wagon 1986 - 211k). Yes! Couldn't have done it without Brickboard.

I read mixed reviews of aftermarket oil traps (aka breather box) and thought it would be best to go OEM. My search for a low price turned up this ebay item "1306398 OIL TRAP AQ131A VOLVO PENTA". Mmmm. The same part interchanges with Volvo boat engines? Sure enough, a search found Volvo Penta store has it for $25! (http://www.volvopentastore.com/Cylinder-Block/dm/store_id.366--view_id.320836)

That's less than half of dealer price $57 (Jim Fischer).

The only drawback was slow delivery, well over 12 days. Took about 6 days to fill order. Volvo Penta store uses iboat.com to fill orders.

Item was genuine with Volvo labels on plastic bag and parts (ordered O-ring also).

The install went smooth with a 13mm universal socket and a 10" extension (both worth the cost).

Ironically, the hose replacement has been a pain. The IPD hose pictured is *not* what they offer. It's actually a gray cloth braided hose that fits tight and most irritatingly is *too* flexible. Some rigidity is good to attach hose to nipples and y-joint and the IPD hose doesn't offer that. Otherwise hose is perfectly good quality - apparently hard to source I learned, as IPD went out of their way to make sure I was getting what I thought was.

I'm going to check out what the dealer has; it's priced by centimeter, around $2 per cm (if I recall right!) If it's a more rigid hose I'll buy it because I'll feel confident it's all the way on the nipples.

DaN

I'm about to service my oil box and flame trap for the first time...am a little nervous about that hose that goes into the oil pan. I've printed out the FAQ info about the trap and box but would appreciate any advice from anyone.

I bought a new breather box from FCP, but now I'm wondering if I should install it or try to clean out the one currently installed, assuming that one is OEM and isn't cracked.


--
Mike F - 1984 244 DL - 312,000 miles
Original engine, transmission, drive train, starter
Undergoing reconstructive surgery with POR-15

Oil pan hose: I didn't have problems with it, I cleaned around it and it didn't seem to move easily. However, I heeded the warning to not disturb it, and without warning I would have tried to pull it out(!) glad I didn't...

Oil trap: I would go new part over cleaning. I'm not sure how the 244 accessibility compares to 740 (suggest this question in that forum). Although mine is hidden, I could reach under the intake manifold with my long arms - my point being, if new part leaks in a year would you mind doing it again? or is it better to return oil trap to FCP and get genuine?

Universal-joint socket and extension bar (10") made my job a breeze.

I think the 240 may allow greater accessibility than a 740. I plan to remove the air intake hose and AMM for an easier job. I'm also going to install ipd's flame trap relocater while I'm in there.

Thanks for the info. I always get leery when tasking myself on something I've never done before. Seems pretty straight-forward, but I never underestimate my ability to screw things up.
--
Mike F - 1984 244 DL - 312,000 miles
Original engine, transmission, drive train, starter
Undergoing reconstructive surgery with POR-15

I've used a length of 5/8" ID fuel line hose for years and it's worked just fine. You will need a couple of hose clamps though.

Thanks - I'll look into this solution

I decided to go OEM - Turns out the hose is 14mm ID instead of the 13mm that IPD stocks as of today. Explains why the fit was too tight. 14mm is easier to install and still very snug. Cost is by the 1/10 of a meter (10cm) at $2.80 or $28 per meter.

To the FAQ...
Steve
--
See the 700/900 "FAQ" at the menu bar top screen left side.

Excellent. I was going to order one for an upcoming major service, so this is timely too.

Info to FAQ? that's cool! (oops should be reply to Steve)